Question about wheel chocks and flush mount D rings.

[rebar]

I just bought a toyhauler but it wasn't set up to strap down 2 bikes. I need to install more tiedown points and wheel chocks and I want it to look clean when the wheel chocks are removed. Maybe threaded inserts for the wheel chocks instead of just wood screws.? http://www.lakesidebilliardsupply.com/threadedtnuts.jpg
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/9030-HD/14-20-Short-Flanged-Hex-Drive-Threaded-Inserts

And can any one weigh in on E-track? http://www.ericksonmfg.com/products/oTrackeTrackAnchors/eTrack.html

As a alternative to more Drings? http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Cargo-Trailer-D-Rings-Haulers/dp/B0043000G2

 

[PATMAX]

Yeow! Wood screws?! Bro I would not trust that. The D rings should also find a hard point to mount into. You could back up your plywood floor with 6x6 square 1/8 or 1/4 inch plate under the floor and bolt into that. I see disaster in your future otherwise heck, I bet you could pull out your D rings just strapping down the bike let alone the movement of stop and go. Over build is the way

 

[Redbone]

Definately whatever you use to strap your bike to should be through bolted like Patmax said. I have never seen it but having threaded inserts for the wheel chocks seems like a good idea as long as they are again secured through to the frame or another solid point. I used to transport speciality hospital beds, some that weighed 2200 lbs(and on wheels), and e-track held those inplace w/ 2 straps. Of course the e track was through bolted to the wall of the truck.

 

[one2dmax]

The Etrack choks we sell (made by Pingle) work very well and have hauled multiple bikes all over the states! Plenty of guys have seen our trailer in action and there should be pics around here somewhere showing it full lol.

Sean

 

[MichMax10]

I use a condour wheel chock bolted to a cross member of the trailer, I have about 40 foot of E track in my 14 foot trailer , the E track is bolted down using 1/4 20 grade 8 in every other hole of track with nylock nut and a 2inch fender washer underneath , track holes hit cross member every 2 foot also , i use the 6k e track loop to hold bike down , with 2 straps at each corner to a different loop ,I'd rather be over tied down then my bikes bouncing around in trailer, I'd hate to get someplace and see my bike or one of a friends laying on each other

 

[rebar]

Yeow! Wood screws?! Bro I would not trust that. Over build is the way

Thanks..
Wood screws.. Scratch that..

The E-tracks are nice. But unless I router a grove for it to sit down in, we would be tripping on the center track.

Im tempted to install coupling nuts underneath secured between the 12" o.c. joists and thread in tiedown eye bolts from above. It wouldn't be as versatile as the E-tracks. But it could disappear by unthreading the eye bolts. Cant decide..

You guys think if I hit the steel or aluminum tubing, not the I joists, it would be thick enough to tap for a tie-down eye bolt?

This or this would be sweet!

 

[Fire-medic]

I have used the same ANCRA tiedowns for decades, moving them from vehicle to vehicle. They are great, low-profile and you can get the track strips too for versatality in mounting.

http://www.amazon.com/Ancra-Tiedowns-Secur--Capacity-Down/dp/B0040DH25O/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1334027071&sr=1-4

Spread the load w/back-up plates, through-bolt (w/rated machine screws & nylock nuts) as has been mentioned, and unless you invert the vehicle or tip-over the trailer, you should be good to go, when used with a good securely-mounted (in the same through-bolted fashion) front wheel chock. Secure the bikes with a min. 4 straps, use something like a Canyon Dancer if it's a sport bike, or some rated soft-double-looped ties to provide places away from bodywork for the adjustable straps to attach to them.

 

[Redbone]

You mentioned that you didn't want to be tripping on the tiedowns so I thought these may fit the bill. Once you figure out when you want them would be easier to countersink these than E track.
http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-D-Ring-Tiedown-Backing-Plate/dp/B002WPXVC0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_8

 

[rebar]

Many good suggestions here.. Thanks! I'm leaning toward Fire-medic's recommendation of the ANCRA tie-downs because I could land both bolts through each side of the I beam joist's below unlike the 4 bolt Drings. But I really like the pit bull strapless set-up the most except they don't make them for the Vmax or DRZ I have. Vmax could except a 11/32 rod through the rear axle but Im not sure that's strong enough.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwaEABfg2rA

I have used the same ANCRA tiedowns for decades, moving them from vehicle to vehicle. They are great, low-profile and you can get the track strips too for versatality in mounting.

http://www.amazon.com/Ancra-Tiedowns-Secur--Capacity-Down/dp/B0040DH25O/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1334027071&sr=1-4

.

 

[jfeagins]

I have 3 E-tracks mounted in my toyhauler and tripping over them isn't a problem if you remover the tie-down rings when parked. I used wood screws to mount the -track and at times haul two Honda Runes on board without ever so much as loosening a single screw.

I used removeable style Pingel wheel chocks and they are definitely through-bolted into the floor. When removed, there's only the small, flat hardware left on the floor, and it's also NOT a problem for tripping over. These stick up less than stepping onto a rug you may have lying around some place. Just need to dismantle the bottom of the toyhauler temporarily enough to reach up to get the washers and nuts on the bottom of the bolts- and to be sure not to drill into any fuel or water tanks that might be mounted up under there.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pingel-Remo...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2315076815&vxp=mtr

 

[Fire-medic]

I use a Pingel removable front chock and also have a Moose removable chock on my open trailer. Any cushioning material may be secured w/screws, but if you expect to provide the most-secure method of affixing your anchors, whatever the style, through-bolting and backer plates are the safest way to go. Remember those old b & w WWII submarine movies where the rivets start popping-loose on the bulkheads because they went too-deep? That's what I envision happening to the wood screws-'pop-pop-pop-pop...' when you really need the bike secure because you need to slam-on the brakes because some stupid driver stops dead in the road, or cuts you off towing your bike, or turns left in-front of you. Give yourself the best method of secure attachment to a structural member, such-as a metal crossmember, and don't rely on some wood screws into the floor sheathing. Just think of your ride toppling-over when you panic-stop or have to swerve suddenly. Plan for the worst-case, within reason. Obviously an 18 wheeler hitting you head-on, it "ain't gonna matter!"

I used to ride my Yamaha RT-2 dirtbike w/a Maico guy and he hauled his bike in the back of his van using the ANCRA removable rings and two double-hook turnbuckles. He hooked one end of a turnbuckle to the ANCRA and the other to the frame member/footpeg ass'y. He'd sit on the bike, reach-down and affix the turnbuckles. When he hopped-off, the suspension would unload and tighten-up holding the turnbuckles in-place. It worked well for a 220 lb dirtbike but I am not recommending it for the VMax!

 

[a113ycat]

^^^^+1 E Tracks are the way to go if you are hauling bikes.

 

[jfeagins]

Honda Runes weigh in excess of 800lbs each + up to 6.2gal of gas. I've had to apply a lot of brakes trying to avoid idiots on the hwy before, and never pulled a single wood screw, not even the slightest. I did manage to break off a hardened allen head bolt holding together one Pingel chock one time, but I didn't have any tie-downs running rear-ward on that trip to help hold the bikes from pitching forward on decelertion. With E-track, there's wood screws every few inches and on both sides of the track. The tracks run nearly the entire length of the garage in the RV. I'm not sure what leverage would be required to pull that many screws, but I'm not likely to live long enough to witness it.

 

[Fire-medic]

Okay, I surrender, after all twenty 100-lb. midgets can walk all-over eight 250-lb. NFL players in a one-ton tug of war!

:bang head::ummm::confused2::biglaugh: