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Well I seem t have the bike running ok everywhere except for the idle. I'm starting to think I might be getting too picky so I made a video of the bike idling with a sync tool attached. The setup is stage 7 needles, 152.5 mains, and v-boost removed. Can you guys take a look at the video and comment on how you think it's idling?
http://youtu.be/GwABUek55T0

Thanks

Joe
 
It's hard to sync like that without boost. The idle will be rough with each cylinder running on 2 carbs
 
with no vboost you need a device like the weber to sync the carbs....
 
That idle sounds "close to normal" for open Vboost. Maybe in need of a good synch or something but with open Vboost the idle is "Good Rough" sounding much more lopey since the cylinders are exposed to the overlap effects of the cams more.

You can install just the Vboost manifold crossovers and cable without the controller & servo and keep it manually held open with a lawnmower type "cable stop" set screw which lets you easily close it for synching. The cable stop screw is just a thing that goes on the cable and lets you pull it open and pinch it at the end of the cable housing to hold it open...

With Vboost open the normal sync tool absolutely will not yield meaningful results.

You can also synch it "manually" with a feeler of some sort and get it pretty close, I've done that for years before buying a motion-pro and in spite of others experience the manual synch was just fine in my book, if it runs on all cylinders at an even lower than normal idle I feel it's pretty well synched...The more the butterflies open the less synch means, as the % differences between carbs (A fixed value due to mechanical linkage) becomes an increasingly smaller % of overall throttle opening the synch error becomes less significant so due to that I consider the idle test the most effective as far as how much the synch error is going to effect or hamper things......The wider the butterflies open the less synch matters......
 
That idle sounds "close to normal" for open Vboost. Maybe in need of a good synch or something but with open Vboost the idle is "Good Rough" sounding much more lopey since the cylinders are exposed to the overlap effects of the cams more.

You can install just the Vboost manifold crossovers and cable without the controller & servo and keep it manually held open with a lawnmower type "cable stop" set screw which lets you easily close it for synching. The cable stop screw is just a thing that goes on the cable and lets you pull it open and pinch it at the end of the cable housing to hold it open...

With Vboost open the normal sync tool absolutely will not yield meaningful results.

You can also synch it "manually" with a feeler of some sort and get it pretty close, I've done that for years before buying a motion-pro and in spite of others experience the manual synch was just fine in my book, if it runs on all cylinders at an even lower than normal idle I feel it's pretty well synched...The more the butterflies open the less synch means, as the % differences between carbs (A fixed value due to mechanical linkage) becomes an increasingly smaller % of overall throttle opening the synch error becomes less significant so due to that I consider the idle test the most effective as far as how much the synch error is going to effect or hamper things......The wider the butterflies open the less synch matters......


Yea, what he said.:rofl_200:
 
I finished putting all of the bits for the v-boost back on the bike and hooked up the sync tool. Wow. Not even close to being in sync! Sync'd the carbs and I feel I'm getting much closer. The transition from idle to off idle is a lot better. Not perfect but certainly better.

I'm feeling like I will be an expert with these carbs by 2018 or so lol
 
Make sure you sync your vboost. It makes a pretty good difference!
 
Quickly:
Provided you have a full header and float levels are properly set use 147.5-150 mains (smaller then what comes in the kit), needle on 3rd clip (may be able to go leaner then this but rarely need to be richer) and should be good to go.
 
Never heard of synching your vboost. How does one do that?
Basically one screw syncs a pair of butterflies to the other pair. Then the final screw opens them up all the same so that they're all full open. I'll scan a couple pages from my manual that shows how it's done.

Mark

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 

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