Stock air box vs pods

[Constantinos]

Story goes something like this....previous owner installed some chinese made pods and threw the air box away. He said he rejetted the carbs and the bike has the stock exhausts. The bike runs ok but only made 100 hp on the rear wheel when dynod. Given the roller was not very accurate because the guy did not tie down the rear of the bike and the rear wheel was turning freely on the roller.

It seems to me that if I buy a stock air box and a K&N filter I will defo see some gains over what is installed right now. Am I right in thinking about this? He gave me no extra info on the rejetting part.

 

[marsmax85]

Mr Morley can fix you up !!

 

[Fire-medic]

A stock VMax sould make in the vicinity of 110 rwhp if it's in good shape, some a bit more, some a bit less. The magazines sometimes seem to get slightly better results, running closer to another 8% maybe. So say that your bike is a representative example, something in that range should be about right. Anyone who runs a bike w/120+ rwhp probably has some work done to it.

If your bike isn't getting a good mixture because of air leaks and/or an excessively lean/rich condition, then there is power to be had. If you can return to the stock baseline cheaply, you may find you get some 'lost' horsepower. Otherwise, I would want to think of opening the carbs to see what's been changed in the jetting (read, 'ALL the jetting') for instance, do your diaphragm slides have holes drilled in the bottom of the plastic? Are your main jets 147.5? Do the needles appear to be really skinny, more-so than a toothpick for about 1/3 their length? Do you have a hose running from your oil filler cap to a black medicine-bottle looking thing, and more hoses running out of the other end? If yes, then you may have a Dynojet Stage 7 kit. That requires a free-flowing exhaust to make its designed h.p.

I would say if you can find out what you have first, then decide what you want to do. You might decide to have someone like Dannymax do your carbs, fit an aftermarket 4/1 or more-flow capable 4/2 (Mark's or UFO, the Kerker 4/1 requires you to remove your centerstand & to cut its mounts) and maybe an aftermarket ignition for its tunability and rev limiter. Then you could be at the upper end of the h.p. range, and maybe break into the 120's or even higher, as that's what a lot of guys seem to get.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

leave the pods and rejet it for stage 7. I happen to have a new set of stage 7 jets for sale... LOL. i can even get you a stainless braided breather if you will.

 

[Constantinos]

leave the pods and rejet it for stage 7. I happen to have a new set of stage 7 jets for sale... LOL. i can even get you a stainless braided breather if you will.

Pm me a price....but will the stage 7 jets give me more hp with the stock exhaust?

 

[Traumahawk]

Pm me a price....but will the stage 7 jets give me more hp with the stock exhaust?

No....to get full potential of the stage 7 jets (bigger than stock) you will need an aftermarket exhaust. More fuel in, you need a better exhaust to get more gases out.

 

[leecifer]

Maybe the previous owner had aftermarket exhuast on it then sold them and put stock back on it when he sold the bike to you? Exhaust is easily removed for resale a stage 7setup is harder to put back to stock. Just a thought.

 

[Constantinos]

Ok talked to previous owner on the phone.....the needles are from the dynojet stage 7 kit and the pods are k&n....BUT the jets are stock and the exhaust is stock....as it stands, i think I am loosing the full potential of even a stock setting. Best thing is to put 147,5 jets and an aftermarket exhaust. Is that right or am I missing something?

 

[Traumahawk]

Well it actually depends on whats runs best....but with aftermarket exhaust, and stage 7 needles, the jets would be 147.5 to 155's.

 

[one2dmax]

For stock exhaust use the stock airbox and 150 main jets. (Stock Needles)
For slip-ons use 150 or 147.5 main jets (and still stock airbox) (Stock Needles)
For full headers you can use the pods (with 147.5-150 mains) or our Muscle jet kit.

 

[Constantinos]

For stock exhaust use the stock airbox and 150 main jets. (Stock Needles)
For slip-ons use 150 or 147.5 main jets (and still stock airbox) (Stock Needles)
For full headers you can use the pods (with 147.5-150 mains) or our Muscle jet kit.

Stock exhaust and jets but stage 7 needles....would it prform better with pods or stock airbox?

 

[VMAX1260]

Does your bike has V-Boost ?

 

[Constantinos]

Does your bike has V-Boost ?

Yes

 

[one2dmax]

Stock airbox. It's one thing to increase the ability to breath in but if you can't expell it you are going to "back up" the system. For a good example:
Inhale with your mouth open as far as you can then close your lips mostly and expell it. Then inhale and exhale with the same opening (the smaller one). Now, Inhale with the lips mostly closed and exhaust with it open (like adding a full exhaust). Then finally inhale and exhale with your mouth as far open as you can.

If you can't get the air out there is no reason to bring it in at a faster rate.

 

[VMAX1260]

on the dyno in what rpm did your bike started to lose power and what rpm was the peak power ?

 

[Constantinos]

on the dyno in what rpm did your bike started to lose power and what rpm was the peak power ?

Started to lose power at 5400 rpm, (hp was at 75) vboost kicked in peaked at 6500 (100 hp) and remained constant there at higher rpms.

 

[VMAX1260]

Started to lose power at 5400 rpm, (hp was at 75) vboost kicked in peaked at 6500 (100 hp) and remained constant there at higher rpms.

this gonna sound silly but i have to tell it lol.
i had when i run stock carbs the same problem. tryied everything cleaned the carbs thousands of time jetting. nothing helped.
ok now the silly thing (which was my problem)

it was the grip. the sun melted the glue underneath the grip and when i opened the throttle all the way (which made me feel i was in full power) cause of the melted glue ,the throttle wasnt fully opened. so make a test.
try to close the throttle. if the grip isnt firmly sticked to the throttle and keeps turning there is your problem. if you have a problem understanding what i m saying i can write it in Greek .
please try that, this problem to be solved passsed over a month

 

[Constantinos]

this gonna sound silly but i have to tell it lol.
i had when i run stock carbs the same problem. tryied everything cleaned the carbs thousands of time jetting. nothing helped.
ok now the silly thing (which was my problem)

it was the grip. the sun melted the glue underneath the grip and when i opened the throttle all the way (which made me feel i was in full power) cause of the melted glue ,the throttle wasnt fully opened. so make a test.
try to close the throttle. if the grip isnt firmly sticked to the throttle and keeps turning there is your problem. if you have a problem understanding what i m saying i can write it in Greek .
please try that, this problem to be solved passsed over a month

That's ok I got it :biglaugh: I will look into it but I am pretty sure that it is not the grip. But in the case that the grip is fine would you advise to go back to the stock airbox as a means of gaining the lost power? I am not really planning to go drag racing or something....

 

[Itgoes]

You never no.

When I was buying one of my Gen 1's after a lot of asking I finally got out of the owner why he was selling it. He wasn't happy with the performance after installing a Kerker pipe with a race baffle and flat-side carbs. It ran perfectly....no misses and smooth......but it really didn't pull any harder than the stock Vmax I had at home.

I bought it for a great price and when I got it home the next day the very first thing I found was that the slides on the carbs were only opening about 85%. I adjusted them to go wide open and HOLY smokes, it was a different bike.

 

[Dr.n2o]

Story goes something like this....previous owner installed some chinese made pods and threw the air box away. He said he rejetted the carbs and the bike has the stock exhausts. The bike runs ok but only made 100 hp on the rear wheel when dynod. Given the roller was not very accurate because the guy did not tie down the rear of the bike and the rear wheel was turning freely on the roller.

It seems to me that if I buy a stock air box and a K&N filter I will defo see some gains over what is installed right now. Am I right in thinking about this? He gave me no extra info on the rejetting part.

You HAVE to tie the back of the bike down for accurate readings. Tire probably spun on the roller.