ghostntheshell
Well-Known Member
Would you stop posting and don't come back until you've bought it!!!
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buy extreme q vaporizer
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buy extreme q vaporizer
Last edited:
Thinking of buying, please help!!
- Thread starter billydroveit
- Start date
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billydroveit
Well-Known Member
Would you stop posting and don't come back until you've bought it!!!
i'm waiting for the guy to call me!!:bang head:
4gasem
Well-Known Member
couple hundred! You can rebuild the slave as well...
Make sure you ONLY buy from Gary McCoy at Mondak Motorsports. The link is above under the VMF links button. Tell him you're a VMF member.
He's the cheapest bar none!
I think my new master cost 75 bucks.
Chris
billydroveit
Well-Known Member
ok fellas, the deal is struck, i pick it up on sunday. It's been dropped twice, but from a standing point. a ding here and there and one toush up on the paint on teh tank...nothing major. Also the air scoop under the key is scratched up froma keychain. I wouldd post pictures but i just don't have time yet! Here's the best of the deal...I asked him how firm he was on teh price...he said make ma a cash offer. So 500 cash takes the cake!
I will absolutely use your recommendation for parts! What's the best way to diagnose it? I also promise to post pics when i get more time.
THank you all for your input and helping me acquire my first MAX. THe information found on site such as this is absolutely invaluable.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
I bought a non-running '86 Max for $650 just to part it out!
That's an absolute bargain! It's possible you have a bad M/C, a bad line, or a bad S/C.
I have all 3 available on my spare bike still, two of them are on fleaBay. They all work fine, but the M/C is off a Venture, so it's got crappy chrome finish and could do with a paint job. Also its fluid level window is broken and has been repaired with JB Weld, so it looks crap but it works fine.
Check 'em out..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280372820210&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...385770260&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT
Also, when it gets to bleeding the clutch on a Max, you will find that the normal bleeding technique used on brakes does not work, which may be the only problem your seller actually has LOL.. You need to either reverse-bleed using a syringe connected to the bleeding nipple, or get yerself a MightyVac.
That's an absolute bargain! It's possible you have a bad M/C, a bad line, or a bad S/C.
I have all 3 available on my spare bike still, two of them are on fleaBay. They all work fine, but the M/C is off a Venture, so it's got crappy chrome finish and could do with a paint job. Also its fluid level window is broken and has been repaired with JB Weld, so it looks crap but it works fine.
Check 'em out..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280372820210&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...385770260&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT
Also, when it gets to bleeding the clutch on a Max, you will find that the normal bleeding technique used on brakes does not work, which may be the only problem your seller actually has LOL.. You need to either reverse-bleed using a syringe connected to the bleeding nipple, or get yerself a MightyVac.
billydroveit
Well-Known Member
When i get it home i'll fill the master if it's low, vac bleed it and go from there. Do you still have slave cyl? I'm guessing the slave but I didn't look tthat closely while i was there. I'm getting anxious.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Ya the slave is still there - I haven't taken the motor out yet so all parts are still in it. I still think it's more likely for the line to fail than either the M/C or S/C, or even funnier, the guy tried bleeding like brakes, couldn't do it, and says it's gone :clapping:
billydroveit
Well-Known Member
I dudnno... he is a heavy truck mechanic, may not have the patients to work with it...but I do. Firts thing on the adjenda wen i get it home is to check on the clutch master. It needs new rear brakes..and the fronts are close behind.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
do you mean just pads or rotors too?
Best pads bar none are EBC HH - a world of difference. As ever, best prices comes from Gary McCoy @ Mondak, just mention this site :clapping:
billydroveit
Well-Known Member
The rotors don't look great, but they;re not bad. I may just put pads on it and see what happens. Rotors don't look easy to change, and they're probly not cheap.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Rotors aren't hard to change at all - as long as you have an impact driver with the right size allen bit to break those bolts loose. OEM are pretty expensive, but remember we get great prices from our friend Gary McCoy.
I replaced mine with wave rotors from fleaBay - only about $150 a pair, which wasn't too bad!
I replaced mine with wave rotors from fleaBay - only about $150 a pair, which wasn't too bad!
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billydroveit
Well-Known Member
Ok, So i have the bike home now! Pics to follow soon.
My question now is the engine runs great but makes a knocking/tapping sounds coming from teh lower front half of the clutch handle side of the motor. It only happens on a rev up? I can hold it at pretty much any RPM and it's quiet, but if i snap the throttle it taps. Seems to get quieter at it warms up. Any ideas? Could this be the V Boost valve rattle, or something stupid? 31000 miles on it.
My question now is the engine runs great but makes a knocking/tapping sounds coming from teh lower front half of the clutch handle side of the motor. It only happens on a rev up? I can hold it at pretty much any RPM and it's quiet, but if i snap the throttle it taps. Seems to get quieter at it warms up. Any ideas? Could this be the V Boost valve rattle, or something stupid? 31000 miles on it.
