Trouble with Neutral...

[dingy]

So would this be applicable to a 2006?

Yes, all 1st gen VMax's have same arrangement.

Gary

 

[johnblaid]

I just bought an 86 V-Max and this drives me crazy. I changed the oil using Mobil 1 high performance MC full synthetic oil and it did not help a bit.

 

[naughtyG]

I just bought an 86 V-Max and this drives me crazy. I changed the oil using Mobil 1 high performance MC full synthetic oil and it did not help a bit.

See my post below...

here is THE way of getting into neutral easily on Vmax:

- engine running, stopped in 1st gear
- let the clutch out just enough for the bike to start creeping
- at the same time push up the shift lever up lightly with your foot
- pops into neutral

works EVERY time, on every Vmax I've ever ridden!

 

[alorio1]

I have heard , but never experienced this problem but if the steels or the friction plates are not installed correctly the clutch will not disengage properly. The steels have a slight rounded edge which should all face the same way and checked for warpage. The frictions sould also be installed properly and checked for warpage. If either of thse conditions exist, you will have slight clutch drag making neutral hard to achieve.

C&P from http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm
There are some things to note here:
*There is a rounded edge and sharp edge on the clutch plates from the manufacturing process. Be sure all clutch plates are facing the same direction. It is said direction does not matter as long as all are the same. I choose to have the rounded edge out.
*The friction plates are marked on two ears. A single cut on one ear, and a double cut 180 degrees from there. All similar friction plate ears should line up with the indicator of the clutch boss. If clutch drag is noticed after reassembly, Yamaha recommends to rotate all friction disks 180 degrees with the friction plate alignment indicator on the clutch boss.
*Coat all friction plates with fresh oil before assembly. This will help prevent excessive wear the first time the new clutch is engaged.

 

[johnblaid]

my cover is off now so i'm glad I saw this. I'm gonna install the Morley shift segment.

I found that switching to Rotella helped but I have to start from first gear.

the thing that gets in in neutral every time is to rev the engine and hold it above 2500 rpm while trying to shift into neutral. goes right in every time and it's a royal pain in the ass.

 

[putin]

Sometimes (rare) it is hard to find neutral.That's not a problem. The same on my Ninja 98, 900. Depends on oil, and temperature, as I noticed. On Max I just add gas little bit as I disengage the clutch, either it 2 or 1 shift, then push to neutral. When I was driving military jeep in Soviet Union, you had to add gas (speed the gear box) every time you want to change gear. And freaking machine was jerking like crasy. But this jeep was undestractable. I think the same with USA made Willis (any vets around?).

 

[frank5079]

Once again, here is THE way of getting into neutral easily on Vmax:

- engine running, stopped in 1st gear
- let the clutch out just enough for the bike to start creeping
- at the same time push up the shift lever up lightly with your foot
- pops into neutral

works EVERY time, on every Vmax I've ever ridden!

I tried that this morning while stopped at a traffic light, with one slight difference; with your foot pushing up on the gear selector while bike is creeping, declutch and the gear selector pops easily, right in to neutral......

 

[toddo]

tugla reported the same thing and he replaced his clutch master and it fixed it. a rebuild did not work for him.

I was thinking about changing my clutch master too hoping to cure the problem. Just picked up a Motion Pro bleeder. Just did a double D clutch mod with all new disks. Steel and friction. Clutch master next. I Took the bike on a test run yesterday and the clutch works good. I came to a stop at a red light and could shift into neutral. Just to be sure it wasn't a fluke I tried a couple more times and it worked. I'm stoked.