broook
Well-Known Member
Do you HAVE to drain all the anti freeze from the --coolant tank--radiator--water pump--and cylinder blocks, to remove the valve covers???.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Re: vale cover removal.
Yes to at least the lines and radiator. Removing the engine input lines and hanging the radiator down loose near the front fender makes it a whole lot easier!
Mark
Yes to at least the lines and radiator. Removing the engine input lines and hanging the radiator down loose near the front fender makes it a whole lot easier!
Mark
turbostang
Well-Known Member
Re: vale cover removal.
I have taken the rear cover off without removing any hoses, so that is possible. I have not done tried the front yet, so cannot say for sure.
How are things on the 'rock'?
I have taken the rear cover off without removing any hoses, so that is possible. I have not done tried the front yet, so cannot say for sure.
How are things on the 'rock'?
Re: vale cover removal.
I would almost rather pull the dang engine to get to the covers then do it in the bike.
Sean
I would almost rather pull the dang engine to get to the covers then do it in the bike.
Sean
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Re: vale cover removal.
Getting them off is not the hard part.Geting them and the gasket on is the fun part.I finally yamabonded mine on last time.
Getting them off is not the hard part.Geting them and the gasket on is the fun part.I finally yamabonded mine on last time.
broook
Well-Known Member
Re: vale cover removal.
Thanks for the replies guys. [considering I even spelled "Valve" wrong]
I managed to lift the rear cover high enough the other day to check the valves and they are all a bit tight. I was hopeing there would be a shorcut, but as always I will have to end up doing it the hard way.
I think I could have removed it altogether but getting it back without spoiling the gasket looked !!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
Bob Brook
99 Max
Thanks for the replies guys. [considering I even spelled "Valve" wrong]
I managed to lift the rear cover high enough the other day to check the valves and they are all a bit tight. I was hopeing there would be a shorcut, but as always I will have to end up doing it the hard way.
I think I could have removed it altogether but getting it back without spoiling the gasket looked !!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
Bob Brook
99 Max
broook
Well-Known Member
Re: vale cover removal.
To put it in one word, COLD.
This is the worst spring I can remember. So far I have about 600km on the bike and wouldn`t have done that without the electric vest.
Send me some heat, PLEASE.
Bob Brook
Newfoundland
To put it in one word, COLD.
This is the worst spring I can remember. So far I have about 600km on the bike and wouldn`t have done that without the electric vest.
Send me some heat, PLEASE.
Bob Brook
Newfoundland
turbostang
Well-Known Member
Re: vale cover removal.
I took all the heat when I left:eusa_dance:
If you clean the cover good, and use rtv silicone to bond the gasket back on it is pretty easy to replace the assembly. I removed the fuel pump, radiator overflow tank, and tank cover lock to get more room.
It is not that difficult.
I took all the heat when I left:eusa_dance:
If you clean the cover good, and use rtv silicone to bond the gasket back on it is pretty easy to replace the assembly. I removed the fuel pump, radiator overflow tank, and tank cover lock to get more room.
It is not that difficult.
Re: vale cover removal.
I have the carbs off now and was about to go and do my gasket replacement on the rear. any tips on what to remove to really get in there far enough to torque these things down right? would love to use a torque wrench but the location is a little tight.
ALSO... pretty much remove the spark plug wire, and remove. is it really that easy?
I have the carbs off now and was about to go and do my gasket replacement on the rear. any tips on what to remove to really get in there far enough to torque these things down right? would love to use a torque wrench but the location is a little tight.
ALSO... pretty much remove the spark plug wire, and remove. is it really that easy?
Hercules
Well-Known Member
I just replaced my covers with chrome ones,I started with the back one it was a pain with the coolent line on[coudnt do it],once that line is out of the way its a breeze.
Just pull out the drain plug on the water pump that will be enough.
Just pull out the drain plug on the water pump that will be enough.
Yup... been there done that!
And learned when putting the back cover back in, make sure not to knock out an oil plug.
I was one lucky sum beeeach, that it fell outside the head and didn't stay in under the valve cover.
And learned when putting the back cover back in, make sure not to knock out an oil plug.
I was one lucky sum beeeach, that it fell outside the head and didn't stay in under the valve cover.
sorry for keeping this thread going, but I am going to try this again this weekend. You mention draining the coolant at the water pump. shouldnt i do it at the cylinders?
If so, take off the plate, stick a spark plug in there and remove the plug. where's the coolant go? does it seriously just dribble down on the engine case?
oh... and from last posting, what is an oil plug?
If so, take off the plate, stick a spark plug in there and remove the plug. where's the coolant go? does it seriously just dribble down on the engine case?
oh... and from last posting, what is an oil plug?
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
You do drain the coolant on the water pump. The small drains are for the heads.And yes it runs down the motor.
The oil plug he is talking about is in the cam caps.They can be removed and with the cams in the right position you can get to the head bolts.This way heads can be retorqued with the cams in.
Hercules
Well-Known Member
Drain the coolant at the water pump[ its easy] then remove the coolant hose from the head,I found yamabonding the gasket to the head was easier then to the valve cover,with the coolant hose out of the way theres enough room to drop the cover over the chain. Whole job took me an hour!
