What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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In the process of changing out the Starter Clutch. Look what I found. Seems like I'm not the only one that buys at Harbor Freight. Being a barn find, I figure the rats got to the harness and this was their quickie fix. Haven't decided if I'll make it right or not. works okay as it is but, I'm not crazy about half-A$$ work. Maybe the correct harness connectors needed can be gotten...🤷‍♂️
That’s a difficult decision as the actual electrical connections MAY be okay, but the external finish is poor. If the electrical part is okay, and you can unplug the wires I would put some heat-shrink over each connector to make it all look pretty, and obviously give more mechanical strength.

F.Y.I. There are electrical soldering and connection standards named IPC, that give methods for just about everything you can touch on wiring harness’s and connectors. It was initially developed by the guys from Texas Instruments and further developed for industries such as downhole drilling, its all about keeping together parts that rattle, and protection of ingress of fluids. I always use their methods (or close to them) when touching this stuff. If you travelled up a bit by Padre Island to Sugarland, it was just about all developed there. Just a bit of additional and nearly useless information for you 😀
 
That’s a difficult decision as the actual electrical connections MAY be okay, but the external finish is poor. If the electrical part is okay, and you can unplug the wires I would put some heat-shrink over each connector to make it all look pretty, and obviously give more mechanical strength.

F.Y.I. There are electrical soldering and connection standards named IPC, that give methods for just about everything you can touch on wiring harness’s and connectors. It was initially developed by the guys from Texas Instruments and further developed for industries such as downhole drilling, its all about keeping together parts that rattle, and protection of ingress of fluids. I always use their methods (or close to them) when touching this stuff. If you travelled up a bit by Padre Island to Sugarland, it was just about all developed there. Just a bit of additional and nearly useless information for you 😀
Ha ha thanks. I'm 25 minutes from South Padre and my kids live by Sugarland. I just took an Ole' Guy nap and I know what to do about the wiring now. Shrink wrap was part of it. 😁 👍
 
Ha ha thanks. I'm 25 minutes from South Padre and my kids live by Sugarland. I just took an Ole' Guy nap and I know what to do about the wiring now. Shrink wrap was part of it. 😁 👍
👍
Another piece of nearly useless information is that I went out for a drive one day from Sugarland and went all the way down Padre Island right to where you live. My great intention was to cross into Mexico as i’ve never been there before, but just realised that was an incredibly stupid idea as I might not get back into the US as i’m not a citizen. So it was all the way back up Padre Island again. Loved it though.
 
The crimp connectors are OK for a dry not-humid connection, without a lot of amps/volts, but for something like the main electrical input from the stator, being soldered is better. Yes, I'm aware probably all the OEM connections are probably crimped in the harness. The 4-conductor trailer harness wire job, with one lead abandoned, at-least it has a water-resistant connector for the bullets. He could've wrapped the crimp connectors with electrical tape, at-least. Seeing that, I'd be looking that ride over, for other 'lash-ups,' jury-rigged' repairs, and mechanical repairs done half-assed.

I think 'Born in East L.A.' is the best of the Cheech and Chong movies. They're light-hearted, the guys poke fun at themselves and stereotypes, and I laugh alot.
 
I think 'Born in East L.A.' is the best of the Cheech and Chong movies. They're light-hearted, the guys poke fun at themselves and stereotypes, and I laugh alot.
I sometimes use RTV (room temp vulcanised rubber) on connectors if I think there will be any ingress of fluids, then put heat-shrink Sleeving ontop. It works for me. I’ve mentioned RTV before as the stuff that can bond an elephant to a battleship. 🛥🐘 RTV is used allot in various industries mostly for ingress protection of electrical components.

i’m going to look up Cheech and Chong movies tomorrow and see what I can find as that was funny, probably even funnier to me as I was nearly having to smuggle myself back in the US by being so stupid 😀. It also leaves you with an ear worm 🐛
 
Well, It was interesting.. Years back I had grtit blasted the strange "paint" that was all scratched, only to reveal this odd, yet better looking "aluminum" or fake crome or wtf ever it was.

Then the other week I went to fill it (using bondo ;) ). it seemed like REAL metal of some sort, rather than the "fake Chrome" I thought it was.

After sanding into it, I through a meter on it, and Ill be, she conducts electricals. I don't think I knew that they can put REAL metal plating on Plastic. But there it was. Bondo'd er up, sanded er down... (rihgt through the bondo Ill add 😤 .), added more bondo, sanded down, and shaped perfectly , just like the original - TADA!! . And THEN realized (yesterday) I shoulda sanded it flat, as that is the shape of the light that is going there.. 🤦‍♂️






Why does that not surprise me.? 🙄
Probably cost less than my man hours of bondo/sanding/bondo/sanding/Primer/sanding/painting/painting/clearing...(or something around that order.)

And the profile is flat too, isn't it?.. just like I needed.

How much for suttin like that?


T$
Shoot me an email at [email protected]
I need to look up and see what the actual cost is lol.
 
I sometimes use RTV (room temp vulcanised rubber) on connectors if I think there will be any ingress of fluids, then put heat-shrink Sleeving ontop. It works for me. I’ve mentioned RTV before as the stuff that can bond an elephant to a battleship. 🛥🐘 RTV is used allot in various industries mostly for ingress protection of electrical components.

i’m going to look up Cheech and Chong movies tomorrow and see what I can find as that was funny, probably even funnier to me as I was nearly having to smuggle myself back in the US by being so stupid 😀. It also leaves you with an ear worm 🐛
I remember we'd get ready to watch a Cheech and Chong. (If you know what I mean.. ;)) Back in the day. I never since laughed so hard....
 
I remember we'd get ready to watch a Cheech and Chong. (If you know what I mean.. ;)) Back in the day. I never since laughed so hard....
Oh I know what you mean ok, get them laughing is the name of the game 😀;)

Only last year I watched the Bud Spencer and Terence Hill movies again. Can’t beat this stuff.

I can’t find anyone playing the Cheech and Chong movies on my fire stick right now, disappointed as I really like whacko stuff like that. I’ll need to ask around for this.
 
In the process of changing out the Starter Clutch. Look what I found. Seems like I'm not the only one that buys at Harbor Freight. Being a barn find, I figure the rats got to the harness and this was their quickie fix. Haven't decided if I'll make it right or not. works okay as it is but, I'm not crazy about half-A$$ work. Maybe the correct harness connectors needed can be gotten...🤷‍♂️
I am a really, really big fan of: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
Wondering if yamaha could make the plugs going to the shelter display just a little damn shorter, then would be even more fun to get them back on. 🤔
 
Learned a couple new cuss words trying to get the damn circlip out of the clutch master cylinder. Took it to my buddy Tim at Motion Craft (a great place to get repairs done). Took him ten seconds to get it out. Parts have been painted and are drying overnight for reassembly tomorrow morning.
 
Learned a couple new cuss words trying to get the damn circlip out of the clutch master cylinder. Took it to my buddy Tim at Motion Craft (a great place to get repairs done). Took him ten seconds to get it out. Parts have been painted and are drying overnight for reassembly tomorrow morning.
Bill,
Get the proper set of pliers and it's an easy job. You don't need pliers, actually. You can use a straight pick, to grab one of the holes in the circlip, and to pry it out of the groove, and then just use the pick to unseat the rest of the circlip, to a point where it will pop-out.
 
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