4gasem
Well-Known Member
Whatcha end up doing B? Motor from Sean or just rebuild of the stocker?:confused2:
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Whatcha end up doing B? Motor from Sean or just rebuild of the stocker?:confused2:
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A used motor from Sean... I think it was from an 02.
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
Went through my charging system piece by piece.
Using a meter I discovered I was getting 14.5 coming out of the rectifier but only 13.3 at the battery.:bang head: This was at 1100rpm with the headlight on; I've got two 50 watt bulbs in my Cybermax headlight so idle charge voltage has always been kind of an issue.:confused2:
I had done the "crimp" fix a long time ago; Soldering it.:clapping:
I went thru every connector from the rectifier to the battery and discovered every single one of them were dropping a little bit of voltage.:damn angry:
There was no corrosion or loose connections, just shitty wiring and connectors.
I cut out every single connector and butt spliced them and then soldered them also.
unk:
The main fuse block I couldn't eliminate so a pryed the connectors out and soldered them in addition to the crimp they already have.
I also cut the wire from the main fuse block to the battery terminal lug and put it on it's own lug instead of being inside the same lug as the positive cable that goes from the battery to the starter solenoid.
Every thing that got a crimp also got soldered, the only thing from the rectifier to the battery that isn't soldered is the fuse blades.
At this point I was getting a full 14.5 volts to the battery at idle with the headlight on and couldn't find any voltage drops anywhere.:eusa_dance:
I also took the rectifier loose, remounted it with some T&B Copper based conductor paste on the backside and replace the old ground wire I had installed from the R/R to the engine by the oil fill cap and replaced it with some pretty aftermarket red ground cable that came off my wifes old car.
It's now routed from the rectifier, to the engine, up to the negative terminal on the battery and then on to the frame.
I left the old battery ground cable that goes straight to the engine from the battery in place as well.
None of the grounding improvements made any difference I could tell.
Here's my take on things:
Since none of the crimps or lugs were corroded or loose my diagnosis is that the wiring and spade lugs, connectors etc are simply not up to the task of carrying 15-25 amps of current.
They are using some really crappy looking brass connectors and they look undersized as well, at least to me and I do industrial electric stuff for a living.
The wiring from the rectifier to the battery also looks to be about a 16 guage or maybe 14 guage wire which is very marginal for this kind of load.
I highly recommend this mod,
Along with the "splice/crimp fix"
I also think I may cut the connector out that carries the AC imput from the generator (the 3 white wires) to the R/R and see if a can make a difference there as well. Maybe it will bring the R/R output voltage up.
The reason I'm chasing all this is I'm planning on changing my headlight bulbs out to 100 watts each (Cybermax headlight) or maybe add a driving light below the headlight if I can figure out a clean way to install it.
Later,
Rusty
P.S.
If you can't tell by my lengthy post I'm at work on company time
Using a meter I discovered I was getting 14.5 coming out of the rectifier but only 13.3 at the battery.:bang head: This was at 1100rpm with the headlight on; I've got two 50 watt bulbs in my Cybermax headlight so idle charge voltage has always been kind of an issue.:confused2:
I had done the "crimp" fix a long time ago; Soldering it.:clapping:
I went thru every connector from the rectifier to the battery and discovered every single one of them were dropping a little bit of voltage.:damn angry:
There was no corrosion or loose connections, just shitty wiring and connectors.
I cut out every single connector and butt spliced them and then soldered them also.
unk:The main fuse block I couldn't eliminate so a pryed the connectors out and soldered them in addition to the crimp they already have.
I also cut the wire from the main fuse block to the battery terminal lug and put it on it's own lug instead of being inside the same lug as the positive cable that goes from the battery to the starter solenoid.
Every thing that got a crimp also got soldered, the only thing from the rectifier to the battery that isn't soldered is the fuse blades.
At this point I was getting a full 14.5 volts to the battery at idle with the headlight on and couldn't find any voltage drops anywhere.:eusa_dance:
I also took the rectifier loose, remounted it with some T&B Copper based conductor paste on the backside and replace the old ground wire I had installed from the R/R to the engine by the oil fill cap and replaced it with some pretty aftermarket red ground cable that came off my wifes old car.
It's now routed from the rectifier, to the engine, up to the negative terminal on the battery and then on to the frame.
I left the old battery ground cable that goes straight to the engine from the battery in place as well.
None of the grounding improvements made any difference I could tell.
Here's my take on things:
Since none of the crimps or lugs were corroded or loose my diagnosis is that the wiring and spade lugs, connectors etc are simply not up to the task of carrying 15-25 amps of current.
They are using some really crappy looking brass connectors and they look undersized as well, at least to me and I do industrial electric stuff for a living.
The wiring from the rectifier to the battery also looks to be about a 16 guage or maybe 14 guage wire which is very marginal for this kind of load.
I highly recommend this mod,
Along with the "splice/crimp fix"
I also think I may cut the connector out that carries the AC imput from the generator (the 3 white wires) to the R/R and see if a can make a difference there as well. Maybe it will bring the R/R output voltage up.
The reason I'm chasing all this is I'm planning on changing my headlight bulbs out to 100 watts each (Cybermax headlight) or maybe add a driving light below the headlight if I can figure out a clean way to install it.
Later,
Rusty
P.S.
If you can't tell by my lengthy post I'm at work on company time
Well done, Rusty. I soldered the stator to R/R connection and it gained me almost .5 Volts at the battery.
I also was thinking of sanding, cleaning and then putting conductive grease on the back of the R/R.
Thanks for the post.
I also was thinking of sanding, cleaning and then putting conductive grease on the back of the R/R.
Thanks for the post.
nd4topspd
Well-Known Member
Good Morning Everyone!! Going to be putting the spit shine on the max today and getting ready to head off for a 4 hr ride tomarrow.
First though I am takin the wife to dr to have a biopsy done for some woman problems she is havin. Those that beleive in prayer please keep her in mind.
You all have an awesome day!!!
First though I am takin the wife to dr to have a biopsy done for some woman problems she is havin. Those that beleive in prayer please keep her in mind.
You all have an awesome day!!!
Robbarrie
Well-Known Member
Have a safe ride.
Just wanted to tell ya not to worry. My wife has had it done before because they found abnormal tissue in her pap smear. She was worried sick about it for weeks. In the end after her bi-op, It was fine, and good doctors will have you tested more as a precaution and early detection is best if there is a problem. All the best, to your wife.
Just wanted to tell ya not to worry. My wife has had it done before because they found abnormal tissue in her pap smear. She was worried sick about it for weeks. In the end after her bi-op, It was fine, and good doctors will have you tested more as a precaution and early detection is best if there is a problem. All the best, to your wife.
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
When the mounts come in give me a call. As you are only a 3hr ride away I can come on down and lend a hand. Beings that I just put mine in I have a couple of tips that make things mighty easy when installing.... got mine in with no issues in under an hour.
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
Forgot to add that I installed R6 front calipers, an R1 front brake master cyl., and bar end mirrors last week. Promptly put 800km (450 miles) on the bike Tuesdayunk: Running good and sounding better.
unk: Running good and sounding better.
tfisher65
Well-Known Member
6 degrees and rain today, not riding anywhere. It was a good day to change the dif. oil and gap the plugs.
Well, it was yesterday, but what I did with mine was ride it home! After wanting one since '85, I bought an '06 with 1500 miles on ebay. I'm in the Denver area, it was 500 miles away in Kansas. I figured a bit of a ride, but not too bad. Checked the 10-day forcast before buying, mid 60's on both ends. Bought the bike, bought 1-way airfare, and every day watched the forcast get a little worse. By the time I was ready to get on it & head back west, both states were under a high wind advisory. 500 miles of 40 mph head-shaking, body-slamming head & side winds. It only let up a few times in order to rain on me, and one 10 mile stretch where snow & sleet were coming down so hard I could barely keep my faceshield wiped off. The headwinds dropped my mileage down to about 25 mpg, so with frequent gas stops & one stop under an overpass to let a storm move through, it took me 9 hours. I've been riding since '79, and it was the longest, hardest, most challenging ride of my life. My 50 y.o. body feels like I played rugby yesteday. On the plus side (besides making it home safely), I didn't get pulled over for no valid license plate, and after checking the forum here this morning, realize I don't need to worry about the low oil level light under hard acceleration. Thanks for letting me share.
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Congratulations on your new VMax! :banana::cheers: After a ride like that, anything the VMax throws at you will be a piece of cake!
congrads on the new bike got a new 06 myself last year..and dont have a oil light come on under hard acceleration..use 4 qts with filter... I think a lot of the problem is low oil or using less then 4 qts.06 is a nice bike goodluck
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
Been working all weekend to hand polish my scoops, 10hrs later, bonding experience with my 5yr old (as pic shows:biglaugh, and lots of work left I am 95% complete. Even painted in the Yamaha lettering. Going to paint the scoop "mouth" black to show off the shine. Pic doesnt do the polish justice for some reason. Will have to see what they look like on the bike and take more pics.
, and lots of work left I am 95% complete. Even painted in the Yamaha lettering. Going to paint the scoop "mouth" black to show off the shine. Pic doesnt do the polish justice for some reason. Will have to see what they look like on the bike and take more pics.Attachments
maxcruiser
Well-Known Member
Been working all weekend to hand polish my scoops, 10hrs later, bonding experience with my 5yr old (as pic shows:biglaugh
Hey Jim, your teaching him at a young age so that next time you won't have to do it, it will be his job to make the max look good, right!
Mike
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
Bought a raptor shift light, and bracket. Gassed it up for a ride this afternoon. It's a sunny 30deg, I'll get a few helmet cam shots. unk:
unk:
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
Been working all weekend to hand polish my scoops, 10hrs later, bonding experience with my 5yr old (as pic shows:biglaugh
Along time ago, when I was a baby my dad would come home and put me on the tank of his police bike. After about 2 trips around the block I would be asleep and then my mom would put me down for my nap.
growing up and many motorcycles later, dad would wonder what kind of gearhead monster he created.
That pic of you and your son reminds me of that story. :biglaugh:
Never too young to get em involved. :thumbs up:
4gasem
Well-Known Member
500 miles on a stock seat? Oh HELLLLLLLL NOOOOO!
lol
I see you have a 90? Vtwin too... As do I. What do you think of the V4?
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
C'mon Chris I can do 500 miles on my stock seat no problem........no nerves in my arse anymore:biglaugh:
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