Working Fuel Gauge for Gen 1!!!

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RagingMain

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Ok now that I have your attention here is what I am working on

As you can see from the pic the stock fuel sender is on the right.
The one I want to use is on the left.

I have 2 options.
1. Modify the tank to accept the bigger base
2. Cut and weld the new sender to the OEM base and rewire.

I have found gauges that will work with the new sender and we could get gauge mounts from Tom at COO.
It reads 13 omhs full and 142 ohms empty. Nice thing as well when it reads empty you should have about 1/2 gallon left.

Here is where it gets tricky.
What I would like to do is use both the OEM sender and the level sender.
OEM doesnt switch the relay until 900-1100 ohms which is much much higer than the float.

Is there a way to isolate the two and have the float feed a gauge and the OEM do its job??? :ummm:
I guess one way is to modify the tank to have two separate holes but I want this to be as easy as possible.

If not or too much hassle I would love to have just a working gauge.
Let me know what you guys think.
 

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What about option 3 where you make a reducer adapter so that the bigger base bolts into the original space?
 
What about option 3 where you make a reducer adapter so that the bigger base bolts into the original space?


That is an option. Just a first glance I think it would be easer to drill a hole in the bigger base that would match up to the OEM and bolt it up that way.
 
Is there a way to isolate the two and have the float feed a gauge and the OEM do its job??? :ummm:

Its not possible since left one works exactly like potentiometer and stock one is simply thermistor. Thermistor do not work that linear as potontiometer do.
Its rather work like simple electrocal switch.

I have spare tank and cbr600 in tank high pressure fuel pump for EFI future project but do not have a time to make some eork with this.

That pump have bulit in fuel level sensor and it perfect to use with my new koso digital speedometer with fuel gauge.
 
Its not possible since left one works exactly like potentiometer and stock one is simply thermistor. Thermistor do not work that linear as potontiometer do.
Its rather work like simple electrocal switch.

I have spare tank and cbr600 in tank high pressure fuel pump for EFI future project but do not have a time to make some eork with this.

That pump have bulit in fuel level sensor and it perfect to use with my new koso digital speedometer with fuel gauge.

As far as separating the two it is possible but I do understand what you are saying as far as the two different types of resistors.

For those of us who dont have EFI I will find a way to prevent having to modify our tanks

Back to the drawing board though. After mocking it up in my spare tank I have noticed a fatal flaw to this particular float desin. Tank is too small to allow full range of motion by the float. And this particuar float has a small range of motion as well. Wont correspond well to our tank being 10" deep.

So I have ordered this fuel sender for boats.
http://www.e-performancemarine.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=196
I will figure out a way to adapt this to our current sender and isolate the two circuits allowing for OEM relay and a gauge.
 
Very good sensor and 60$ is not that much :clapping:

Im gonna use fuel pressure regulator and i can set very low pressure and use high pressure fuel pump with carbs also.
Thsose regulators runs about 10$ on ebay.

Also i plan to notch stock tank and get min 20 liters btw of instaling the new pump. But lot of work here, its winter project well, very late winter :D

Only way i can see here that might suit, is to keep stock sensor and simply sligtly modify the tank for new sensor.
 

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