17inch wheels upgrade, plus few other mods (for now)

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i really like the look guys, top notch work. i forgot, did you do the washer swap? you could always do that to help out a bit to give it a little more clearance

sucks with a 190 tire though, the easiest way to drop the rear rim now, is to drop the rear pumpkin!
 
i really like the look guys, top notch work. i forgot, did you do the washer swap? you could always do that to help out a bit to give it a little more clearance

sucks with a 190 tire though, the easiest way to drop the rear rim now, is to drop the rear pumpkin!
I did the washer swap (I think) I'm using only one washer on the right hand side, it sits between the swingarm and the caliper bracket.

Agree on the pumpkin, plus since I'm using the stock caliper and rotor I have to unbolt the rotor in order to remove the caliper.

I have one idea for more clearence, I have easy access to a press (my brother is a mechanic they have one at the shop) so I was thinking of "crushing" the swingarm just a bit right around where the tire might work. Similar to a notch but no cutting or welding required.

In theory I'm pretty sure it will work and the swingarm will be fine but I'm a bit reluctant to do it since the last thing I want is to crack it or worse have it crack on me while riding.
 
I did the washer swap (I think) I'm using only one washer on the right hand side, it sits between the swingarm and the caliper bracket.

Agree on the pumpkin, plus since I'm using the stock caliper and rotor I have to unbolt the rotor in order to remove the caliper.

I have one idea for more clearence, I have easy access to a press (my brother is a mechanic they have one at the shop) so I was thinking of "crushing" the swingarm just a bit right around where the tire might work. Similar to a notch but no cutting or welding required.

In theory I'm pretty sure it will work and the swingarm will be fine but I'm a bit reluctant to do it since the last thing I want is to crack it or worse have it crack on me while riding.

to do the washer swap you would take that washer and move it between the splines of the wheel and the splines of the final drive..

http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/fat_tire_installation.htm

i would NOT do what you are saying with the swingarm. i bet not only would you weaken it, but bend it and it would cause line up issues

see my headache here:

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=14694
 
to do the washer swap you would take that washer and move it between the splines of the wheel and the splines of the final drive..

http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/fat_tire_installation.htm

i would NOT do what you are saying with the swingarm. i bet not only would you weaken it, but bend it and it would cause line up issues

see my headache here:

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=14694
So, I didn't really do the washer swap then :ummm:. I forgot how I took the wheel apart. Thanks fo the link to the instructions, I'll do that this weekend and see what happens. Wouldn't moving the washer to the left of the wheel move the whole wheel over to the rigtht?
 
to do the washer swap you would take that washer and move it between the splines of the wheel and the splines of the final drive..

http://www.v[/QUOTE] So, I didn't r...with 2 adjustable bolts as prez has mentioned
 
Yes it would but didn't you want more cleareance on the left? You can then still move the whole swingarm assembly to the left with 2 adjustable bolts as prez has mentioned
Actually the oposite, the left side of the wheel is perfect have plenty of clearance there. The right side has enough clearence to fit an envelope through which should be fine but if there was an easy way to move only the wheel to the left I'd be wiling to do that. However, it sounds like the only way to get more clearence on the right side would be to notch it.
 
I wasn't thinking he needed to push the wheel to the left. I must be missing something.... He is looking for more clearance between the right side of the tire and the swingarm, correct?

Only way I can see to gain clearance there would be notch the swingarm.

Moving the whole arm to the left with two adjustable pivot bolts would center the wheel on the bike better but it won't give you any more clearance between the tire and the swingarm.
 
haha i think he was concerned about both.... thats quite an offset, never seen a tire with that little clearance on the right. no problem though as long as you can line up the swingarm with the adjustment bolts and the Ujoint is at a good angle. computrack could probably do it cheap (under $100) and be dead nuts on.
 
haha i think he was concerned about both.... thats quite an offset, never seen a tire with that little clearance on the right. no problem though as long as you can line up the swingarm with the adjustment bolts and the Ujoint is at a good angle. computrack could probably do it cheap (under $100) and be dead nuts on.


I wouldn't call it concerned but you're both correct :biglaugh:. I was asking about the swingarm alignment and the wheel alignment inside the swingarm. The way it is now the wheel is offset to the right just slightly more than stock. It will work just fine I won't even feel the differnece. The tire clears as well and from what I hear other people have similar low clearence and are fine. The picture I have makes it look a lot worse than it is becuase of the angle I was standing at.

I think I'll actually do both, move the swing arm over to the left per Prez's suggestion and notch the swingarm. I want to put on 190/60/17 tire on there which from what I hear is the same height as stock 15.
 
So I went to pick up my new triple trees over the weekend only to find out the guy screwed up the measuremnts and has to redo them :damn angry:

Not sure how he managed to screw it up, I gave him my original triples to get the turning radius angle and so on, the zx10 triples to get the overall width and one shock to get the shock diameter.

Now I have to wait two more weeks before I can ride :bang head:.
 
So I went to pick up my new triple trees over the weekend only to find out the guy screwed up the measuremnts and has to redo them :damn angry:

Not sure how he managed to screw it up, I gave him my original triples to get the turning radius angle and so on, the zx10 triples to get the overall width and one shock to get the shock diameter.

Now I have to wait two more weeks before I can ride :bang head:.

Ill try to dig some basic mesurments for ya but not toady, Im tired enough for today LOL
 
So after a month of delay and getting one set of triples that were incorrect I FINALLY got them in over the weekend and mounted up to the bike. While waiting for the trees I mounted up my new speedo and the shift light. All looked good except one small detail, the original handlebar mount will not fit the new, top triple clamp :bang head: The problem is that the bottom bolts (the one's that are at almost 45 degree angle) are too short. I'm moving on to plan B and will be getting a set of risers and figuring out another way to mount the speedo with the shift light.

All I have left to do at this point is:
1. Mount and bleed the front brakes
2. Get some risers and mount the handlebars
3. Figure out a new way to mount the speedo - (this can wait since I use my GPS to see how fast I'm going)

Here are some pictures of what the bike looks like right now.
 

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