'85 Carbs - hurting my head

[naughtyG]

It's all about using the right Philips screw driver for the screw. I believe these are #1, possibly #2. If there's any play at all between the driver and the screw, you're using the wrong bit and you will strip it.

When they're stuck, you need two things:
- something that will penetrate and lubricate, such as PB Blaster
- an impact driver, but as noted, you gotta be careful to support the carb properly in something soft like wood, if you break a carb body you're well screwed!

If all fails, then use a visegrip to get them out, or as a last resort, a center punch and small hammer - hit the side of the screw to loosen it.

Also, a lot of us replace all these crappy philips screws with Allen heads while we're there - it really helps if you ever have to get in there again! Just make sure to get stainless steel so they doesn't rust.

 

[dannymax]

Along the lines of "As a total last resort...." I've dremeled a thin slot in the screw head and used a regular screwdriver with visegrips to remove.

By all means, replace with allen heads!

 

[one2dmax]

#2 phillips. AND, an impact driver (manual) will be your friend on many fasteners on this bike. I do use the cordless too but it's not as good as cracking them loose with the driver.

Sean

 

[ColoNat]

I have a new favorite tool this weekend... the Alden proGrabit. Those nasty float screws are all gone now... 30 min = 16 screws gone ;]

I found the at Home Depot, but they're available online, also.

Replacing everything with stainless allen heads, of course.

 

[spursmech]

unk: Hey, those proGrabits work great. Been using them for years on any type bolt or screw. Spurs

 

[ColoNat]

UGH! 10 hours over the last 3 days spent disassembling and cleaning carbs, new gaskets, new o-rings... same issues. struggles to come off idle, stalls while idling, feels/sounds like it's missing on 1 or 2 cyl. makes my brain hurt!

 

[one2dmax]

Might be a bad CDI box. i'm not sure I have any good ones on hand at the moment to let you test with.
Sean

 

[jfeagins]

Can you get it to idle long enough to get voltage readings? CDI's don't like it when the voltage drops too low, especially when the fan kicks on, dropping the idle voltage to it's lowest.

Can you see spark jumping around from plug wires to the frame or valve covers when it is stalling at idle?

My shiitty coughing, sputtering and stalling at idle was cured when I got my voltage issues worked out, and the CDI got happier. But I could visibly see spark jumping - mainly the rear two cylinders, when all this was occurring. I thought I had bad plugs,wires and caps, but brand new ones didn't change anything.

just more possiblities that may or may not help.......?

 

[ColoNat]

turned out to still be all fuel related. must have still had some bad gas in the tank, as well as plenty of rust. spent the day flushing the tank... oh, and special tip... extending magnetic pick-up tool works wonders for removing rust flakes from the tank quickly! (tried it after about 3 hours with a can full of gas and a siphon)

:bang head:

 

[naughtyG]

You will need to seal and treat your tank, or replace it. If not, it'll only come back all over again.

 

[Woody]

Now replace the fuel filter and drain them float bowls.
Glad you found your gremlin.

 

[ColoNat]

used mr gasket glass filter as Chris recommended - filled and drained float bowls twice before starting, just to make sure all floaties were gone.:eusa_dance:

 

[naughtyG]

used mr gasket glass filter as Chris recommended - filled and drained float bowls twice before starting, just to make sure all floaties were gone.:eusa_dance:

The problem with those glass filters is that, while it's easier to see how quickly they get dirty, and to clean them, the pores in the filter element are so big they will let even more rust dust through than the paper type.

Your bike will run ok for a little while, but it will quickly develop the same problems again. Mine did, anyway. I had no flakes or any size, just fine dust that was enough to stop the needle valves from sealing. So it dumped fuel all over, returned about 50 miles to a full tank and ran shit under 5000 rpm.

The only good thing about it, was that because it ran like a diesel at low revs, then suddenly picked up around 5k, the 'boost' feeling was even better than the first time I tried a Vmax all those years ago! :clapping: