Aftermarket clutch?

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dwarf717

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Anyone know whos clutch this is? Went to fix my leaking clutch cover today, and found this.
003_zpsb0fe01e2.jpg
 
It looks like someone Modified the Stock Clutch Pressure Plate to allow it to use Barnett Springs.
 
Definitely got a home grown look to it, which isn't a bad thing but probly no specific manufacturer. Agree w/D it does have some Barnett stuff.

How's the pull on the clutch lever?
 
So I'm putting together a long term goal list for the bike as mods and upgrades go. Reading on Barnett vs DD the firm handle of the DD doesn't sound desirable.

Would appreciate some clarification on going for the Barnett : http://www.barnettclutches.com/prod...tches_other&clutch_make=Yamaha&clutch_cc=1200

I searched the forum and it seems some just did plates, others springs, others used the Barnett plates with DD configuration...

If I just want smoother shifting and maybe a neutral that isn't hard to find 1/2 the time what should I be going for?

Year Model Friction Plates (Qty.) Tempered Steel Metal Plates (Qty.) Spring Kits Clutch-Kits Remarks/Notes
1985-07 VMX12 V-Max
401-90-089050(7) ***511-90-10002 *302-90-20037
**306-90-20082 *Friction Plate Kit **Friction & Steel Plate Kit ***Spring Conversion Kit

My inclination would be just the **306-90-20082 Friction and Steel plate kit. Should I go with the springs as well?
Does anybody know if the spring kit also includes the plates?
 
The setup in my bike does not make finding N, while the bike is running very easy at all. more like a pain in the ass
 
i'd check how your stock plates look. replace the frictions if need be and have the steels blasted if need be.

then get a pcw kit. done and done.

i love my DD, but i have an FJR master.
 
I sanded and re-used the Stock Steel Plates and New OEM Friction Plates ($60 for 8) then used the Barnett Pressure Plate/Springs (#511-90-10002):
http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/spring_conversions.aspx?cat_id=6&prod_id=36
I actually left the Half Friction Plate in (many people replace it) so I have 1 extra Full Friction plate incase I ever feel the need to swap it out.
It's shifts much Smoother now and I never had any trouble before or now finding Neutral.

OEM Friction Plates for $7.38 each:
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-26H-16307-00-00.html

PS
Barnett Part #306-90-20082:
includes proper number of friction plates and steel plates (no springs)

Barnett Part #302-90-20037:
includes Only the Friction Plates
 
So I'm putting together a long term goal list for the bike as mods and upgrades go. Reading on Barnett vs DD the firm handle of the DD doesn't sound desirable.

Would appreciate some clarification on going for the Barnett : http://www.barnettclutches.com/prod...tches_other&clutch_make=Yamaha&clutch_cc=1200

I searched the forum and it seems some just did plates, others springs, others used the Barnett plates with DD configuration...

If I just want smoother shifting and maybe a neutral that isn't hard to find 1/2 the time what should I be going for?



My inclination would be just the **306-90-20082 Friction and Steel plate kit. Should I go with the springs as well?
Does anybody know if the spring kit also includes the plates?

Theres some confusion there mate...

Barnett does pressure plates with springs (normal or HD) and the friction discs as well. Im running OEM friction and steel discs and a barnett pressure plate with regular springs on one bike and i have a MTC lockup with barnett pressure plate and OEM friction and steel disks on the other bike... If you want to take a look on how they look sneak into my thread below and take a peek...
 
don't forget the..... oh crap I lost some bolts... I better head down to the hardware store. How many different kinds of bolts should we use is another question? It is all good I am sure..

G
 
don't forget the..... oh crap I lost some bolts... I better head down to the hardware store. How many different kinds of bolts should we use is another question? It is all good I am sure..

G

Usually the Barnett plates come with 8.8 grade yellow zinc plated M6 hex bolts (40mm long?). I replaced those with M6 allen stainless. They don't need to be that special. Not much stress on those and the torque is really little (around 6Nm IIRC). I will cross drill them to get some locking wire on it... Need to take care of that...

img43441.jpg


img4607g.jpg


20062012800.jpg
 
I would suggest to simply have the anodizing stripped and leave it billet in appearance.
 
Looks amazing. Wonder if that comes in white?

Thats the older model from Barnett. That was my first clearcover. Now i evolved a bit more. That one was made on my spare time with almost no tools. I just did a new one with some lighting inside (look below). I also got a pic from the stock bolts and stock barnett pressure plate...

08092012838.jpg
 

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Ok so I bought the bike in the original post. Since this thread is pretty old one just wondering if anyone has any other info on the clutch setup in the original post and what it is supposed to do over stock? If I need to replace parts am I going to have a hard time sorting out what I need and have?
 
I replaced all my frictions and steels with OEM. I also kept the OEM setup with the 1/2 friction plate in the back of the clutch basket. I replaced the stock diaphram spring with the Barnett pressure plate running the softer springs that come with the pressure plate. I like the feel of the pull, nice and smooth, positive engagement and no issues if I'm stuck holding the lever in for extended periods of time. The torque on the Barnett spring bolts is very small, about 70inch lbs so be very carefull if you go this route. After reading the forums on this and seeing where people had broken the clutch basket bolt finger I was overly cautious but in the end had no issues. I like my setup but can't comment on another type since this is all I have had on my bike.


David Justiss
USAF First Sergeant
554 RED HORSE Sq, Guam
 

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