Anyone pretty proficient with 1st Gen Carbs in the Dalls/Ftw area?

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Sorry Trauma, I made a ninja edit to my last reply

highlights:
ok this is an Edit, I pulled out all the parts the PO gave me, this included the package of Dynojet stuff and it looks like the actual stage 7 needles are not even on the bike...there are needles in the kit that look exactly like the picture that Trauma posted earlier...Im guessing that the needles on the bike are actually the stage 1 needles, I have read that those are crap and don't work right



The Vboost seems to be functional I can hear it cycle and i can feel it kick in
 
Well since they seem to be stage one needles.....I wonder if the bike needs more fuel then. You could try in the 5th groove from the blunt end and see how that works.
 
Great, thats what ill do....tomorrow ha ha


for certain the ones on the bike are not the stage 7 ...I wonder why the PO did that?

you guys are awesome, Thanks for your patience with me...Im just very deliberate and over analyze things...maybe that is a good thing sometimes

Ill let you know what happens

Thanks again
 
This is a great forum.....if there is a problem SOMEONE SOMEWHERE knows the answer.

Yep....we definitely want to know what happens.
 
Snuck out last night and changed the needles to the Stage7, havent had a chance to ride it yet...a question popped into my mind last night, I wonder what Jet the PO has installed, I do think he has the proper one in there though, Ill check his notes when I get home...I wold rather not pull the carbs off to check...took me forever to get them seated in the boots correctly

Im hoping the driveability improves greatly this time around with the needle change but my crazy mind is telling me that this needle change may make it worse because if it was rich before with the stage 1, the stage 7 needle is a bit longer and thinner my mind says that will give it even more fuel.

Hopefully I was mistaking a lean condition for rich ;-)


ill let you know this afternoon


i have never dealt with Carbs before cant you tell?
 
Thats ok.....everyone has to start somewhere. Everything Ive learned....I've learned here on this forum.
 
This site is where I finally found the answers for my 85 -- back when I very nearly sold it due to issues, and my inability to resolve them myself. It's also where I first learned of the Eureka Springs, AR spring Vmax rally, then soon met so many fine fellow Vmaxers in person. Hoorah!!!
 
Here is a posting from the Carb section.

Originally Posted by maleko89
You should probably be able to accept WOT in any gear above 2K w/o any bucking or complaint.

Do the following tests.

1) Cruise at 4K in 5th gear .. hold RPM steady (count to 5) and then whack it WOT as quickly as you can. You shouldn't feel the slightest delay or hesitation. If you do, too rich. This does not work at 3.5K or 4.5K, only at 4K because the slides will start to retract at 4.5K even at the lightest throttle angle. 4K sets us up on the threshold and gives us a big jump when we whack it. there is no other RPM to do this where you will get as big a slide jump when rapidly moving to WOT.
This tests for too rich of needle.

2) Verify that starting cold .. that the engine is weak .. and will complain if you try to hold the RPM at 1800 rpms. Within 1-2 min or no later than when the temp needle touches the first mark you should be able to hold the engine between 1500 and 2K w/o complaint or popping back through the carbs. At the least you should be able to do this by the time the engine is fully warmed up but if you are more than 1/2 way between the dot and cold on the temp gauge your pilots are plugged or too lean... (clean or reduce the PAJ2). If you can hold 1.5-2K as soon as you start cold then your pilots are set too rich and you will suffer rich symptoms when it comes to operating temp (clean or enlarge the PAJ2). Only change PAJ2 bigger/smaller if you mixture screws are out or in too far already.
This is how you set your pilot mixture.

3) Do a hard WOT pull in 2nd or 3rd gear from below 3K. Look for a smooth pull all the way up. If it seems to lag in the 4-5K range then too much needle. If we sputter going past 4.5K you don't have enough needle.
This tests for needle richness and leanness.

4) Verify you can cruise "nice and deliberate" at 5K .. if you stumble around and are OK everywhere else you don't have enough pilot.
Another pilot mixture test.

This should also help with getting the bike tuned.
 
Barely even runs now with the dJ stage 7 needles, not sure what my next step is:bang head:

Back to the stage 1 needles i guess and go from there


I might change the fuel filter to rule that out (its original), my coils look good, no cracks that I can see, battery is newish
 
Ok.....the feeling that I get is that your running rich. Sway back to the stage 1 needles, and go back to the 2nd clip...and see how it goes. The stage 1 needles are "bigger" so they will take up more space inside of the jet, allowing less space for fuel. So they are leaner than the stage 7 needles.

With it barely running, I think that your too rich,
 
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Here is a pic of the DJ vs Mikuni pic......so you can see how the jets compare with each other.
 

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The stage 7 ' s are on the second clip..not much rim to adjust

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

If there different needles than you had the issues original issues with, I'd try the adjusting the other way. Did you try the 3rd clip with the stage 7 needles?
 
Hey Triple, I just finshed up my carbs last night. I can stop by with my Motion pro sync and I have the original needles left over from when I installed the stage 1 stuff. Just let me know, I am basically right done the street.
 

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