Broken parts and shrapnel

[one2dmax]

I have pics of where they cut to make it work. The crack isn't ideal for the area they leave intact. As I noted I have seen that kind of crack welded up and fixed even on a drag bike. What you need to look at though is the condition of the middle gear. It may have chewed the teeth up depending on how much the gear changed position. Pull it out and look up in there and on the teeth of both parts.

Sean

 

[bazwell]

Lookie lookie, Mike's making lemonade! Your mod monkey must think highly of you!unk:

That's the way! :biglaugh:
Shaft is what caused the f*ing problem anyway.

 

[[email protected]]

Damn Mike, that does suck. Like the rest of the guys, I hope that it can be a relatively "easy" fix.

If you to go back to shaft drive, I have that complete assembly, u-joint & all, off a low mileage engine, that you can have.

Mike

Thanks Mike, I appreciate the offer. If I end up needing some parts I'll be sure to send you a PM to see if we can work something out. I don't expect anything for free though.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Remove the engine and give it a good blast to remove the paint in the area. Ask the guys to chanfer/groove the crack to fill with weld. Make sure the output shaft seal hasn't been hurt or you will start to leak oil. Like Sean said when welding have everything bolted on to prevent warped case by heat, tell them to be careful when welding due to possible warping...

 

[sdt354]

Thanks for the sympathy guys. I wasn't too happy when I found the crack but I also realize life could be a lot worse!

Thanks for the input on welding Sean. I've got a couple places I can talk to about getting it TIG'ed. Just hope it holds.

If not, I was thinking......Doesn't PCW cut that section of the block when they do their chain drive conversions? :biglaugh:

+1 to Seans suggestion. And, I was wondering if drilling a small hole on each end of the crack might help stop the spreading. Then fill it all in with weld. It's worth a shot at this stage of the season.
Steve-o

 

[[email protected]]

I had to work the 4th of July and in return, we got a three day weekend so I decided it would be a good time to dig into the bike a little deeper.

I removed the ouput shaft to inspect the bevel gear. The gear looks good to me, I do not see any signs of damage at all.



I checked out the crack on the inside of the block. It looks worse inside than out. You can see that it extends all the way around the upper case half.



I took a good look at the swingarm and found that it has suffered some damage. It is beat up all around the u-joint area and the metal has been stretched, stressed, and cracked in a couple spots. I will send pics to Sean to see if it can be put in his jig and reworked back to useable condition.







Decided that I may as well remove the motor. It would be much easier to weld if removed and if it can't be welded than its no good anyways! I took my time and snapped some reference photos, made a couple notes and taped off all the connectors and openings.





I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to have the welder fab up some kind of plate that wraps around the upper case halve to help reinforce the crack after welding the crack, then weld the plate over top.

 

[SpecOps13]

Man am I getting here late.. So Sorry Mike. But, It's fixable and you are alright. Count your blessings... The timing of it coming apart could have been way worse..

A good weld should be stronger than original.. I don't see a need for braces....

Good Luck Bro....

 

[one2dmax]

Actually, the new weld will end up with an "O" hardness so it's softer. BUT, it should still hold. Strapping the engine is something we had thought of as well though never got around to it yet. I had to weld up my 2005 that cracked and it held up just fine. I think your's will be as well.

Sean

 

[[email protected]]

Talked to a guy at the local machine shop about welding the block. They were closed all last week. He said they will give it a shot. I'm going to build some kind of small stand to hold the engine and get it over there this week.

 

[[email protected]]

Finally took the engine in for welding. The shop seemed pretty skeptical about welding on it while it was still together. He thought it may damage something internally. I told him I don't have anything to lose.

Shipped the swingarm off to Sean earlier this week for surgery.

Got a complete output shaft assembly off a low mileage bike for cheap. Planning to rob the yokes off of it and install them on my parts.

Hopefully it all works out.

 

[Redbone]

Mike, I hope all goes well with the welder and rebuild!

 

[choctaw]

Keep us updated ,,,and good luck bro!!

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Finally took the engine in for welding. The shop seemed pretty skeptical about welding on it while it was still together. He thought it may damage something internally. I told him I don't have anything to lose.

Shipped the swingarm off to Sean earlier this week for surgery.

Got a complete output shaft assembly off a low mileage bike for cheap. Planning to rob the yokes off of it and install them on my parts.

Hopefully it all works out.

Mike

Make sure the oil seal is still good and not knackered or blemished. I fixed a situation where the nut holding the Joint sheared off and tumbled inside the boot messing up the oil seal. Make sure you put the shims back on the same way to maintain correct cog slack...

 

[[email protected]]

The welding on the engine block was completed last week. Finally got a chance to pick it up today. Now I have to paint it and put it back in. Hopefully it holds!

I bought a spare output shaft from ebay. I removed the u joint and yokes from the spare unit to use on my original output shaft. According the fische, the gears are only sold as a set so I figured I better keep the originals together. I bolted the rest of the spare output shaft into the block when it was welded. It doesn't look like the heat from welding hurt the seal at all. Not that it matters since I won't be using this one.

One question though. I have to remove the nut on the original output shaft to install the new yoke. I was reading in the manual about the crush spacer in the output shaft assembly. I am not sure if the crush spacer needs to be replaced if I loosen the nut or if I can just re-use it and torque the nut to spec again?

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Thats a thick washer that seat the yoke on the splined output shaft. It doesn't crush itself, it just seats and centers the yoke. Check the nut carefully, i'd probably put the replacement nut you bought. Sometimes these parts get micro cracks not visible to human eye and can fail catastrophically as you already had the chance to check... Check the torque when tightening. I haven't disassembled already but i was able to replace the full output gear for a spline sheared shaft by that washer exactly. It just didn't come loose because the drive shaft kept the yoke in place... By the way it looks good. Never saw a engine reg number like that one...

 

[[email protected]]

Definitely planning to use nut, yoke, washer, and probably bolts from the donor part. I didn't get too in depth reading the manual but what I took away from it was that there is a crush collar in the output shaft and tightening the nut that holds the yoke is what collapses it. Something similar to a crush collar in a truck rear end. I have not disassembled the output shaft so I'm not too sure what is going on with that collar. I was planning to install the new hardware and leave it at that.

 

[one2dmax]

You should be able to reinstall the nut and not worry about the crush collar. Happened like yours on my 2005 and didn't have any problems with replacing the joint without the next stuff.

Sean

 

[[email protected]]

You should be able to reinstall the nut and not worry about the crush collar. Happened like yours on my 2005 and didn't have any problems with replacing the joint without the next stuff.

Sean

Good news for a change.
Any news on the swingarm? After seeing the mess in there i wasnt sure if it could be repaired or not. I wonder if they are SFI rated, it seemed to contain the explosion pretty well :biglaugh:

 

[one2dmax]

LOL, not sure about the SFI. We have sent the arm to the blaster and should have it back tomorrow. I know we can easily hand form the upper side (with the sight hole). The lower side did tear out but we're pretty sure we can fix that too. I am thinking we're going to hand form it back in place and weld up the cracks. Then add some doulber plates to it to give it structure again.

Sean

 

[[email protected]]

Sounds like a plan. I need to email you about a new plug for that sight hole and bearing for one side. Thought I was gonna be able to reuse the bearing but it was full of chunks and the race had some weird looking marks on it. The other side is still good though.