Coolant leak

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

rollin thunder

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2011
Messages
406
Reaction score
0
Location
Rochester
Hi guys .I noticed that the little pipe that exits the front of the water pump is leaking and I was wondering would it be easier to take the water pump sraight out and replace the two O rings that way and the gasget or remove the exhaust pipes and the thermostat from the front and get the pipe off that way .The O rings and gasget are only about 10.00 altogether.I know I have to drain the system either way ,it just seems esier to pull the pump straight off and the pipe will come off with it.I tried rtv around the seal and it didnt work.Maybe I can remove the outer housing bolts and leave the water pump connected to the housing.
 
I think that the water pump route would be easier. The other way has a lot more stuff that will have to come off. Just make sure you replace the gaskets to the water pump also.

Have fun,

Roy
 
+1

You will need:
Water pump gasket 3JP-12449-02-00
Elbow O rings x 2 93210-27778-00 or 93210-27194-00O (previous part #)
Drain plug crush washer 214-11198-01-00 (or a generic part or re-use if totally skint!)

Provided the coolant is less than two years old this can be drained into a clean container and re used, else replace it. Remember to set the coolant drain valve to 'On' before draining and close it when done.
 
Thanks alot.I just checked the thickness of my rotors and I do not think they are ok .The book says 5-4.5 .200-.180 and the rear 7.5-7.0 .300-.280 .mine are at .180 for the front and .270 for the rear.I am a Machinest by trade and that isnt very much wear between good and no good.I checked e bay and the new rotors are 5mm for the front and back but my 93 has 7.5 in the rear.I found all three for 250.00
 
I got all my O rings and stuff and I was wondering if I can drain the system from the bottom of the waterpump.I dont like messing with the drain plug cause I almost lost the little ball bearing that sits in there.
 
Yup, the plug on the water pump will drain what you need for the o-ring/gasket install....no need to mess with the drain cock assembly.
 
Thanks to all .It went real easy.The hardest thing was getting the old gasget off the water pump .I will fill her up friday and check for leaks!!!.
 
I put coolant in her today and she is leaking all around the water pump .Do I need any other seal on the water pump besides the gasget ?.
 
I had to torque the heck out of the allen hex screws on the water pump ,but I think I got it.Why wouldnt Yamaha put Hex bolts when you have to use so much force to seal this thing intstead of allen screws?.
 
The cases are aluminum so there is a limit to the torque they can take, ask me how I know!:bang head: Besides, hex bolts are ugly compared to a nice SS socket cap!:biglaugh:
 
The cases are aluminum so there is a limit to the torque they can take, ask me how I know!:bang head: Besides, hex bolts are ugly compared to a nice SS socket cap!:biglaugh:

also the reason a lot of bolts on the carbs and such are phillips!
 
also the reason a lot of bolts on the carbs and such are phillips!
The carbs is another place that can benefit from using socket cap bolts, especially if you plan on adding a carb kit, troubleshooting carb issues or any other reason you may want/ need to work on your carbs.
Plus, IMO nothing looks better than SS socket cap bolts!:punk:
 
I ran the bike and got it warmed up and I think it helped seal everything up .So far so good and no leaks .
 

Latest posts

Back
Top