I took the endcap off and decided to leave it off. I drilled 5 new holes and also enlarged the holes the rivets were in. All holes are now 1/2" and then I taped off the lip to keep it chrome and sprayed it with semi-gloss black ceramic engine paint.
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4gasem
Well-Known Member
Looks good! You know what you need for that thing?
Some gold anodized Carrozzeria wheels...:whistlin:
:thumbs up:
Some gold anodized Carrozzeria wheels...:whistlin:
:thumbs up:
Tell me about it...
I think the gold would look sweet with the color of the bike.
Maybe in a couple months when the power plant I work at goes into an outage and I get a ton of overtime.
unk:
4gasem
Well-Known Member
Before you do that I would work at getting some 4 pots on the front and newer (larger) rotors too.:thumbs up:Tell me about it...
I think the gold would look sweet with the color of the bike.
Maybe in a couple months when the power plant I work at goes into an outage and I get a ton of overtime.
There are a couple of ebay auctions that are ending this afternoon and evening that I'm trying to get some calipers and rotors. Then I'll get the adapters from that dude in the links list and have good brakes.
Yay for being able to stop.:eusa_dance:
On the list before I get wheels is also some Racetech emulators and springs for the front, some Works shocks for the back, a fork brace, engine brace, and solid engine mounts.
Then it's shiny wheels time.
Not that I've noticed. I'm not sure what jetting is in it though. When my buddy got the bike it had the pod filters and he didn't like them so he put the stock airbox back in and rebuilt the carbs. I'll give him a call and find out though.
bobbfrommn
Well-Known Member
I like the black paint look, maybe I'll do that too. ooh I wonder if I can find some red metallic paint that would hold up that would look cool...
richwrench
Well-Known Member
I just did this same mod to my bike last night , except I riveted the cover back on using 1/4" nuts as spacers to keep the local gestapo happy. I also shimmed my needles 1mm & the bike runs GREAT - no hesitation or loss of power noticed at all. I love the idle now - sounds like a V8 muscle car. I would love a 4 into 1 & a stage 7 , but with 2 kids in college & the local po-po on the lookout for fast bikes , this mod will do me for a while.
Did you ride it before you shimmed the needles and after? How much of a difference did it make? I haven't done anything to my bike yet.
richwrench
Well-Known Member
I've been riding it since the end of January . It's always had a little hesitation just off idle , so a couple of weeks ago I shimmed the needles .020" & it cured 80% of the hesitation. So a few days ago I added another .020" shim to each needle & it ran great , but I was concerned it might be a little on the fat side . I'm hoping the exhaust mod will lean it out just enough for good throttle response without carboning up the motor. I'll run it a week & check the plugs & let you know where it stands.
Off idle mixture is controlled by mixture screws. By shimming your needles you are curing the off idle but may indeed cause a richness problem in your midrange.
Drilling out the exhaust richens a bit.
Mark
#1098
Drilling out the exhaust richens a bit.
Mark
#1098
richwrench
Well-Known Member
?????? Wouldn't drilling the exhaust lean it out because of the increased airflow ? I put pipes & a high flow air filter on my last bike & had to fatten up every circuit to make it run smooth again.:hmmm: I am NOT a CV carb expert , I'm just trying to learn this stuff as I go along.
richwrench
Well-Known Member
Put about 100 miles on current mod. - plugs are clean & it runs the the strongest it ever has - will keep it this way for the summer ( pulled the Y-pipe for about 15 minutes - big mistake - put it right back on ). What do you think about the over-size rivets ? I wasn't sure at first, but now I like it.
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KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
I like it :clapping:, It cleans things up.:cheers:
MBreinin
Well-Known Member
That looks great. I am actually a big fan of the looks of the stock exhaust...it is just too quiet for me.
Mike
Mike
Redbone
Well-Known Member
I saw somewhere that had drilled out the exhaust per normal. Then they tapped the rivet holes, reinstalled the caps with spacers and used allen headed bolts as fasteners. Looked really nice and kinda hightech-like.
Might have been on the South Africian Vmax website....:ummm:
Might have been on the South Africian Vmax website....:ummm:
I did this last night.
I used a riveter to add threads. I then used nuts to put the plate that I removed back on (but used 3 nuts) on three of the bolts to space it. (well then 2 o the other side because I ran out of nuts-but I can't tell a sound difference between the two sides)
I think the sound is perfect. It's a lot sharper/harsher and has a little bite to it, but it's not annoyingly loud (but close).
A couple of things I learned:
1) Use a 1/4'' drill bit to drill out the original rivets. I drilled for 10 minutes using a size to small.
2) Going into sears and asking for "something that will put something into metal, so that I can screw a bolt into" - will not help you. Oddly enough - that is a good enough description to work at Harbor Freight tools... (I know, I know!! I had to buy the riveter there... but it seems to have worked real well. The rivets are extremely strong, and I actually broke the heads off of two of the bolts, but the rivets held firm)
When you put the rivets in, you want to try and angle them as when you put the plate back on (but spaced away) the holes don't line up except on an angle.
I don't know if it messes up my carburetor, but I have to synch and mess with the pilot's anyways this week, so I did this first.
-JO
I used a riveter to add threads. I then used nuts to put the plate that I removed back on (but used 3 nuts) on three of the bolts to space it. (well then 2 o the other side because I ran out of nuts-but I can't tell a sound difference between the two sides)
I think the sound is perfect. It's a lot sharper/harsher and has a little bite to it, but it's not annoyingly loud (but close).
A couple of things I learned:
1) Use a 1/4'' drill bit to drill out the original rivets. I drilled for 10 minutes using a size to small.
2) Going into sears and asking for "something that will put something into metal, so that I can screw a bolt into" - will not help you. Oddly enough - that is a good enough description to work at Harbor Freight tools... (I know, I know!! I had to buy the riveter there... but it seems to have worked real well. The rivets are extremely strong, and I actually broke the heads off of two of the bolts, but the rivets held firm)
When you put the rivets in, you want to try and angle them as when you put the plate back on (but spaced away) the holes don't line up except on an angle.
I don't know if it messes up my carburetor, but I have to synch and mess with the pilot's anyways this week, so I did this first.
-JO
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