Fork oil

[firefly]

It is time to service the forks , Have 25k on them, what oil brand is recommended? I have racetech in them now but it is really pricey compared with other brands plus I have to wait for them to ship it.
What oil level should I set them at? I have a one inch internal lowering spacer and emulators.
Thanks for your time.
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[mikemax04]

It is time to service the forks , Have 25k on them, what oil brand is recommended? I have racetech in them now but it is really pricey compared with other brands plus I have to wait for them to ship it.
What oil level should I set them at? I have a one inch internal lowering spacer and emulators.
Thanks for your time.

Ibrahim, use Bel Ray Fork Oil from your dealer in the same viscosity as RaceTech you have now. If you're not sure, use 15 or 20 wt. With the springs and spacers out, push your forks completely closed.......to the top, and take your measurement of 5-5 1/2" from the top of the tubes.

 

[firefly]

Ibrahim, use Bel Ray Fork Oil from your dealer in the same viscosity as RaceTech you have now. If you're not sure, use 15 or 20 wt. With the springs and spacers out, push your forks completely closed.......to the top, and take your measurement of 5-5 1/2" from the top of the tubes.

Thanks Mike, how many turns do I set the emulators? I think Racetech had them set @ 3 turns but since I changed to a 17 inch front wheel the bike dives a little more, should I increase the number of turns to 4 or 5? to reduce the diving or use 20wt vs the 15 wt oil that is currently in the forks.
Thanks again for your help.
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[mikemax04]

Thanks Mike, how many turns do I set the emulators? I think Racetech had them set @ 3 turns but since I changed to a 17 inch front wheel the bike dives a little more, should I increase the number of turns to 4 or 5? to reduce the diving or use 20wt vs the 15 wt oil that is currently in the forks.
Thanks again for your help.

Ibrahim, you living in L.A., put the 20 wt. oil in. I'd also stiffen the emulators one turn and try it out. Also check to see if your springs have relaxed a bit by making sure there is still about an inch of preload. Have the tubes stick out of the top of the forks about 1/4" or so before replacing the caps.

 

[firefly]

Ibrahim, you living in L.A., put the 20 wt. oil in. I'd also stiffen the emulators one turn and try it out. Also check to see if your springs have relaxed a bit by making sure there is still about an inch of preload. Have the tubes stick out of the top of the forks about 1/4" or so before replacing the caps.

To my understanding the emulator is for compression damping while oil thickness ( wt in 10,15 or 20 ) is for rebound damping.
I think I am OK with the rebound damping the 15wt offers (a Little plush in potholes) while I want the same high speed damping ( as in a raised bump resulting in a quick fork compression) what I want to tune is the slow speed compression (as in front braking ) to reduce the dive after installing the 17 inch front wheel which has shifted the bike's wt a little forward.
The emulators are NOT a true anti dive device though its function as a compression damping device is superior to the stock fork setting no doubt about it.
I'll try 15 wt and 5 turns on the emulator and see how it feels, I hope it doesn't become too stiff in pothole and freeway expansion gaps that I face daily. I'll call race tech and ask them how to set it.
I will take it to the dealer since I don't have the tools necessary to do the job correctly the first time unless it is really simple to do with minimum tools???
Thanks for your help Mike.
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Ferrari 330

 

[maleko89]

If you want to minimize maintenance of the forks, use BG power steering fluid. Supposedly, you'll never have to change fork oil again. The only time you will, fork seal failures which will be much less likely with racetech fork springs. My seals went out every other year with stock springs. Now, all is well.

The same goes for BG final gear oil. You'll never have to change again. I did anyway this summer, there were no metal shavings on the magnetic drain bolt. This is indeed rare as every other final drive oil I used had metal shavings at oil change time.

Thanks to Sean Morley, he introduced me to the BG product line. Expensive, but well worth it.

 

[firefly]

If you want to minimize maintenance of the forks, use BG power steering fluid. Supposedly, you'll never have to change fork oil again. The only time you will, fork seal failures which will be much less likely with racetech fork springs. My seals went out every other year with stock springs. Now, all is well.

The same goes for BG final gear oil. You'll never have to change again. I did anyway this summer, there were no metal shavings on the magnetic drain bolt. This is indeed rare as every other final drive oil I used had metal shavings at oil change time.

Thanks to Sean Morley, he introduced me to the BG product line. Expensive, but well worth it.

I'll look into that, never heard of using power steering fluid in the forks ,
does it come in wts like the fork oils?
Does it feel smooth in the final drive? I used a little duralube in it and it feels smooth but I didn't check yet for metal shavings.
Thanks for sharing.
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[maleko89]

Ibrahim, me either. I've yet to try the power steering fluid, I need to check with Sean first.

As for the final drive, it seems to run cooler.

 

[firefly]

Ibrahim, me either. I've yet to try the power steering fluid, I need to check with Sean first.

As for the final drive, it seems to run cooler.

So Mark you want me to try it then tell you if it works LOL:argue000:
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[firefly]

I called racetech and they say oil level is 140 mm and to use 20 wt oil
and that oil level does not change with lowering the forks one inch internally.
So Mike you are correct 5.5 inch is the oil level that should be used.
They also set the emulator at 2 turns (default setting)if the forks were done at racetech site in CA.
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[mikemax04]

I called racetech and they say oil level is 140 mm and to use 20 wt oil
and that oil level does not change with lowering the forks one inch internally.
So Mike you are correct 5.5 inch is the oil level that should be used.
They also set the emulator at 2 turns (default setting)if the forks were done at racetech site in CA.

You mean I finally got something right?:surprise:
Lemi rite tat doun. :th_image003:

 

[firefly]

You mean I finally got something right?:surprise:
Lemi rite tat doun. :th_image003:

Some say 160 mm some say 21oz so at least I got 5.5 inch (140 mm) twice you and racetech so I'll go with that, the thing is I don't want to do it & then redo it again. I wanna I wanna ride I wanna ride:rocket bike:

 

[mikemax04]

Some say 160 mm some say 21oz so at least I got 5.5 inch (140 mm) twice you and racetech so I'll go with that, the thing is I don't want to do it & then redo it again. I wanna I wanna ride I wanna ride:rocket bike:

Ibrahim, you need to realize that the techies on Yahoo only go by the amount of oil to use on stock forks, that's all they know from reading the manual. If you lower the forks internally, that volume changes and becomes less. If you lower the bike by sliding the forks in the triple clamps, the volume stays the same, as you know.

 

[firefly]

Ibrahim, you need to realize that the techies on Yahoo only go by the amount of oil to use on stock forks, that's all they know from reading the manual. If you lower the forks internally, that volume changes and becomes less. If you lower the bike by sliding the forks in the triple clamps, the volume stays the same, as you know.

racetech service manager told me internal lowering does not affect oil level, I made it clear to him that my forks are lowered internally one inch and he still said to put 140 mm oil level.
I also thought that lowering internally would require less oil.
I just want to do it right the first time and not have any down time.
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[one2dmax]

The info about the BG products came from a person who worked in BG testing lab. He said that while it may say "power steering" on the label it is the same high grade fluid they use in the fork oil type products. I'm not sure what viscosity it is but you are looking for the "green" colored fluid and I do belive it is the synthetic stuff.

It is a non-corrosive fluid that should never turn brown like your other fluids since it isn't breaking down the aluminum.

Sean Morley

 

[firefly]

Since I have no oil leak from the seals I decided to bandaide the front diving problem by putting some air in each fork 10 psi using a bicycle pump, so far I like the results a Little firmer is all what was needed, I hope it holds the air.
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Chevrolet Cruze

 

[mikemax04]

racetech service manager told me internal lowering does not affect oil level, I made it clear to him that my forks are lowered internally one inch and he still said to put 140 mm oil level.
I also thought that lowering internally would require less oil.
I just want to do it right the first time and not have any down time.

RaceTech service manager is right. He, like myself, is talking about the level of the oil from the top of the tube. That measurement stays constant, no matter what you do internally as far as lowering. What changes is the AMOUNT (in ounces) that has to be used. You asked originally about the measurement from the top. As far as putting air in to tighten the front, it won't hold air very long in my experience. I'm not familiar with the emulators but my guess is that you should be able to remove them without taking the forks apart again. Ask someone in the know if they are removable through the top, don't see why not.

The whole thing is really simple. Remove the front tire, unscrew the socket head cap screws on the bottom of the forks to drain them. THEN go on top and remove the covers, the plugs with the air nipples in them, the spacers, washers, springs and emulators. Don't forget to place a container to catch the oil from the tubes. Push the tubes all the way up, this will make getting the guts out easier. Adjust the emulators and replace all in reverse order. Install the plugs and replace the bottom bolts snugly only if you find that they won't tighten up without putting pressure on the internals. Be sure to check your spacer for the correct preload on the springs. Even to 1/4" sticking out of the tube. Add washers to compensate for settling of the springs. Remove spring and spacer and add oil with the forks pushed all the way up as far as possible. Replace spring and spacers and screw on cap, being very careful not to damage treads. Sounds like a lot but isn't. Go over procedure several times in front of the bike before doing any wrenching and you'll see it's a piece of cake. You will save big $$$ and feel good about doing it yourself. If you have questions, there are many here to help.

 

[shawn kloker]

I am running racetech springs,!.0 rate.No emulaters.2 inch lowering blocks 10 weight oil,About 3 inches of preload.I loved this setup at first but now I think it sucks.I need to switch to 20 wt.oil soon.Wheelieing then letting off bottms out too soon.My springs seemed to have weakened slightly after breaking them in.20 wt.Should bring them back to where I like them,Low and stiff.

 

[firefly]

I am running racetech springs,!.0 rate.No emulaters.2 inch lowering blocks 10 weight oil,About 3 inches of preload.I loved this setup at first but now I think it sucks.I need to switch to 20 wt.oil soon.Wheelieing then letting off bottms out too soon.My springs seemed to have weakened slightly after breaking them in.20 wt.Should bring them back to where I like them,Low and stiff.

Talking to the tech at Works shocks I was told the spring rate thing is just 2 or 3 choices according to the rider's weight a 170-180 lb rider and the 200-250 rider so all the 096 and .001 are just gimmick to make it sound like the spring was made according to your DNA. he suggested drilling the compression holes like racetech does and putting a stiffer spring but I think the emulators offer a more controlled damping & tunability vs the oil/compression holes alone plus it is GOLD so it adds value to the bike:clapping:
Using 10 wt will be too soft and easy to bottom I think, I have 15wt oil and now since changing to 17 front wheel the bike dives with braking, the emulator is set at two turns so when it is time for fork service I'll go with 20wt and 4 turns on that thing. stiffer forks are better in turns but will give your shoulders and wrists a beating on bumpy roads.
Shawn I think you should try the emulators they have much better control in compression damping like when the front drops after a wheelie.
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[firefly]

The service manual says 21 fluid oz with 123 mm oil level so I guess the only difference when setting it with a one inch lowering and emulator is to measure the oil level while the fork is fully compessed , emulator in and spring out, if more oil is put that might cause the seals to fail.
Inner fork lowering does not affect the volume of fluid it carries, the emulator volume will be automatically factored in by having the emulator placed on the damping rod then adding the oil while the spring is out.

I remember when racetech did the forks, they always had a slight film which never happened with the stock,now I know why, they put more oil and it ends up seeping out , they recommend 140 mm. another factor is the volume of the racetech spring vs the stock spring

Are racetech springs thicker or thinner than stock?
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