Hard to start and there is a clicking noise ?

[gunrunner]

After 6 days of Max sitting in the shed i decided to fire her up , on turning the key i got a clicking noise and she was had to start could smell petrol and it was like she was flooded and then got her running without choke on . This has happened before when i havent been using her for about a week .
Is this normal ? As she usually fires up straight away .
Also the carbs need balancing , could that be an issue ?:ummm:

 

[dannymax]

After 6 days of Max sitting in the shed i decided to fire her up , on turning the key i got a clicking noise and she was had to start could smell petrol and it was like she was flooded and then got her running without choke on . This has happened before when i havent been using her for about a week .
Is this normal ? As she usually fires up straight away .
Also the carbs need balancing , could that be an issue ?:ummm:

Gunrunner-Did it turn over slower or the same as usual? Could it possibly be a weak battery?

 

[naughtyG]

The clicking noise is the electric fuel pump. When the bike sits for a while, fuel evaporates from the float chambers (via the vents), so when you first switch on the fuel pump clicks away to refill all 4 chambers.
The fuel smell and flooding could be due to dry float needles. The rubber tips work best when kept wet with with fuel. If the rubber goes dry for a period of time, it'll shrink a little, and on first contact, may not seal the needle valve properly. The float chambers could then get overfilled, overflow (explaining the smell) and some fuel can find its way into the cylinders (gravity).
Having said that, it shouldn't really get this bad in just six days, so it's possible that your float needles are on their way out anyway and could benefit from being replaced..

 

[COP RUNNER]

I THINK NAUGHTYG IS ON THE MONEY ! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$unk:

 

[gunrunner]

The clicking noise is the electric fuel pump. When the bike sits for a while, fuel evaporates from the float chambers (via the vents), so when you first switch on the fuel pump clicks away to refill all 4 chambers.
The fuel smell and flooding could be due to dry float needles. The rubber tips work best when kept wet with with fuel. If the rubber goes dry for a period of time, it'll shrink a little, and on first contact, may not seal the needle valve properly. The float chambers could then get overfilled, overflow (explaining the smell) and some fuel can find its way into the cylinders (gravity).
Having said that, it shouldn't really get this bad in just six days, so it's possible that your float needles are on their way out anyway and could benefit from being replaced..

That makes alot of sense as it has had a new battery in last 5 months , otherwise bike starts 1st pop every other time:clapping:

 

[gunrunner]

How differcult are they to replace ?:ummm:

 

[ssnsltd]

well, that depends on allot of things but:

if you have never rebuilt a carb before, bit of an issue. if you are mechanically inclined however, NaughtyG has a great write up on the entire process.

 

[gunrunner]

well, that depends on allot of things but:

if you have never rebuilt a carb before, bit of an issue. if you are mechanically inclined however, NaughtyG has a great write up on the entire process.

Will have a look , i also see that there is different kinds of needles out there
My 92 is stock so what sort of needles would be best for me and where is the best place to get them ?:confused2:

 

[naughtyG]

Will have a look , i also see that there is different kinds of needles out there
My 92 is stock so what sort of needles would be best for me and where is the best place to get them ?:confused2:

Bear in mind that there are two kinds of 'needles' and you may be getting them confused!

There is only one kind of 'float needle valve'. It's the thingy the float pushes up against the needle valve seat, sealing the fuel supply to the carb shut. Here's a float needle, you can just about see its conical rubber tip on the left, and the cylindrical brass bit in the left part of the circle is the valve seat:

Then there are 'jet needles', these actually regulate the fuel/air flow through the needle jets, and those are the ones you found many kinds of. This is because when you upgrade your exhausts, you need to compensate for the xtra outflow by re-jetting (increasing the in-flow), and often jet kits (stage 1, stage 7 etc) include different jets as well as needles.

On a stock '92, the best bet is the stock needles, and the float needle valves you may need to renew come in only one kind and must be gotten from Yamaha. Beware of 'kits' or aftermarket parts - they're just no good for such a critical part of the carburetor mechanism.
If a set of needle valves is stoopid expensive where you are, let us know and we can order them from Gary @ Mondak Motorsports and get 20% off. In fact you may be able to order them from him yourself - I'm sure he could also ship to down under!

 

[COP RUNNER]

HEY NAUGHTYG , MAN YOU TAKE SOME CLEAR PICTURES ! unk:

 

[naughtyG]

HEY NAUGHTYG , MAN YOU TAKE SOME CLEAR PICTURES ! unk:

Actually I was pissed 'cos the needle valve was out of focus! :rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200::rofl_200:

 

[gunrunner]

Bear in mind that there are two kinds of 'needles' and you may be getting them confused!

There is only one kind of 'float needle valve'. It's the thingy the float pushes up against the needle valve seat, sealing the fuel supply to the carb shut. Here's a float needle, you can just about see its conical rubber tip on the left, and the cylindrical brass bit in the left part of the circle is the valve seat:

Then there are 'jet needles', these actually regulate the fuel/air flow through the needle jets, and those are the ones you found many kinds of. This is because when you upgrade your exhausts, you need to compensate for the xtra outflow by re-jetting (increasing the in-flow), and often jet kits (stage 1, stage 7 etc) include different jets as well as needles.

On a stock '92, the best bet is the stock needles, and the float needle valves you may need to renew come in only one kind and must be gotten from Yamaha. Beware of 'kits' or aftermarket parts - they're just no good for such a critical part of the carburetor mechanism.
If a set of needle valves is stoopid expensive where you are, let us know and we can order them from Gary @ Mondak Motorsports and get 20% off. In fact you may be able to order them from him yourself - I'm sure he could also ship to down under!

Thanks man i will look into it , is it wise to replace these now or could it wait til my winter ?:confused2:

 

[naughtyG]

Thanks man i will look into it , is it wise to replace these now or could it wait til my winter ?:confused2:

It depends on how bad it is - if they leak you wanna replace them ASAP, as lots of fuel into the engine, oil, etc is a pretty bad idea..

 

[gunrunner]

It depends on how bad it is - if they leak you wanna replace them ASAP, as lots of fuel into the engine, oil, etc is a pretty bad idea..

Im not that mechanically minded but has a mate that is but is on holiday , what should i look for ? I took Max to work and started up no worries but if i leave her a week it a bit harder to start etc .:ummm:

 

[naughtyG]

Well this is a hard one.. There's not much you can look out for, other than the fact it's not starting well after a while. Does it smell of petrol? I guess you could also sniff at the oil filler hole after not running for a while and see if it smell of petrol?

To be honest, the only way to find out for sure is to remove the carbs, break the fuel bowls open, remove the floats, pull the float needle valves out and take a really good look at them with a magnifying glass.

There are full instructions with pictures on how to do this in the carbs section here. Look for 'replacing the main jets' for the carbs removal instructions, and my multi-part write up for the carbs overall.

 

[gunrunner]

Well this is a hard one.. There's not much you can look out for, other than the fact it's not starting well after a while. Does it smell of petrol? I guess you could also sniff at the oil filler hole after not running for a while and see if it smell of petrol?

To be honest, the only way to find out for sure is to remove the carbs, break the fuel bowls open, remove the floats, pull the float needle valves out and take a really good look at them with a magnifying glass.

There are full instructions with pictures on how to do this in the carbs section here. Look for 'replacing the main jets' for the carbs removal instructions, and my multi-part write up for the carbs overall.

Got up early this morning and as car had a flat battery proceded with getting the Max out of garage putting my gear on while she got warmed up .

1. She stalled and she never does this .

So i started it up again and was running fine until i got to the corner then started really running rough then kept stalling . By this stage i had had enough and babied it home and then walked to work .

So now i assume this does need doing , not much is gonna happen between Christmas and New year braek tho :ummm:

 

[naughtyG]

Well you could take the carbs off to inspect - it really is not that difficult especially with :worthy: Mark's instructions!

 

[gunrunner]

Im gonna pull the spark plugs and have a look 1st:confused2:

 

[82ndCowboy]

Im gonna pull the spark plugs and have a look 1st:confused2:

Did you try carb sync and seafoam?

 

[gunrunner]

Did you try carb sync and seafoam?

It does need a carb balance was bout to get on to that . Seafoam - have heard great things about that but sadly we dont have it here in NZ