Help please!

[KC Max]

I'm ready to beat my head against a wall:bang head:. I had a problem with the carbs being slightly out of sync. A friend said he had a sync tool and could help....let's just say the results were less than stellar. Now the bike will only run with choke, sounds incredibly sick when it is running, dies instantly when you try to blip the throttle, and occasionally likes to backfire for good measure. I purchased a Carbtune sync tool, but the bike is now so out of sorts, I can't seem to make any progress whatsoever. I am in desperate need of advice. For starters, where can I set the sync screws to start with that should at least put me in the ball park.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[gamorg02]

is your idle way off?

 

[[email protected]]

I'm ready to beat my head against a wall:bang head:. I had a problem with the carbs being slightly out of sync. A friend said he had a sync tool and could help....let's just say the results were less than stellar. Now the bike will only run with choke, sounds incredibly sick when it is running, dies instantly when you try to blip the throttle, and occasionally likes to backfire for good measure. I purchased a Carbtune tool, but the bike is now so out of sorts, I can't seem to make any progress whatsoever. I am in desperate need of advice. For starters, where can I set the sync screws to start with that should at least put me in the ball park.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

I'd say spend a few bucks and make a homemade synch tool. some 1/4" tubing, a couple "T" connectors, some kind of "manometer fluid" (I would use 2 stroke pre-mix, others say tranny fluid, etc) a plank of wood, and some electrical staples should suffice. I'd say less than $10 if you don't already have most of the stuff.

If you're against that you could always pull the rack and bench synch them.

Or, (now this is a really off the wall suggestion, and I highly doubt it would work but :confused2 look down in the airbox, open up the slides and see if you can get some kind of good reference point and if you can measure how far out of synch the throttle plates are??? Yeah, it sounds crazy but it just might do sumpin' LOL. If you had a dial or vernier caliper with that end part that sticks out for measurin' ya know. Make all carbs match #1 just like synching with a meter. All it takes is popping the top of the airbox. Even if you didn't have a proper caliper, anything could work. Hell, you could use a straw with a sharpie line drawn across it as your constant reference point to match taken from carb #1. OK, i'm done dreamin up this dumb idea.

It can't hurt if you're already that far out of synch right?

 

[4gasem]

I'd say spend a few bucks and make a homemade synch tool.

Why? He has a Carbtune that he just bought... :confused2::ummm:
How far away from Wichita are you? Sean Morley could probably get it set for cheap.

Other wise just hook up the carbtune and make sure you understand that the front left carb is static/not adjustable so you adjust the other three to be just like the one. It takes some time but it's totally doable. Check out the VMF links page for a how to guide...

Chris

 

[KJShover]

Just a shot in the dark, but were the right screws turned? I had a friend who needed help syncing his cause it kept getting more worse and it turned out he was playing with the A/F screws.

 

[gamorg02]

Just a shot in the dark, but were the right screws turned? I had a friend who needed help syncing his cause it kept getting more worse and it turned out he was playing with the A/F screws.

good pt

 

[KC Max]

I reviewed the FSM and the sticky here. I'm confident the right screws are being turned. If Sean was not 3+ hours away, the bike would have done been dumped at his door long ago. If I can't get this thing sorted, I may be making a road trip. I don't trust the stealerships around here to do any better job than my "friend" did in fixing the problem.

 

[vmaxride06]

I reviewed the FSM and the sticky here. I'm confident the right screws are being turned. If Sean was not 3+ hours away, the bike would have done been dumped at his door long ago. If I can't get this thing sorted, I may be making a road trip. I don't trust the stealerships around here to do any better job than my "friend" did in fixing the problem.

If Sean Morley lived only 3 hrs away from me and I am thinking most guys in this group, we would be camped out in his garage every weekend...really..:biglaugh: We know a couple guys on this forum who drove 12 hours in the saddle for some brownies..:clapping:

 

[one2dmax]

Topeka is closer and I will be there in two weeks!

Sean

 

[gleno]

Maybe someone (with a digital video camera) could post a video of 'how to sync the carbs' in the carbs section?

 

[Buster Hymen]

I reviewed the FSM and the sticky here. I'm confident the right screws are being turned. If Sean was not 3+ hours away, the bike would have done been dumped at his door long ago. If I can't get this thing sorted, I may be making a road trip. I don't trust the stealerships around here to do any better job than my "friend" did in fixing the problem.

Will the bike idle at all? As long as it is running, we can help you sync up the carbs. Tell us how much you know about how to sync and we will help you.

 

[mr.maxx]

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3959

 

[[email protected]]

Why? He has a Carbtune that he just bought... :confused2::ummm:
How far away from Wichita are you? Sean Morley could probably get it set for cheap.

Other wise just hook up the carbtune and make sure you understand that the front left carb is static/not adjustable so you adjust the other three to be just like the one. It takes some time but it's totally doable. Check out the VMF links page for a how to guide...

Chris

For some reason I had it in my head that he had just ordered the carbtune and was waiting on it and needed to synch it right now, in the meantime, while waiting for the carbtune to show. Why I thought that?? LOL. I can't say for sure. ASSupmtions are made all the time. Incorrectly I might add.

 

[MONTREALMAX]

If Sean Morley lived only 3 hrs away from me and I am thinking most guys in this group, we would be camped out in his garage every weekend...really..:biglaugh: We know a couple guys on this forum who drove 12 hours in the saddle for some brownies..:clapping:

I only wish I had a guy who knows the Max that well within 3 hours

I have considered trailing the bike down to a guru from the forum and I live in Montreal

My commute to work is almost 3 hours total both ways.....hit the road Jack !!!

 

[4gasem]

I only wish I had a guy who knows the Max that well within 3 hours

I have considered trailing the bike down to a guru from the forum and I live in Montreal

My commute to work is almost 3 hours total both ways.....hit the road Jack !!!

We've got three of our IT guys in Montreal this week. 2 drove from here... 16 hours... Add another 10 or so to get to Sean...

 

[KC Max]

I do appreciate the fact that Sean is three hours away, and I have driven to meet him, twice in fact. Do to personal issues I won't go into here, burning a day right now to travel to Wichita to work on my bike is off the table, but if the situation were different I would not hessitate.

I was trying to get my bike sorted out on my own. I have the tools and was hoping to get some direction after reaching a road block. I should have expanded more in my original post and not posted while frustrated.

After allowing someone else with a homemade sync tool to make an attempt to tune a slightly out of sync situation, I now have a way out of sync situation.

The bike will idle, but it is an incredibly rough idle requiring choke. With full choke, upon initial start-up the bike will spike to about 5K rpm and then drop to about 1K. I attempted to calibrate the left side first, then transitioned to the right side. I even had the four carbs showing equalized vacuum, but the bike didn't sound any better, still would not run without about 1/2 choke, and would die as soon as you blipped the throttle. Attemt to restart the bike and usually would get a back fire and then the high idle situation again before settling back into a rough idle. During the high idle I can see that I've got pressure all over the place for the four carbs.
I've tackled this a few times, and each time I think I am making progress (sync looks good and able to bring the choke in further and further) the bike never really starts to sound like it should, and it will still die if you hit the throttle or if you pull the choke in all the way.

In posting up I was looking to see if someone might have a suggestion as to something I may be missing, or overlooking in my frustration. Again, I appreciate the assitance anyone may be able to offer, and if worse comes to worse, I'll be loading it up and hauling it over to Topeka at the end of the month. I'm just hoping I may be able to beat this problem before then.

 

[dannymax]

Mitch-when was the last time you changed the fuel filter and did the shotgun? If it's been awhile, that might be a good place to start.

Your idle circuits may be plugged up.

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/shotgun.htm

danny

 

[mr.maxx]

i agree with the above. sounds like u have more than just a synch issue. sounds like dirty carbs as well.

 

[jfeagins]

Mitch-when was the last time you changed the fuel filter and did the shotgun? If it's been awhile, that might be a good place to start.

Your idle circuits may be plugged up.

danny

+1 one on that!

I had these identical conditions. I did the peashooter routine and readjusted the mixture screws and my idle came back close enough to sync the carbs. Then as for the rest of the rough idle, it was pointed out to be way too much Sea Foam added to the tank. After running long enough to work better gas into the carbs, most of my idle problems came into line. (Thanks again Sean Morley for pointing that one out to me.) :worthy:

 

[Firewrench]

I

The bike will idle, but it is an incredibly rough idle requiring choke. With full choke, upon initial start-up the bike will spike to about 5K rpm and then drop to about 1K. I attempted to calibrate the left side first, then transitioned to the right side. I even had the four carbs showing equalized vacuum, but the bike didn't sound any better, still would not run without about 1/2 choke, and would die as soon as you blipped the throttle. Attemt to restart the bike and usually would get a back fire and then the high idle situation again before settling back into a rough idle. During the high idle I can see that I've got pressure all over the place for the four carbs.

Perhaps you have vacum leaks. Excess air will give you a lean high idle requiring the choke to compensate with additional fuel. Give the carb to manifold boots a shot of carb cleaner while its running and see if it smooths out a bit. Cracks in the boots are not good, mine has a few but they don't go all the way through. Loose clamps might do it too. Also check the o-rings under the manifold with a shot of carb clean while its running. Any of those locations will mess up the mix bad. Running the engine without the airbox cover in place will make it go wacky too. Try to do these tests with the airbox in place.
Good luck sir.
Paul