Help, rear axlel too short!

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flyordie60

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Hi, Im trying to fit (actually not me but mechanics at yamaha in Peru) 17 " cycleone off wheel in my 98 vmax, but the mechanics told me that the axle is too short..I move the washer form right to left as I read some forums..but still keep short, Im attaching 2 pics..the nut its not the original its a short one..still you can notice that the axle seem short...any suggestion please??
thanks
 

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The mechanic IS tightening the nut with the pinch bolt loose, it does appear loose in the pic? That's all I can think off. You hold the axle through the hole drilled in the end, on the right side, torque the left side nut (30 ft lbs here, I know the book calls for more), Then secure the pnch bolt on the right side.
Also, the washer is the origina sizel? That looks way short in the pic, the axle. Measure the wheel and compare it to the OEM total width? I don't see the washer swap helping with the axle length, it just relocates the wheel to the right. Tom from COO would be the one I'd talk to. Someone else here may see something I'm not.
Steve

Steve
 
Yeah, I wrote TOm, just waiting for his answer, just want to know..maybe someone knows where is the problem here..thanks anyway..
 
First off, make sure the shop has everything assembled properly!

Is the only change to the bike the wheel? Is it the same axle and differential? Yamaha made changes to the differential and axle over the years. The older differentials are a bit wider and use a longer axle. These axles use a castellated nut and a cotter pin to secure the nut.

The wheel/spacers/and caliper may be wider since modified by COO. Again, ask Tom.

If you have a newer style axle you could switch it out with an older one. They are about 1/4" longer. You could also eliminate the washer that goes against the caliper bracket, not that you would gain much.
 
Is the wheel cog properly seated on the diff one? Isn't the swingarm stretched open? Was it easy to fit the rear brake bracket without spreading the swingarm arm? Thats not supposed to happen to begin with...
 
Im still waiting for Tom reply...I only change the wheel..I didnt receive nothing more from Tom..just the wheel, i put a 180/55/17 metzeler Z6...its the same axle and differential..maybe I need to get the older axle...my axle dont have a cotter pin..my bike is from 1997..I think theres only 5 or 6 VMAX in Peru..and maybe this is the first one in the yamaha repair shop...so the mechanics are not so skilled in this bike.. :(
 
The wheel center spacing can affect the axle protrusion from the diff. If the stackup isn't quite the same it will make that change. Can't quite tell from the looks but the washer fitting in the rear wheel seal area doesn't look correct (might be backwards).

It also looks like the remaining gap after installing the wheel isn't as much as stock. Could be thicker hub center?

The wider arm width (like we do when we offset the diff on our extended arms) has no effect on the protrusion of the axle from the diff side. It does however change how much axle sticks out the brake side of the arm.

Your axle doesn't seem to be seated in as far as stock.

Sean
 
tightening down the nut should bring the axle through, and it looks like the pinch bolt is loose too. i agree with these guys the spacer that goes on the ball bearing (brake) side looks like its sticking out. how loose is the spacer/sleeve between the bearings?

also i'd get a measurement from each wheel widths and compare.

also if you swapped over your 6 fingered wheel cush drive hub thing make sure thats fully seated. theres a circlip that goes on it, make sure it can go. i could see that sticking up 1/4" or so and binding instead of seating properly.
 
Thanks guys, this is a pic before they change the washer from right to left, so now is a little more protude in the axle , but still not enought! The hub is supposed to be the same, i will go tomorror tho repair shop and measure the hubs..man is terrible not to have my bike ready..
 
I was at the repair shop today and take some pics, I hope somebody can help me..please let me know what do you think about my idea in pic number 1...is it safe to do this?..

Pic 1 : This is a pic on axle..im thinking about machinnig 6mm there, so the axle can go deeper...do you think this is a good idea?
Pic 2 :there is a space there...the wheel is already mount.
Pic 3 : This is the side pic of the wheel you ask for.
Pic 4 :I made dismount the wheel to take a pic..can you see something wrong here?
Pic 5 : Dismount differencial
Pic 6 :A closer pic without the spacer..I already put in the right side.
Pic 7 : 2 Thing to see here, first check the original nut, and the axle..too short...also, check the swingarm, is very close to the tire, is this normal? this is a 180/55/17 Z6 metzeler.
Pic 8 :a closer look in the axle and nut.
 

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Don't machine the axle. It may break. Is your swingarm straight? Was it hard to fit the rear brake bracket on the right side? i think your swingarm is stretched open. Are the bearings properly seated and if so does this rim have the same width between bearings as the vmax stock rim? if its wider its spreading the swingarm and not allowing the brake bracket to slide in easily... If the shims/spacers have the proper length and the rim has the same width between bearings you MUST have the axle seat properly and not like that... Has that rim been installed already on another bike with no issues? (it seems like a used one)... Check if the splined hub is seating properly on the diff gear, check that when you rotate the wheel the drive shaft turns as well
 
What's the bushing/spacer under the brake stay in picture number 6? That isn't the stock one and may be holding the axle out too far? It would be noticed by comparing the pad location in the rear caliper. If you look down into the body of the caliper you should have it pretty well centered in the hole. If I am thinking right it's not centered.

Sean
 
What's the bushing/spacer under the brake stay in picture number 6? That isn't the stock one and may be holding the axle out too far? It would be noticed by comparing the pad location in the rear caliper. If you look down into the body of the caliper you should have it pretty well centered in the hole. If I am thinking right it's not centered.

Sean


My english is a real problem also..im putting a green circle in the pic...thats the spacer are you talking about?...I can go back and check this piece again with the manual service..
 

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Don't machine the axle. It may break. Is your swingarm straight? Was it hard to fit the rear brake bracket on the right side? i think your swingarm is stretched open. Are the bearings properly seated and if so does this rim have the same width between bearings as the vmax stock rim? if its wider its spreading the swingarm and not allowing the brake bracket to slide in easily... If the shims/spacers have the proper length and the rim has the same width between bearings you MUST have the axle seat properly and not like that... Has that rim been installed already on another bike with no issues? (it seems like a used one)... Check if the splined hub is seating properly on the diff gear, check that when you rotate the wheel the drive shaft turns as well

I was not there when they put the brake bracket....and yes the drive shaft turns..
 
You don't have a newer axle with an older differential do you? Newer axles are shorter, older differentials are wider.

Dale #2592
 
My english is a real problem also..im putting a green circle in the pic...thats the spacer are you talking about?...I can go back and check this piece again with the manual service..

You had it right in the other pic-the washer. I'm thinking it's not the problem with the axle though. I'd make sure the spline assembly is right like Garrett mentioned. And the bearing seated correctly on the spline side? At this point, width, and length measurments need to be compared to OEM parts you were using before. Veebooster may have just solved the problem. I myself wasn't aware of that difference.
Steve
 
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I was at the repair shop today and take some pics, I hope somebody can help me..please let me know what do you think about my idea in pic number 1...is it safe to do this?..

Pic 1 : This is a pic on axle..im thinking about machinnig 6mm there, so the axle can go deeper...do you think this is a good idea?
Pic 2 :there is a space there...the wheel is already mount.
Pic 3 : This is the side pic of the wheel you ask for.
Pic 4 :I made dismount the wheel to take a pic..can you see something wrong here?
Pic 5 : Dismount differencial
Pic 6 :A closer pic without the spacer..I already put in the right side.
Pic 7 : 2 Thing to see here, first check the original nut, and the axle..too short...also, check the swingarm, is very close to the tire, is this normal? this is a 180/55/17 Z6 metzeler.
Pic 8 :a closer look in the axle and nut.

The 6th pic? Does this look wrong to anyone else? The space I mean.
Steve
 
lots of good questions here. is the only thing that was swapped was the rim? same axle/differential/swingarm? if so its something on the rim. I wouldn't mess with axle/diff or anything if they all worked before. i'm not sure when then switched from the cotter pin nut to the self locking one.

the 180 tire shouldn't be an issue but without knowing offset it 'might' be hitting the swingarm and not sitting all the way in(unlikely). it can be very close (piece of paper) and be ok. mine is a few sheets of paper away from the swingarm.

the cush drive looks like its seated all the way (and the circlip looks to be in place) but it still looks like theres a decent gap between the wheel and differential. is there something else thats stopping it from seating? take the differential off the bike. put both rims on the ground (rotor side down) and put the differential on them. finding a static place on the differential measure from there to say the flat spot where the cush drive is on both rims. make sure thast the same. that distance looks too big to me.
 
Instead of messeing with the axle, can you machine the brake bracket down on one side? That should move everything over to the right and give you enough clearance for the axle nut. My caliper bracket had to be machined down a bit but I have 190 tire and just about enough clearance on each side to fit a sheet of paper. With your 180 there should be no clearance issues. I would take off the caliper bracket, bolt everything up without it and see if the tire hits anywhere on the swingarm, if not then just machine the bracked down and it should solve your problem.

Looks like you are short the gap that is in picture two, not sure why there is such a gap, maybe the way the wheel was welded up???
 

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