Hot start

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foxy54

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Joined
Aug 28, 2013
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Location
Bristol
Hi everybody, I live in the UK and am fairly new to the Max, I enjoy the bike but not the problems it comes with. That is to say the hot start issues, I am waiting for a grounding kit upgrade to arrive. But research has also suggested a battery upgrade to an Odyssey PC680. My only concern is does this particular battery slot straight into the existing battery tray.
Has anyone put one on theirs?:ummm:
 
Did you have the hot start problem?

No, Foxy, I haven't done the mod, because I've not had the problem.
Others may correct me, but the issue is related to the earlier 2-pole starter motors, which I believe your bike would have. Yamaha eventually changed to a 4-pole model, which essentially eliminated the hot start problem.
Lots of archived info in this forum.
and by the way.....Welcome to the group!:punk:
 
Thanks. I have read about the 2 pole and 4 pole differences, and if I'm honest would go with the 4 pole upgrade if I were 100% confident it would cure the problem. But you know how it is with things mechanical you can chuck a bucketful of money at them and eventually solve a problem and maybe never know what sorted it. Thanks for the welcome.
 
Thanks. I have read about the 2 pole and 4 pole differences, and if I'm honest would go with the 4 pole upgrade if I were 100% confident it would cure the problem. But you know how it is with things mechanical you can chuck a bucketful of money at them and eventually solve a problem and maybe never know what sorted it. Thanks for the welcome.

You've probably also read about the infamous Vmax charging issues. If your bike only starts poorly when hot, the charging system probably is not contributing to the problem.
But to be on the safe side, you could monitor available battery voltage before starting when cold, then do the same after the bike has warmed up.
For a complete guide to checking the charging system, refer to the first "sticky" in the How To forum.
Cheers!
 
I haven't looked at available battery voltage cold or hot but only when the bike is running, and I have 13.5 volts at the battery terminals on tickover.
To be honest one thing I really think sucks is not being able to switch the bloody lights off.
 
I haven't looked at available battery voltage cold or hot but only when the bike is running, and I have 13.5 volts at the battery terminals on tickover.
To be honest one thing I really think sucks is not being able to switch the bloody lights off.

13 1/2 at idle is good, your bike probably produces 14+ at full stator output rpm (5000).
A headlight interupter switch is a very common modification. Just involves splicing into the green (low beam, aka "dip") wire. High beam operation not effected. I did mine years ago. During daytime riding, I switch off the low beam, and run with dual spot lights. Folks tell me this is much more visible than the single headlight. The high beam is always just a thumb flick away, to be used as a passing light (I believe British/European bikes already have this feature), or for increased visibility around town - those pesky intersections in particular.
Cheers!
 
I haven't looked at available battery voltage cold or hot but only when the bike is running, and I have 13.5 volts at the battery terminals on tickover.
To be honest one thing I really think sucks is not being able to switch the bloody lights off.

Just wire in a switch and you can do this (already have)
 
Quick update. I have done the ground upgrade and it's made the world of difference as I'm now getting 14.5 volts at idle. The battery won't hold a charge though so a new battery I reckon.
 
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