Idle mixture screw hole is covered, how to get it out?

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Ted J

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I have everything taken part on the carbs but I can't get the idle mixture screw out for the hole is covered. I know I could drill it out but would feel stupid if there was an easy way to get it out and not having to do that.

I've attached a picture of what I'm talking about, how do I get that out? They are the Mikuni (sp?) carbs and it's off of a '94 VMAX.

Thanks!

Ted
 

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Got to the hardware store and get a self-tapping screw. Screw it in a couple of turns and then pull out with a locking pliers.
 
Welcome to VMF Ted!

I thought there was a sticky or write up about this somewhere, but here's the jist of how to do it. All you need is a drill and a suitable small wood screw. They put the anti-tamper plugs there for emissions reasons so you couldn't mess with the mixture. Bah! What does the EPA know about performance?

Drill a small hole in the center of the plug...like maybe 3/16th" or so. The actual needle is recessed pretty far back there, so don't be too paranoid about hitting the adjustment screw. Once you've done that stuff the wood screw in there and give it a few turns until it gets a good "bite". Then grab the screw with a pair of pliers and yank it. They should come out without much of a fight. I've done this admittedly not on the Vmax, but several times on small engines with tamper-proof(so they think) carbs.

You might also have one anti-tamper(it's really just a Torx) screw over your diaphragm covers also(I assume to prevent people from messing with the needle or air jet). To make things easier down the road you may want to replace it with a hex head like the others.
 
Welcome to VMF Ted!

I thought there was a sticky or write up about this somewhere, but here's the jist of how to do it. All you need is a drill and a suitable small wood screw. They put the anti-tamper plugs there for emissions reasons so you couldn't mess with the mixture. Bah! What does the EPA know about performance?

Drill a small hole in the center of the plug...like maybe 3/16th" or so. The actual needle is recessed pretty far back there, so don't be too paranoid about hitting the adjustment screw. Once you've done that stuff the wood screw in there and give it a few turns until it gets a good "bite". Then grab the screw with a pair of pliers and yank it. They should come out without much of a fight. I've done this admittedly not on the Vmax, but several times on small engines with tamper-proof(so they think) carbs.

You might also have one anti-tamper(it's really just a Torx) screw over your diaphragm covers also(I assume to prevent people from messing with the needle or air jet). To make things easier down the road you may want to replace it with a hex head like the others.

Thank you for the welcome!

I've gotten the anti-tamper screws out and am in the process of getting some stainless allen head bolts to replace them with since I had to drill out a few of them. Seems my luck is there is ALWAYS a few stuck screws when working on carbs!

Off to have more fun with the carbs, thanks for the quick replies and the info guys!

Ted
 

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