New Stator 3rd R/R Still no Charge

[godsend1]

Well guys, I am at a loss. Last year I replaced my battery with an Odyssey.

That's when the problems started. I tested and found the R/R had failed.

I replaced it with a new model from Sean. He also sent a spare Stator. I replaced both and got good voltage 13.2/14.4. I replaced the stator Sean sent with my original and the voltage stayed the same. 13.2/14.4.

After about 2 weeks the R/R failed. Sean replaced it under warranty. The same thing happened about 2 weeks and the R/R failed.

I have just bought a new Stator from Rick's, and a new R/R about 3 weeks ago. The same thing has happened.

Not sure what to do at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[godsend1]

All connections are soldered. Crimp fix also done. All these were done last year when this started.

 

[alorio1]

If the stator is still good I would do the R1 mod...........

 

[godsend1]

I have burned up 2 new model R/R's, and the current is an aftermarket oem style. I need to figure out why the R/R's are dying.

 

[godsend1]

If I can convince myself to spend the $ I will try the R1 style.

 

[alorio1]

I would be sure and use independent wire and not your wire harness to feed rect. Then go straight to battery with the heavier wire also.

 

[Redbone]

My brother was having charging issues with his FZ1, he was told his Stator was bad, then R/R, replaced 2 y.o. battery, chased down all of his wiring or so he thought, It ended up being a bad connector from the R/R. Although he wasn't having your same exact issue of burning up R/R's, when first connectedit would charge, but once he would get it up to operating temp it wouldn't charge and start draining the battery. He probably spent over $400 for a bad connector on the R/R to battery.:bang head:

 

[jfeagins]

Have all these dead R/R's had their own separate ground wires? Or were they the OEM style which grounds through it's own body and into the frame? Just curious.

 

[godsend1]

The first 2 had independent grounds that I ran directly to the battery. The current grounds through the body of the R/R, I have a wire between the R/R and frame running to the battery.

 

[maleko89]

What are your volts AC coming out of the stator? Sound like it's too much and cooking the R/R's.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

Do a continuity check on the stator wires. You may have broken wires and that may cause electrical bursts on the RR with vibration... One place where they can be bad is next to the clutch bleeder or even on its internals.
Often the stator has failed and the regulator gets the blame. A stator is difficult to check completely as they often fail only when hot.
These simple checks will find some bad stators, but a stator that passes these checks may still be defective.
1. Check the resistance between the leads, this is normally under 1 or 2 ohms. The resistance between each of the 3 lead combination's (AB,AC,BC) should be equal. If you see higher resistance, or unequal resistances, the stator is bad.
2. Check the resistance to ground, it should be well over 10 Mohm.

Battery condition is important. No regulator can make up for a bad or weak battery.
If in doubt charge your battery and have it load tested, or simply replace it.
ALWAYS START WITH A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY

 

[godsend1]

A quick question about stators, can the stator be good and the rotor cause the problem to the R/R?

The stator always tested good, about 50v per leg and correct resistance. I decided to replace my stator last month because the bike was still eating R/R's, NaughtyG also had a similar problem that ended up being the stator.

Also, if I have replaced the stator with new aftermarket and the same symptoms exist doesn't that eliminate the stator as the source of the issue?

 

[wildweasel_pt]

In that case you need to work on from there... You only have little items inbetween the stator and battery. Check one by one in order so to eliminate one by one till you get to the battery. you may also have a defective battery...

 

[godsend1]

The battery was a new odyssey last April. That was when my 1st R/R burned up. The battery holds a charge very well.

 

[wildweasel_pt]

I can't see of nothing more to look at mate. you have to do the troubleshooting step by step and see if you can catch the malfunction

 

[firefly]

it looks like you have a bad harness which is very common with max, mine was bad since new 2003 causing me to replace stator, RR & stock battery.
I finally connected the +ve RR to the battery with a 30 amp fuse and connected the -ve RR to a good grounding point to the frame (using the so called bad RR that was replaced earlier by the dealer).

Well guys, I am at a loss. Last year I replaced my battery with an Odyssey.

That's when the problems started. I tested and found the R/R had failed.

I replaced it with a new model from Sean. He also sent a spare Stator. I replaced both and got good voltage 13.2/14.4. I replaced the stator Sean sent with my original and the voltage stayed the same. 13.2/14.4.

After about 2 weeks the R/R failed. Sean replaced it under warranty. The same thing happened about 2 weeks and the R/R failed.

I have just bought a new Stator from Rick's, and a new R/R about 3 weeks ago. The same thing has happened.

Not sure what to do at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

A quick question about stators, can the stator be good and the rotor cause the problem to the R/R?

The stator always tested good, about 50v per leg and correct resistance. I decided to replace my stator last month because the bike was still eating R/R's, NaughtyG also had a similar problem that ended up being the stator.

Also, if I have replaced the stator with new aftermarket and the same symptoms exist doesn't that eliminate the stator as the source of the issue?

The rotor is simply the flywheel and the magnets built into it...Nothing to wear there...

 

[godsend1]

Well, fried my 3rd, or is it 4th R/R. Ricks Motorsports discounted me a Mosfet type that I am mounting under the pillion.

Mounting thread here:

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=213537#post213537