New vmax owner headshake

[gamorg02]

Thanks Bro, me too. I pulled her apart last night and the bottom race was all grooved up. Like I guesses, I was riding in a groove dead center. The berings still are together but worn and a little rusty. Todays project, swap the races and bearings out. The nothiness was really felt once I removed everything from the trees.

like i said i have the tool for the bottom race if you need it! i was weary dremelling it out not seeing where i could hit the neck. i'll be around tonight if u wanted to swing by for a bit! beautiful night to ride. i'd meet u halfway but i'm on baby duty.

 

[sdt354]

like i said i have the tool for the bottom race if you need it! i was weary dremelling it out not seeing where i could hit the neck. i'll be around tonight if u wanted to swing by for a bit! beautiful night to ride. i'd meet u halfway but i'm on baby duty.

Offer appreciated, but I'm reay ro reassemble. I'll take a rain check on a ride, soon too G.

 

[donnelly317]

Yea I just used a dremel. Went into the frame a little but u have to to get threw the race. A tool would've been nicer but I didn't have one.. on slit in the frame isn't gonna harm anything. Then next time u the same spot.. wam bam thank you mam

 

[gamorg02]

i hear ya, i just want to see if this tool i got then modd'd works as good for someone else! heh

 

[RaWarrior]

Hate to be so blunt, but if you want a bike that's stable at high speeds, you bought the wrong one.

I struggled with the high speed wobble issue for 4 seasons. I tried everything, including
-new head bearings, at various tensions
-fresh tires, at various pressures
-Progressive springs, 1" lowering blocks
-sliding forks up/down trees
-various settings on rear shocks
-Removing flyscreen/sissy bar
-fork brace
-frame braces

Some things made an improvement but it was never stable much past 90 or so. It was possible to make top end runs to 140+, given perfectly smooth/straight roads, the riding posture, and it was the second Tuesday in the month, it wouldn't shake, but you could tell it was always right on the edge of doing so. Leaning it over much past 85-90 usually ended up with a nervous, shaky feeling that encouraged you to back off.

Here's my tips/best setup....
Metzeler ME880 tires, 110 front 170 rear. 32psi front 36psi rear (I found over-inflating to have no noticeable effect, though underinflated tires most definitely made it worse)
Progressive fork springs, zero air psi, 1" internal lowering
Head bearings set "3 good taps" past what the bounce check suggests. The bars would not fall to the stop on their own. A bit tighter and a low speed weave emerged. This was a lot of trial-and-error and I found this to be the best.
Forks slid up trees 3/4"
Rear shocks set at minimum preload and maximum damping. I weigh around 180-185 in gear. Again, more trial and error.
Feet on highway pegs at speed. For whatever reason, this instantly made the bike more stable than if they were on the regular control pegs.
Keep a loose grip on handlebars (i.e relax the death grip, pulling back on bars makes wobble worse)
Don't shift gears past 100 (if exceeding 100, run up in fifth, don't wind out 4th before shifting)

In the end, I ended up selling my Max because I couldn't fix this problem. Drove me absolutely nuts. Finally realized that this bike just wasn't made for high speed operation. It was designed to blast between stoplights. Intended for acceleration, the high top speed was kind of a side effect Yamaha didn't seem to pay a whole lot of attention to.

 

[sdt354]

+1 Ryan. The Vmax frame doesn't instill confidence at very high speeds. The engine is more capable than the frame/suspension, even after upgrades. Cruising at 85 is never an issue. An occasional run into tree digits is ok too. But for sustained very high speed? I have to agree. Acceleration is what it does best, and is what I like about a Vmax. It's a comfortable ride also. IMHO

 

[Saint]

Thanks for the honesty. I didnt want another sportbike, but I wanted the speed of one so I narrowed it down to the vmax. I had a feeling I would either have to learn to live with it or sell. Just bugs me how my dad and others I know never had a wobble with their vmax, but so many others do. There is no real need to go that fast anyway but it would be nice if I could do the 1/4 mile at least. You're dead right about hard shifting 4th to 5th opposed to a 5th roll on. I guess there is no perfect bike for what im after but the vmax is fucking close.

 

[Saint]

Anyway, I want to thank everyone again for all the help. I got the bolt out (lots of blood, sweat, and beers) and replaced it with a better hardware store one with blue loctite. The ride to work felt good although I took it easy. I really like how the bike feels now with the forks raised an inch. Thanks and have a good weekend!

 

[Rollie]

Hate to be so blunt, but if you want a bike that's stable at high speeds, you bought the wrong one.

I struggled with the high speed wobble issue for 4 seasons. I tried everything, including
-new head bearings, at various tensions
-fresh tires, at various pressures
-Progressive springs, 1" lowering blocks
-sliding forks up/down trees
-various settings on rear shocks
-Removing flyscreen/sissy bar
-fork brace
-frame braces

Some things made an improvement but it was never stable much past 90 or so. It was possible to make top end runs to 140+, given perfectly smooth/straight roads, the riding posture, and it was the second Tuesday in the month, it wouldn't shake, but you could tell it was always right on the edge of doing so. Leaning it over much past 85-90 usually ended up with a nervous, shaky feeling that encouraged you to back off.

Here's my tips/best setup....
Metzeler ME880 tires, 110 front 170 rear. 32psi front 36psi rear (I found over-inflating to have no noticeable effect, though underinflated tires most definitely made it worse)
Progressive fork springs, zero air psi, 1" internal lowering
Head bearings set "3 good taps" past what the bounce check suggests. The bars would not fall to the stop on their own. A bit tighter and a low speed weave emerged. This was a lot of trial-and-error and I found this to be the best.
Forks slid up trees 3/4"
Rear shocks set at minimum preload and maximum damping. I weigh around 180-185 in gear. Again, more trial and error.
Feet on highway pegs at speed. For whatever reason, this instantly made the bike more stable than if they were on the regular control pegs.
Keep a loose grip on handlebars (i.e relax the death grip, pulling back on bars makes wobble worse)
Don't shift gears past 100 (if exceeding 100, run up in fifth, don't wind out 4th before shifting)

In the end, I ended up selling my Max because I couldn't fix this problem. Drove me absolutely nuts. Finally realized that this bike just wasn't made for high speed operation. It was designed to blast between stoplights. Intended for acceleration, the high top speed was kind of a side effect Yamaha didn't seem to pay a whole lot of attention to.

Did you ever upgrade the shocks ?

 

[sdt354]

New bearings and races in and adjusted. Solid as a rock at 115mph. No weave. Wack the grips and it comes right back to center with no shake. I'll take it.
Not enough road to go any faster on the Cape today. Friday is tourist day.But further testing is comming soon. I couldn't resist powder coating the ugly OEM color trees and corroded looking air manifold, and large top bearing cover.
Steve-o

 

[RaWarrior]

Did you ever upgrade the shocks ?

No. The good Progressive rears are $500+, and from what I heard, overall effect on performance was marginal. Not worth the coin, and by that point I was getting pretty tired of throwing money at this problem and having nothing to show for it.

 

[Saint]

So I think I'll try replacing the steering head bearing. Is there any specific place to get them from? I'm assuming the manual will walk me through this, but are there any special tools or tricks for the job? I did a google search and found links on how to tighten them only.

 

[DMAN999]

From the Microfiche:
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeI...045/Model/VMX12/GroupID/244273/Group/STEERING
1 - 93332-00079-00 BEARING (93332-00001-00) ​

2 - 93332-00008-00 BEARING

3 - 1J7-23415-00-00 “COVER, BALL RACE 1” ​

4 - 90179-25033-00 NUT
5 - 90202-26142-00 “WASHER, PLATE”
6 - 26H-23418-01-00 “WASHER, SPECIAL”
7 - 90179-22455-00 “NUT, CROWN”

Ron Ayers has good prices on the OEM Parts:
http://www.ronayers.com/
Just search for the Part Numbers of the parts you need.​

 

[ninjaneer]

So I think I'll try replacing the steering head bearing. Is there any specific place to get them from? I'm assuming the manual will walk me through this, but are there any special tools or tricks for the job? I did a google search and found links on how to tighten them only.

There are some writeups in the forum. Enter this into google "+site:vmaxforum.net steering bearings replace -tighten"
The bottom bearing and race are a bitch

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android

 

[donnelly317]

http://vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=3827


This is what I went by when replacing my forks with an 05. Front end.

I can post more when I get home. But I used a dremel to cut a slot into races. U have to go into the frame seat for races but wont effect anything. Then the races came right out.. I used all balls bearings. Just the lower bearing dust seal I had to dremel out the openening in the metal.. you will need a press and a long tube to push new bearing on triple tree... I used a chisel and hammer to get it off. Kyle said he uses all balls too. I can get u a P/N when I get home.. I think they were 30 for the set of 2.. start disassembling and really clean and inspect them.. home you know how to pack bearings.. or just go to Napa ir harbor freight and get a bearing packer.. cheaper to do it by hand tho

 

[Saint]

wow thanks, I didnt realize cutting was involved, I'll have a closer look at the links you posted once I'm on my laptop tonight (on my phone now)

 

[donnelly317]

Look at page 7 of this thread gamorg have a tool..maybe he can post some pics and u could make one up
. Yea im on my phone to that's why I said I can post more later

 

[[email protected]]

I like the dannymax notch. Great idea he came up with there. Just grind a little goove inside steering head above the race and punch it out. Only took a few minutes.

 

[Saint]

Has anyone else ever noticed an excessive amount of grease around that shiny plate just below the castle nuts that you tighten for the bounce test? When I first washed the bike I had to take a rag to it there was so much I didnt realize the plate was polished, thought it was black. That's why after the bounce test with no luck I feel my bearings are shot. If it was worn, would it release lots of its grease? just a reminder this is an 07 with 6000Km

Edit: shiny plate I refer to is the bearing cover (just looked at the manual)

 

[sdt354]

Well the pinch bolt for the front axle and the front axle were both loose. Now I feel really lucky to be here. Tightend them up with blue locktite and pop goes the pinch bolt. 5 days til the dealer gets one in and I still gotta get the broken bolt out. not having a great day.

Ok, you are loosening them before adjusting, why buy from the dealer? A drill and easy-out should take that broken one out withhout major pain. It's easy to get a good center on an allen head.