4gasem
Well-Known Member
You only need one fork brace...:whistlin: Well unless you have more than one Vmax that is...:clapping:
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You only need one fork brace...:whistlin: Well unless you have more than one Vmax that is...:clapping:
Shit, I mean frame braces. lol
I already have a fork brace.
Just testing ya. :rofl_200:
Mark
#1098
I already have a fork brace.
Just testing ya. :rofl_200:
Mark
#1098
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Mark,Don't you mean frame braces?I don't think the fork braces really do shit.I have one because I figured why not I already did everything else.Do you live in the flatlands?Ohio to Kansas is flat as water along I 70.Looks like kids can't even sled ride anywhere.You can see over passes for 10 miles before getting to them.
Yeah, orgasm corrected me. lol
It's kind of flat, but it's pretty hilly in western Iowa and eastern Nebraska.
Mark
It's kind of flat, but it's pretty hilly in western Iowa and eastern Nebraska.
Mark
Been away is Brisbane for a couple of days and logged in at an internet kiosk to see how this topic is going.
If you have done all this work, and it has made a diference where do you think the remaining flex is coming from?
Do you think the flex could be originating from the steer stem?
I kind of like the tail wagging. It's about the only thing that gets my adrenaline going any more.
Sean Morley
Sean Morley
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Look at your bike from the side.See the huge hole where the motor is?I still say frame braces do the most to stiffen it up.
Rusty McNeil
Well-Known Member
Mine has
New steering head bearings set "just right"
Dale walker frame braces
Heavy fork brace-one of the fat aluminum ones
Solid mounts
Shindy steering stabilizer/damper
Racetech springs and emulators lowered 1.5"
Progressive shock one the rear lowered 1.5"
Rearsets
ME 880's both ends
It has zero headshake in a straight line up to 130 which is as fats as I'll ever go on it. Over 130 it does a little weave but no wobble/headshake.
In hard low speed turns (under 45) it handles really sweet.
In fast high speed sweepers it doesn't headshake but does weave/wallow/occillate slowly and just slightly, but not enough to make my asshole pucker.
Would like to do
Radials
Braced swingarm
Better shocks on the rear
and see where it goes from there
Rusty
New steering head bearings set "just right"
Dale walker frame braces
Heavy fork brace-one of the fat aluminum ones
Solid mounts
Shindy steering stabilizer/damper
Racetech springs and emulators lowered 1.5"
Progressive shock one the rear lowered 1.5"
Rearsets
ME 880's both ends
It has zero headshake in a straight line up to 130 which is as fats as I'll ever go on it. Over 130 it does a little weave but no wobble/headshake.
In hard low speed turns (under 45) it handles really sweet.
In fast high speed sweepers it doesn't headshake but does weave/wallow/occillate slowly and just slightly, but not enough to make my asshole pucker.
Would like to do
Radials
Braced swingarm
Better shocks on the rear
and see where it goes from there
Rusty
4gasem
Well-Known Member
Attachments
What I don't understand is why you'd go through all the trouble to do those suspension mods, clearly aimed at improving handling, and then lower the bike 1.5 inches. The Vmax has pretty good cornering clearance for a non-sportbike, but it could still stand to be better. Now I'm sure your rearsets do help cornering clearance, but lowering the bike still runs counter-intuitive to upgrading the suspension. If you push the bike hard enough in the twisties, I bet you'll run out of cornering clearance before you run out of grip. (Then again, I don't know the 880s personally.)
Why'd you go with the 880s, and how do you like them, handling-wise? I've got the Avons and while they leave something to be desired, I'm of the impression that they're the grippiest bias-ply offering for our bikes.
I took my Max out for a backroads ride this weekend--hit more than a few twisties at or beyond twice their recommended speed. I was getting my ass off the seat and weighting the inside peg, track-day style. The solid motor mounts have apparently made a pretty big difference, as I didn't notice any significant chassis flex despite moving at a pretty quick overall pace. (I was leading a pack of sportbikes, no less, some of them ridden by pretty competent riders.)
Now I wouldn't mind getting a set of frame braces too to add a bit more stiffness, but the solid motor mounts have gone a long way towards making the chassis able to handle the loads the suspension and tires throw at it.
Now I wouldn't mind getting a set of frame braces too to add a bit more stiffness, but the solid motor mounts have gone a long way towards making the chassis able to handle the loads the suspension and tires throw at it.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Are you hard on the pipe in these turns?
You mean, am I dragging any hard parts? No. By getting off the seat and weighting the inside peg, I can corner faster and with less lean angle than if I was seated straight up on the bike.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
I do not mean actually dragging the pipes,I mean throttle wide open putting the power to the road.Solid mounts were an improvement for me but it only seemed to raise the mph some that it would flex.Say from 40 -65.Frame braces raised it even further.!20-130 it will still flex some in big sweepers wide open.
bikedave99
Well-Known Member
Has anyone used the Complete Control kit for front suspension from PCWRacing? It includes: "Everything you need to set up your front fork legs. Includes Progressive Suspension fork springs, spacers, poly lowering blocks, seals (O.E.M. Yamaha) your choice of fork oil weight and complete detailed instructions. " Seems like a decent kit and would be complimented by retorqueing the steering bearing at the same time? Any thoughts?
4gasem
Well-Known Member
How much $$$??? To do it the Race-Tech way it will cost you about 195.00 (with 25%VMOA discount) plus oil and seals if you need seals. I would go with Race-Tech all day. I like the straight rate (non progressive) springs... Buy the seals and oil from U motors and get it all for 15% over their cost. See VMF links above for u motors link.:thumbs up:
I am running full Race-Tech in mine emulators and all and the change is alarmingly great!:banana::thumbs up:
FYI: Silkolene is the bomb when it comes to fork oils...
bikedave99
Well-Known Member
It costs 115.95 for my 1988 Max. Now, it looks like I could upgrage the springs to Racetec for only 30 bucks more... Here is the page which details it: http://www.pcwracing.net/page5.htm
Let me know what you think. I have also felt the rear wheel weeve when cornering, and I haven't been going hard into the corners. Has there been a concensus on how to solve this issue?
4gasem
Well-Known Member
Try torquing your swingarm pivot bearings. Frame braces go a L-O-N-G way towards tightening things up.
Full Race-Tech is the best. If you want the best... Do IT! You won't be sorry. FYI: the bike will ride more firm and not be "cruiser like" anymore...:thumbs up:
