Rear brake caliper

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One of the pistons is out a bit more than the other side. The caliper has over 66,000 miles on them and have never been rebuilt. Should I just clean it up or spend the time/money on new seals? Is changing out the seals really as easy as this?

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/caliperclean/index.html

TIA,

i rebuilt the calipers on my ford truck. Wasnt that hard. Plus I never take a chance with brakes.

Cheers:cheers:
 
Hey Mark, I had 112,000 on my last max and the calipers never leaked - bike was a 96 - One piston out more than the other maybe because the rotor is not completely centered in the caliper.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike. Mine aren't leaking either. I'll check the reservoir to make sure. Do you use washers/shims on the bolts to ensure the caliper is centered on the rotor?
 
The caliper should be in the center already. If you have one piston hanging up then it will cause more wear to one pad which will make it look like one is out farther because it is.

If the pad thickness is the same on both sides then the offset is wrong and you can either find out why or add washers to the caliper.

Rebuilding or cleaning up the calipers is easy. Remove the caliper and take it apart. To get it apart remove the bolts that go through the body. It will split into two halves then.

Now take a small amount of comressed air and use it to push the pistons out. Blow into the bleed valve (after you remove it) and it will come right out. If the caliper is not leaking right now you can probably just clean up the parts. Clean the inside of the caliper with brake cleaner (sparingly). Then take and polish the piston to a mirror finish if you can. The smoother the pistons the better they work. Then simply push them back into place and you are ready to bolt the caliper back together.

If you do decide to replace the seals make note of which way any lips are facing. I don't recall at the moment but I think the seals are bi-directional on these particular calipers so they can go either way.

Sean Morley
 
The caliper should be in the center already. If you have one piston hanging up then it will cause more wear to one pad which will make it look like one is out farther because it is.

If the pad thickness is the same on both sides then the offset is wrong and you can either find out why or add washers to the caliper.

Rebuilding or cleaning up the calipers is easy. Remove the caliper and take it apart. To get it apart remove the bolts that go through the body. It will split into two halves then.

Now take a small amount of comressed air and use it to push the pistons out. Blow into the bleed valve (after you remove it) and it will come right out. If the caliper is not leaking right now you can probably just clean up the parts. Clean the inside of the caliper with brake cleaner (sparingly). Then take and polish the piston to a mirror finish if you can. The smoother the pistons the better they work. Then simply push them back into place and you are ready to bolt the caliper back together.

If you do decide to replace the seals make note of which way any lips are facing. I don't recall at the moment but I think the seals are bi-directional on these particular calipers so they can go either way.

Sean Morley

I tear my calipers completely apart then bead blast them inside and out.Gets all the white crud out.Put them back together and they work like new.I did this to my max and drag bike.The four pots for my wifes fazer too.Works like a champ.

I also recommend changing to dot 5 brake fluid at this time.No more corrosion with it.
 
You guys re-use the seals? Yamaha manual says to not spllit the caliper although it doesn't go into why not.

If I go to DOT5 I need to replace the line and clean out the master cylinder right?
 
I don't bother with dot 3 or 4 myself. I mean, your bike is 20 years old with 60,000+ miles. It's not like it is going to go bad next year if you don't switch. Besides, if you ever get low on the road for any reason you can't just add anything you to it.

yes, you can reuse the seals most of the time.

Sean
 
Thanks guys. I've gone this long so will continue to use DOT 4. Although, DOT 5.1 is compatible with 3/4 so that's an option.

I'm just going to order the seal kit. I tried to do the inspection with the swing arm and stuff and ended up wasting shipping time because had to replace anyway.
 
hey mark. if you haven't done it already, do you think the adapters I made you would work for the rear with the same calipers used on the front?

Sean
 
So far every caliper that I have redone the seals have looked like new after getting the white dot 3 corrosion crap off of them so I re used them.If they where questionable I would have replaced them.

Mark,If I was you right now I would consider putting one of your old front calipers on the back.They have bigger pistons than the stock rear so it would be somewhat of an upgrade.
 
Shawn, I thought the rear caliper was the same as the early model front? Interesting.
 
Mark,If I was you right now I would consider putting one of your old front calipers on the back.They have bigger pistons than the stock rear so it would be somewhat of an upgrade.

Shawn I checked and the calipers have different part numbers. Even the piston and seal kits are different. Anyway, I think we learned something that although it's a straight swap the front-right and rear calipers are different. I can already lock-up the brake with my stock rear so what reason would I switch to using a front caliper?
 
Shawn I checked and the calipers have different part numbers. Even the piston and seal kits are different. Anyway, I think we learned something that although it's a straight swap the front-right and rear calipers are different. I can already lock-up the brake with my stock rear so what reason would I switch to using a front caliper?


???????????? Why do people put R1 calipers in the back?Maybe so it will lock up easier?More feel? Just another option I guess,R1 calipers are probably just for more bling.
 
Not only are they different in piston size but also the hose location is considerably different.

Sean
 
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