Spark plug wires...

[m-cman]

I also need a new set of plug wires and caps. I would like to make my own if someone knows the recommended brand names for the caps and wires and a source in the North Dallas area.

Is copper or silicone the best type of wire?

 

[Bill Seward]

I've replaced the caps/wires on mine a few times over the years. 15 years ago, there wasn't these fancy spark plug wires that cost 10 times what they're worth. I went to the bike shop, bought 6 feet of copper core high-tension (spark plug ) wire, and 4 caps that were long enough to get down there to where the plugs lived. The fronts are truly a PITA to change, but the job was not all that bad.

I always left the wires 6" longer than needed. That gave me a little bit extra because I'd trim off a bit from the ends every few years to remove any possible corossion. Also, I'd trim them yearly, back under the seat to the coils. Long ago, those little rubber donuts (used to keep water out of the coil ends) fell apaart - so I put a dab of silicone in there to seal them up.

Work fine for me, but I admit some of the color-matched wires look pretty cool!

 

[reloader]

The wires used on the VMax are usually copper wire or plated copper wire with very low resistance, near zero. The resistance is in the cap. I checked out the NGK caps and they are 5000 ohms and the used stock ones I took off were 10,000 ohms. The insulation over the wire is what is silicone on the good sets. Cheaper sets have a rubber insulation which has less resistance to temperature and will probably brakdown faster.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

The wires used on the VMax are usually copper wire or plated copper wire with very low resistance, near zero. The resistance is in the cap. I checked out the NGK caps and they are 5000 ohms and the used stock ones I took off were 10,000 ohms. The insulation over the wire is what is silicone on the good sets. Cheaper sets have a rubber insulation which has less resistance to temperature and will probably brakdown faster.

Whatever combo of wires and boots that get used you need some RF resistance somewhere or you'll throw interference into the ignition.

I made a set that had no resistance boots and racing wire and the ignition started acting stupid immediattely(sp?)

I changed the wires to RF resistance wires and zero resistance boots and the problem went away immedeittly.

Rusty

 

[Bill Kratzenberg]

I was looking to change my plugs & wires as well.
How in the hell do you even get to the front coils?
Looks like a lot of work just to get there...
Any Advice?

 

[maleko89]

Remove top covers, scoops, both electrical shields on left and right side, coolant manifold mounts, instrument cluster (let it hang) and air box. It'll help to remove rubber heat shield for front valve cover too. Remove four bolts holding electrical tray that the ignition computer sits on and slide it rearward. Now, should be a piece of cake.

Mark
#1098

 

[4gasem]

The right tools go a long way...:whistlin:

I have a several pairs of hose remover needle nose pliers that are over a foot long. I reach in there and remove the nuts and then finagle the others in. A little WD-40 on the nuts helps. Not yours... The cables.:icon_rolleyes: