starting question

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Bill Kratzenberg

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I met another maxxer this summer who has a 99 with stage 7 and holeshot system. I tried to get him to join the forum but he is not a computer person.

Anyway he called me tonight and said he could'nt get his bike to start.
He said this happened to him once before and he was able to start it by catching it in gear.

Well it happened again and he couldn't catch it in gear this time.
He replaced the plugs, said the battery cranks like crazy.
Tried with choke on and off.
This is for cold starts not warm.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
I would remove plugs and put back in caps..then set on valve covers to ground. Test for spark. Also check for fuel in float bowls and check condition of that fuel.
 
How old is the battery? For shits and giggles, next time it doesnt start, hook some jumper cables up and see if it starts right up.

I had the same problem with that POS pansonic battery, she would crank over but just not fast enough or wasnt enough juice to fire the plugs hot enough, Put a new Yuasa battery in and BAM! Problem solved. Dont have this guy tear his whole bike apart try the jumper cable trick I am betting his battery is on the blink.... YES I KNOW IT CRANKS FINE, mine did also but never hit. I could than bump start it and it started the first millisecond I let the clutch out...
 
Ok thanks for the replys...
He found out that he is not getting any spark to any of the plugs.

Next question is: Bad coils? or ignitor? what should he check next or replace?
Thanks for the help,
Bill
 
I'd say the first thing is to check the fuses under the faux-tank! One of them is the ignition fuse - 10A.

Then see if it's getting juice at the coils' inputs, if yes, then the coils may be bad, although it would be weird for all four to die at once!
If no, then the CDI unit may be bad, but again that's pretty unlikely, so I'd have a thorough check of all connections first - it's more likely for a connector to pop off than for the CDI to fail. If you suspect a bad CDI, the only way to check is to replace with one known to work.

Could also be the HT cords and/or the spark plug boots - but again - for all 4 to fail at once would be very strange indeed.

I am selling a fully working set of coils with mounting screws, HT cords and boots (no rubber on the boots tho) for $90 - bargain when you know that one new coil = $60 to $75!
These were made in 2005, have no cracks and worked fine until I replaced them with COPs.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=280288726729&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=018
 
There's a 2 pin connector for the p/u coil. It's near the battery on left side. It might be behind side cover above R/R. Look for orange and black wires. Resistance will be 110 Ohms at 68*F.
 

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