des max
Active Member
I got my 8 inch carbon fiber minis slip on exhaust today will install ASAP!
What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
- Start date
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adambweird
Well-Known Member
Designed some mounting strap extensions to have our laser guy make for me so my Street Pro 4-2 will finally be tamed with a pair of Holeshots. Not only will my neighbors be happy when i come home from work at 3am, my ears will be VERY happy and ill only be heard on night rides for about 3 miles when hammering it instead of about 6 miles at steady cruzing, lol. A video of me sledge hammering the slash cut "mufflers" will be coming soon unless someone wants to buy them for some crazy reason... if so pm me. Ill wait til the weekend to destroy them.
Biker Dash
Well-Known Member
Spent the day running around getting the little items needed... but got the GPS mount nearly complete. A lot of cutting and grinding involved though. Also, stiffened up the windshield mounting a bit. Gonna do more on that tomorrow.
Rollie
Well-Known Member
Video it with sound if you please . I've been thinking about changing out my Kerker can for one of these IXIL exhausts . Inlet doesn't match the Kerker outlet however , so I would have to do a little modding to make it fit. I've heard it before and it sounds similar to the slashcuts from UFO .
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DMAN999
Well-Known Member
Getting closer everyday.
I got the front fender back on and got my Sportmax frame braces on and ready to have the tabs welded.
I'm going to replace my starter clutch this week too.
I'm really digging the dark green more and more.
It goes from light/medium green to really dark green depending on the lighting.
I got the front fender back on and got my Sportmax frame braces on and ready to have the tabs welded.
I'm going to replace my starter clutch this week too.
I'm really digging the dark green more and more.
It goes from light/medium green to really dark green depending on the lighting.
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adambweird
Well-Known Member
Shimmed my needles a half step to hopefully take care of a flat spot between 3500 & 4k. Garage testing is looking promising... cant road test due to rain. If it keeps up the way it has been im gonna buy a damn row boat!
Lotsokids
Well-Known Member
Painted white letters on the front tire. I didn't do the rear, because the letters on my Pirelli's are HUGE, and probably would look tacky.
Some of you were teenagers in the 80's also, right? :thumbs up:
Some of you were teenagers in the 80's also, right? :thumbs up:
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
That white lettering looks good on there.
It gives it that Musclebike/Hotrod look on a Much better handling tire than the OEM Dunlop Qualifiers.
It gives it that Musclebike/Hotrod look on a Much better handling tire than the OEM Dunlop Qualifiers.
BigJimi
Well-Known Member
Yesterday I replaced the stock pipes with the SuperTrapps I picked up from Scuff:biglaugh:
Also replaced the stock bars with some 31 1/2" drag bars, love how it handles now with the wider bars!
Maybe today I will tackle the new Galfer front brake and clutch lines....
Oh yeah and the bike lost about 23lbs with the removal of the stock pipes and center stand, new pipes weighed about 5lbs total....
Also replaced the stock bars with some 31 1/2" drag bars, love how it handles now with the wider bars!
Maybe today I will tackle the new Galfer front brake and clutch lines....
Oh yeah and the bike lost about 23lbs with the removal of the stock pipes and center stand, new pipes weighed about 5lbs total....
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reeseleblanc
Well-Known Member
I did the bright gauges mod with standard LEDs in the speedo, HP in the tach, and HP3 in the temp gauge. The two gauge is still dimmer than the speedo, but it still looks good!
I also verified that the turn signals in my R6 tail conversion work properly by pulling the turn signal bulb from the dash. Now that I've done that, I'll grab some resistors and wire it properly.
I also verified that the turn signals in my R6 tail conversion work properly by pulling the turn signal bulb from the dash. Now that I've done that, I'll grab some resistors and wire it properly.
silverado6x6
Well-Known Member
This last winter i could only work on my bikes either in the kitchen or my old hot tub laundry room, i had been using the big concrete mixer repair shop at my old job as that was where all my tools were.
Well i have a different job, all tools are at home safe now, but all i have is either in the house or outside in one of 4 bike sheds, way too hard to work in during the Alaska winter.
But we had a huge Ritchie Brothers heavy equipment auction saturday, i wound up with a decent 40 foot ex refrigerated semi trailer, i have the use of a tractor, its about a mile from my house.
So i will have a super insulated bike shop now, they had connex containers but they were selling at outrageous prices. Its pretty expensive to build a regular shop, like over $30,000.
And a garage wont cut it, i need space. Beauty is the van is insulated, it has wheels, a sturdy aluminum floor, somebody had started to make a shop out of it before. I will back it into a back bladed depression next to the side of the house, then just crank the landing gear down. Build a much lower ramp so its not too difficult to push bikes up, goal is to get the back end low enough it wont be too hard going in or out.
And i will put down some osb or plywood for the floor, maybe something else like some pool carpet.
Well i have a different job, all tools are at home safe now, but all i have is either in the house or outside in one of 4 bike sheds, way too hard to work in during the Alaska winter.
But we had a huge Ritchie Brothers heavy equipment auction saturday, i wound up with a decent 40 foot ex refrigerated semi trailer, i have the use of a tractor, its about a mile from my house.
So i will have a super insulated bike shop now, they had connex containers but they were selling at outrageous prices. Its pretty expensive to build a regular shop, like over $30,000.
And a garage wont cut it, i need space. Beauty is the van is insulated, it has wheels, a sturdy aluminum floor, somebody had started to make a shop out of it before. I will back it into a back bladed depression next to the side of the house, then just crank the landing gear down. Build a much lower ramp so its not too difficult to push bikes up, goal is to get the back end low enough it wont be too hard going in or out.
And i will put down some osb or plywood for the floor, maybe something else like some pool carpet.
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Nice. No covenants ?:whistlin:
WVxNitemare
Well-Known Member
W
What tire is that? And what tire In the rear?
Size brand etc
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Painted white letters on the front tire. I didn't do the rear, because the letters on my Pirelli's are HUGE, and probably would look tacky.
Some of you were teenagers in the 80's also, right? :thumbs up:
What tire is that? And what tire In the rear?
Size brand etc
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
silverado6x6
Well-Known Member
You mean what would the neighbors say?
Heck half the homes around me are made from pallets and shipping containers!
Its an Alaska thing, next time you or anyone visits Alaska go see what the prices are at our Lowes or Home Depot.
I'm just fooling around since I remember my neighbor came unglued when I build a 8x14 shed. He yelled at me "it looks like a trailer!"
So a few months later, that's exactly what I rewarded him with. A 24' toyhauler blocking his view.
He kept saying we had a covenants. But I did have to follow city ordinances and put gravel under it.
How big a garage does 30K buy you up there?
If anyone is interested in these let me know--->http://www.ebay.com/itm/221800508715?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 :biglaugh:
Probably no covenants unless you are in a gated private community, more likely you would have zoning code ordinances, the effect is the same.
Before you do any work on your property, check your local zoning code for % of plot coverage by structures, separation from a dwelling for an 'accessory use,' (a garage or shed) limits on the size of a garage or shed, types of construction allowed or prohibited, (no truck bodies, no flat roofs, required windstorm rated construction, etc.), allowed roofing material, the list goes on. Getting a local architect to provide you with plans for a site-built structure, who knows the requirements and can design a compliant approved set of plans, and who is known to the local Building Dept., important for inspections you will need to pass, along with how you choose to build, as owner-builder, or paying a GC to do the work, all these are things you need to research.
Not paying attention to the ordinances and codes in your local jurisdiction can mean you spend $1,000's for something you cannot use, and may face being torn down or removed, paying subcontractors twice because the GC didn't pay the subs, and you didn't file a 'notice of commencement,' which will prevent precisely that, having to pay subs because an unscrupulous GC didn't pay the subs.
It's worth it to pay for the services of a pro in design (architect), building (a GC-general contractor) or a project manager. Ask the local building dept. for referrals, if they say, "we don't make referrals," request to see permits issued in the last year for your type of development, and see who is listed in the documents for these roles. It's public access, and you may be able to do it from your computer once you find the access.
Before you do any work on your property, check your local zoning code for % of plot coverage by structures, separation from a dwelling for an 'accessory use,' (a garage or shed) limits on the size of a garage or shed, types of construction allowed or prohibited, (no truck bodies, no flat roofs, required windstorm rated construction, etc.), allowed roofing material, the list goes on. Getting a local architect to provide you with plans for a site-built structure, who knows the requirements and can design a compliant approved set of plans, and who is known to the local Building Dept., important for inspections you will need to pass, along with how you choose to build, as owner-builder, or paying a GC to do the work, all these are things you need to research.
Not paying attention to the ordinances and codes in your local jurisdiction can mean you spend $1,000's for something you cannot use, and may face being torn down or removed, paying subcontractors twice because the GC didn't pay the subs, and you didn't file a 'notice of commencement,' which will prevent precisely that, having to pay subs because an unscrupulous GC didn't pay the subs.
It's worth it to pay for the services of a pro in design (architect), building (a GC-general contractor) or a project manager. Ask the local building dept. for referrals, if they say, "we don't make referrals," request to see permits issued in the last year for your type of development, and see who is listed in the documents for these roles. It's public access, and you may be able to do it from your computer once you find the access.
Hellboy
Well-Known Member
I finally ordered my new low cut carbon and smooth seat from Sean Morley, can't wait.
Matt
Matt
Today I changed the engine oil and filter. Then I installed an extra brake light under the back of the seat where the (broken) reflector was. I used the LED marker light I'd seen mentioned on this forum but painted the cheap-looking chrome a nice shade of flat black. Looks much better IMHO. Maxine will on the road soon, I hope.
