Hatter
Well-Known Member
It's a nice ride. :whistlin:
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It's a nice ride. :whistlin:
ALMTY
Well-Known Member
AHHHHHHHHH ! I hate to say this but me thinks I am going to put the bike away this week-end. Nothing but rain this week and its COLD:tantrum:. Weather is stating for snow:snow: this saturday *&*#$@ ! PISS ! Now I guess its time to BUY things that the bike would like to have.
4gasem
Well-Known Member
I looked at mine sitting under the cover collecting dust as I went for some latex gloves in the garage this morning.
Been at least 2 months since I rode it last... :confused2:
Been a VERY bad year for riding. My SV has maybe 100 miles on it and the max MAYBE 500...
The bad thing.... I haven't missed it ONE bit... :ummm:
Been at least 2 months since I rode it last... :confused2:
Been a VERY bad year for riding. My SV has maybe 100 miles on it and the max MAYBE 500...
The bad thing.... I haven't missed it ONE bit... :ummm:
dannymax
Well-Known Member
Looks good mdr--TOUGH!!
ALMTY
Well-Known Member
That sux.... and I don't want to know why you were looking for "latex gloves" lol.
I have put close to 5000 miles on mine this last season. Thanks to the ride w/Redbone and crew to Manitoulin Isl.
4gasem
Well-Known Member
LOL The G/F was cutting jalapenos for some dip she was making... I use them when ever doing any repairs. Keeps the hands tidy! :eusa_dance:
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
so yesterday a few things turned up...
Received the oil filter from the best eBay shop I found in quite a while, received stock shocks from David (ssnsltd) (THANK YOU!), got my Shell Rotella T oil from CostCo, and the Shinko tires arrived from Bike Bandit :clapping::clapping:
So I rode home and got on with it :biglaugh: Weird thing: rode all the way at 95mph (5000rpm) and for the frst time yet, got to 102 miles on trip counter before the fuel light came on! :confused2: Usually only get 90ish..:ummm:
Replaced the unknown lowered shocks with the stockers. I can get the bike on its center stand again!
unk:
Flushed the old oil out and replaced filter. Local stealers said they had an o-ring over the phone ($7!!), then when picking up they didn't. :damn angry: Old ring was a bit flat but ok, so used a little instant gasket over the mating surface and put it back in. Filled up with Rotella T 15W40, warmed up the motor, then off, let it settle and topped it up to the top oil window mark.
Took both wheels off, then went to sleep (still on the graveyard shift). In my sleep, my wonderwife :You_Rock: took the wheels and new tires to the stealers, and they fitted and balanced them. Tried to charge her $35 per wheel after quoting me $25 (wankers:jerk it but she didn't have none of it (u tell'em girl :worthy. Then managed to sell her the wrong size cotter pin for the rear brake rod, even tho she had the old one with her. :th_signs60:
I woke up, fitted both wheels back on, torquing the rear axle bolt to just 50 ft/lbs as I read here that it would help diff temperature and put less stress on the wheel bearings , then got ready or my 90-mile ride back to work, feeling quite excited at the thought of possibly having less wobble and being able to go FAST :th_pity:
__________________________________
Went to fill up (I'd been on reserve for ten miles) but forgot to toggle fuel switch back to On :doh:
Checked new tires pressures - front at 34 and rear at 36 psi - all good.
So off I went back on I4, full of expectation of a more stable ride both in a straight line and turns, slightly lower rpms due to 170/80 15 rear tire and a smoother ride overall for the shocks and fresh rubber. :drool:
HOW FUCKING WRONG WAS I??? :confused2::bang head::bang head::bang head::confused2:
- the Death Wobble is back in a straight line above 95mph!
- I almost died attempting to go near 130mph..
- I felt more vibrations in the handlebars!!
- the bike was 'hesitating/surging' all the way at cruise like it was fuel-starved!!!
- there was no change at all in the speedo/rpms ratio :hmmm:
- reserve light came on after 85 miles :damn angry:
To be fair, the new tires feel much better - especially riding over cat's eyes and doing lane changes. They also feel way grippier and smoother in turns, more noticeably so at lower speeds.
I am so confused though :ummm: After doing the Furbur fix, I was able to get up to 135 mph going straight without wobble as long as I didn't hit a bump in the road.
The old 150/90 15 Dunlop was almost bold in the middle, yet the Shinko 170/80 (which I was expecting to be a little taller) made zero difference in rpm vs speed?
I guess the return of the death wobble may have a lot to do with the OEM shocks (13" rather than 12.5") and maybe the lower torque on the rear axle nut.
The vibes I can only assume have to do with poor wheel balancing, but I can see the fresh weights on the wheels and can't believe they would fuck this up.
I'm thinking that the fuel starvation symptoms were due to the fact I rode for many miles in RES rather than ON fuel mode, and maybe there's some crap in the bottom of my tank. I'll check the fuel filter today and drain the tank next time it's empty. I may have to do the shotgun again now.. Maybe that also explain why the fuel light came on so early, or maybe I short-filled in my hurry to go riding, or maybe the V-boost trip to 130mph was it?
Can't think how a totally worn 150/90 was the same diameter a the brand new 170/80 (which clears the swingarm perfectly btw), but maybe it's the brand new 110/90 at the front that's affecting the speedo readout.
What do you guys all think?
Received the oil filter from the best eBay shop I found in quite a while, received stock shocks from David (ssnsltd) (THANK YOU!), got my Shell Rotella T oil from CostCo, and the Shinko tires arrived from Bike Bandit :clapping::clapping:
So I rode home and got on with it :biglaugh: Weird thing: rode all the way at 95mph (5000rpm) and for the frst time yet, got to 102 miles on trip counter before the fuel light came on! :confused2: Usually only get 90ish..:ummm:
Replaced the unknown lowered shocks with the stockers. I can get the bike on its center stand again!
unk:Flushed the old oil out and replaced filter. Local stealers said they had an o-ring over the phone ($7!!), then when picking up they didn't. :damn angry: Old ring was a bit flat but ok, so used a little instant gasket over the mating surface and put it back in. Filled up with Rotella T 15W40, warmed up the motor, then off, let it settle and topped it up to the top oil window mark.
Took both wheels off, then went to sleep (still on the graveyard shift). In my sleep, my wonderwife :You_Rock: took the wheels and new tires to the stealers, and they fitted and balanced them. Tried to charge her $35 per wheel after quoting me $25 (wankers:jerk it
but she didn't have none of it (u tell'em girl :worthy. Then managed to sell her the wrong size cotter pin for the rear brake rod, even tho she had the old one with her. :th_signs60:I woke up, fitted both wheels back on, torquing the rear axle bolt to just 50 ft/lbs as I read here that it would help diff temperature and put less stress on the wheel bearings , then got ready or my 90-mile ride back to work, feeling quite excited at the thought of possibly having less wobble and being able to go FAST :th_pity:
__________________________________
Went to fill up (I'd been on reserve for ten miles) but forgot to toggle fuel switch back to On :doh:
Checked new tires pressures - front at 34 and rear at 36 psi - all good.
So off I went back on I4, full of expectation of a more stable ride both in a straight line and turns, slightly lower rpms due to 170/80 15 rear tire and a smoother ride overall for the shocks and fresh rubber. :drool:
HOW FUCKING WRONG WAS I??? :confused2::bang head::bang head::bang head::confused2:
- the Death Wobble is back in a straight line above 95mph!
- I almost died attempting to go near 130mph..
- I felt more vibrations in the handlebars!!
- the bike was 'hesitating/surging' all the way at cruise like it was fuel-starved!!!
- there was no change at all in the speedo/rpms ratio :hmmm:
- reserve light came on after 85 miles :damn angry:
To be fair, the new tires feel much better - especially riding over cat's eyes and doing lane changes. They also feel way grippier and smoother in turns, more noticeably so at lower speeds.
I am so confused though :ummm: After doing the Furbur fix, I was able to get up to 135 mph going straight without wobble as long as I didn't hit a bump in the road.
The old 150/90 15 Dunlop was almost bold in the middle, yet the Shinko 170/80 (which I was expecting to be a little taller) made zero difference in rpm vs speed?
I guess the return of the death wobble may have a lot to do with the OEM shocks (13" rather than 12.5") and maybe the lower torque on the rear axle nut.
The vibes I can only assume have to do with poor wheel balancing, but I can see the fresh weights on the wheels and can't believe they would fuck this up.
I'm thinking that the fuel starvation symptoms were due to the fact I rode for many miles in RES rather than ON fuel mode, and maybe there's some crap in the bottom of my tank. I'll check the fuel filter today and drain the tank next time it's empty. I may have to do the shotgun again now.. Maybe that also explain why the fuel light came on so early, or maybe I short-filled in my hurry to go riding, or maybe the V-boost trip to 130mph was it?
Can't think how a totally worn 150/90 was the same diameter a the brand new 170/80 (which clears the swingarm perfectly btw), but maybe it's the brand new 110/90 at the front that's affecting the speedo readout.
What do you guys all think?
44 magnum
Well-Known Member
Keep in mind, the difference in sidewall height is only 1mm from the stocker to the new Shinko. (135 mm high vs 136 mm.) I know you said your Dunlop was pretty well bald, and the experts may disagree, but I'm not surprised you didn't notice a difference. My numbers didn't move at all when I went to the bigger Shinkos.
dannymax
Well-Known Member
Mounted and balanced my new Shinkos today. I was a little concerned about side wall stiffness because it was a cold 45 deg. day, but Lankee suggested warming up the tires some before mounting them on the wheels. This turned out to be a great idea, 1/2 hour in front of the salamander and they mounted up nicely. Thanks Lankee!! unk:
The Shinkos look pretty good, but took a lot more weight to balance them than the Metzlers.
I'll see how it handles when it warms up. New tires are slippery, frozen new tires are suicide!! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
unk:The Shinkos look pretty good, but took a lot more weight to balance them than the Metzlers.
I'll see how it handles when it warms up. New tires are slippery, frozen new tires are suicide!! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
so yesterday a few things turned up...
Received the oil filter from the best eBay shop I found in quite a while, received stock shocks from David (ssnsltd) (THANK YOU!), got my Shell Rotella T oil from CostCo, and the Shinko tires arrived from Bike Bandit :clapping::clapping:
So I rode home and got on with it :biglaugh: Weird thing: rode all the way at 95mph (5000rpm) and for the frst time yet, got to 102 miles on trip counter before the fuel light came on! :confused2: Usually only get 90ish..:ummm:
Replaced the unknown lowered shocks with the stockers. I can get the bike on its center stand again!
Flushed the old oil out and replaced filter. Local stealers said they had an o-ring over the phone ($7!!), then when picking up they didn't. :damn angry: Old ring was a bit flat but ok, so used a little instant gasket over the mating surface and put it back in. Filled up with Rotella T 15W40, warmed up the motor, then off, let it settle and topped it up to the top oil window mark.
Took both wheels off, then went to sleep (still on the graveyard shift). In my sleep, my wonderwife :You_Rock: took the wheels and new tires to the stealers, and they fitted and balanced them. Tried to charge her $35 per wheel after quoting me $25 (wankers:jerk it
I woke up, fitted both wheels back on, torquing the rear axle bolt to just 50 ft/lbs as I read here that it would help diff temperature and put less stress on the wheel bearings , then got ready or my 90-mile ride back to work, feeling quite excited at the thought of possibly having less wobble and being able to go FAST :th_pity:
__________________________________
Went to fill up (I'd been on reserve for ten miles) but forgot to toggle fuel switch back to On :doh:
Checked new tires pressures - front at 34 and rear at 36 psi - all good.
So off I went back on I4, full of expectation of a more stable ride both in a straight line and turns, slightly lower rpms due to 170/80 15 rear tire and a smoother ride overall for the shocks and fresh rubber. :drool:
HOW FUCKING WRONG WAS I??? :confused2::bang head::bang head::bang head::confused2:
- the Death Wobble is back in a straight line above 95mph!
- I almost died attempting to go near 130mph..
- I felt more vibrations in the handlebars!!
- the bike was 'hesitating/surging' all the way at cruise like it was fuel-starved!!!
- there was no change at all in the speedo/rpms ratio :hmmm:
- reserve light came on after 85 miles :damn angry:
To be fair, the new tires feel much better - especially riding over cat's eyes and doing lane changes. They also feel way grippier and smoother in turns, more noticeably so at lower speeds.
I am so confused though :ummm: After doing the Furbur fix, I was able to get up to 135 mph going straight without wobble as long as I didn't hit a bump in the road.
The old 150/90 15 Dunlop was almost bold in the middle, yet the Shinko 170/80 (which I was expecting to be a little taller) made zero difference in rpm vs speed?
I guess the return of the death wobble may have a lot to do with the OEM shocks (13" rather than 12.5") and maybe the lower torque on the rear axle nut.
The vibes I can only assume have to do with poor wheel balancing, but I can see the fresh weights on the wheels and can't believe they would fuck this up.
I'm thinking that the fuel starvation symptoms were due to the fact I rode for many miles in RES rather than ON fuel mode, and maybe there's some crap in the bottom of my tank. I'll check the fuel filter today and drain the tank next time it's empty. I may have to do the shotgun again now.. Maybe that also explain why the fuel light came on so early, or maybe I short-filled in my hurry to go riding, or maybe the V-boost trip to 130mph was it?
Can't think how a totally worn 150/90 was the same diameter a the brand new 170/80 (which clears the swingarm perfectly btw), but maybe it's the brand new 110/90 at the front that's affecting the speedo readout.
What do you guys all think?
JFYI...
Naughty, the fuel is extracted from the same point in the tank weather you are reserve or not. The reserve on the Max is a matter of relay turning the fuel pump on and off. It is not a fuel valve that draws fuel from a different point in the tank.
And Joe at boxenstopp has noticed a large increase in fuel issues lately with whatever they are doing to gas these days. Weather it be more ethanol or something else, it is deteriorating rubber fuel lines and hoses faster than normal and clogging idle jets.
Hope this will help in some of your issues.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Funny I've actually been thinking exactly that about fuel quality - but I didn't know about the reserve info - thank you.
After refilling this week, the bike's been running fine (in town) without me doing anything to it. I'm about to do the long-haul again so will find out how it behaves today... I hope ok cos I haven't got a compressor anymore so can't do the shotgun easily again :confused2:
dannymax
Well-Known Member
Try an oz. or two of BG Supercharge II in every tank. I've been using it since the shotgun & sync about a month ago and the bike is running great.
dannymax
Well-Known Member
Took my bike for a ride to test the new Chinkos I mounted yesterday.
Seemed to go pretty good, tires are definitely sticky enough so the traction is there.
Picking up a 'buzz' in the mirrors at about 90 and drive out of it at 115. Gonna recheck the balance in a couple days.
Seemed to go pretty good, tires are definitely sticky enough so the traction is there.
Picking up a 'buzz' in the mirrors at about 90 and drive out of it at 115. Gonna recheck the balance in a couple days.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Well I rode back home 90 miles of I4 today and the bike ran fine, so I really think I got a tankful of crappy gas the other night. It's amazing how the quality can change from station to station.. :confused2:
I also went to a nice bike accessories shop I found in Orlando, and spent a bit of time feeling the rubber of a buncha grips. Settled on a set of black ProGrip Gel Touch 'SuperBike'. Promptly dumped those horrible oversize foam & chrome items the bike came with and fitted the ProGrips.
WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!! :clapping:unk::clapping:unk::clapping:unk:
I know it's only just grips, but the bikes feels totally different. It's like she's thanking me for taking off those lard arse harley lookalike wank-handles! :rofl_200:
Honestly, riding back home felt so good. The death wobble wasn't half as bad (got to 125mph a few times lol, so a lot has to be said about some of those wobbles being induced by the rider's grip and wind buffeting. :ummm:
I still get headshakes at high speeds if I hit a bump in the road, and even with the new Shinkos, it feels like the slightest bump in a high speed bend would result in a tankslapper. I think I'm gonna start by replacing those steering bearings with brand spanking new ones, and then also inspect and maybe replace the swingarm ones.
Next will be the shocks. Having put tthe OEM ones I got from ssnsltd, I feel things got worse. Going from 12.5" to 13" may have something to do with it (I really want 13" cos I wanna use my centre stand), but going from what I had to OEM may also have been a poor choice. Still tryinna work out if my previoous shocks were any good or not - will post pics of them in the suspension forum.
BTW, for those of you who still ride on OEM shocks, what's your preferred settings for preload and rebound? I tried both on 1 the other night and it was shit, today had preload on 2 and rebound on 1, now gonna try 2 & 2.
Does anyone think that torquing my rear wheel axle nut to only 45 Nm instead of the prescribed 120 Nm could affect stability?
Also, how do you find out if you have rubber or solid motor mounts? Is there an obvious place to look at and tell-tale signs?
I'm gonna get that thing properly stable yet.. :eusa_dance::eusa_dance::eusa_dance:
I also went to a nice bike accessories shop I found in Orlando, and spent a bit of time feeling the rubber of a buncha grips. Settled on a set of black ProGrip Gel Touch 'SuperBike'. Promptly dumped those horrible oversize foam & chrome items the bike came with and fitted the ProGrips.
WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!! :clapping:
unk::clapping:unk::clapping:unk:I know it's only just grips, but the bikes feels totally different. It's like she's thanking me for taking off those lard arse harley lookalike wank-handles! :rofl_200:
Honestly, riding back home felt so good. The death wobble wasn't half as bad (got to 125mph a few times lol, so a lot has to be said about some of those wobbles being induced by the rider's grip and wind buffeting. :ummm:
I still get headshakes at high speeds if I hit a bump in the road, and even with the new Shinkos, it feels like the slightest bump in a high speed bend would result in a tankslapper. I think I'm gonna start by replacing those steering bearings with brand spanking new ones, and then also inspect and maybe replace the swingarm ones.
Next will be the shocks. Having put tthe OEM ones I got from ssnsltd, I feel things got worse. Going from 12.5" to 13" may have something to do with it (I really want 13" cos I wanna use my centre stand), but going from what I had to OEM may also have been a poor choice. Still tryinna work out if my previoous shocks were any good or not - will post pics of them in the suspension forum.
BTW, for those of you who still ride on OEM shocks, what's your preferred settings for preload and rebound? I tried both on 1 the other night and it was shit, today had preload on 2 and rebound on 1, now gonna try 2 & 2.
Does anyone think that torquing my rear wheel axle nut to only 45 Nm instead of the prescribed 120 Nm could affect stability?
Also, how do you find out if you have rubber or solid motor mounts? Is there an obvious place to look at and tell-tale signs?
I'm gonna get that thing properly stable yet.. :eusa_dance::eusa_dance::eusa_dance:
Last edited:
Dezeez
Well-Known Member
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
I think the issue here is the fact that I also have FatMax hard bags, so I can't grab the bike where you usually would and have to reach for the grab rail behind the seat..
I'm tall and strong enough, but unless I'm wearing heavy bike boots I can't do it - it does take a lot of push-down effort to get it up.
With the 12.5" shocks there's absolutely no way - rolling the rear wheel on a plank is the only way to get it up :damn angry:
Frosty72
Well-Known Member
Just sent a swing arm off to Sean M, for double notching, double bracing and chroming. cant wait till its done. Final Drive is going next for chroming. If there's any of you guys that are looking for some chroming or custom work. Give Sean a call. I have never ment him in person but have been dealing with him for the last few months on a lot of different things. A very honest and trusting guy.That's done an excellent job for me so far at fair prices.unk:
unk:
Clay, what did you get?
Jamie, how is it?
Yesterday, Heretic and I rode to visit Hulign to pick up his rear caliper off his '99. I installed it last night and am anxious to try it. If it still works like shit then hopefully SS line will work. Otherwise, new rotor.
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