Chain drive hits the streets

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jedi-

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2008
Messages
1,249
Reaction score
18
Location
Auckland NZ
This is really the conclusion of the chain drive project from the other thread.
Finally getting some Spring type weather so I managed to get some test runs.
Apart from some minor adjustments it's pretty well done.

To recap: I basically built the engine from bits from another busted Vmax engine which our apprentice at work bought as a broken purchase.
The engine is half Vmax and half XVZ1300, literally two cases bolted together.
The deck was milled a millimeter, re-profiled cams and homemade shims using all Vmax top end. Transmission is all Vmax
Oil pump/system is Vmax.
Engine covers are part Vmax and part XVZ.
Running stage 7 kit with pods.
New exhaust is Voodoo.
F/wheel is Vmax and stator coil which fits into modified stator cover to accept it.
I milled the cases for the drive chain clearance, made the drive sprocket which is removable without any major drama.
I made a support piece to strengthen the output area as not to weaken the cases and made a new swingarm.
Fuel tank is modified for chain clearance and extended to allow more fuel.

Haven't really stepped on it yet as I'm taking my time basically running in this hybrid engine and rechecking stuff.
It appears to really pull hard and I think it will have heaps of stomping power.

Later on I will take some video.



 
Congrats on the results of all your hard work. It looks great!

Best of luck with it.
 
Nice, the only comment I would make would be to add the engine strut to prevent the engine from walking rearward and having the chain jump the front sprocket. This was learned from various attempts over the years.
 
Looks sharp Steve. What Sean is referring to makes a lot of sense especially on harder pulls...
 
Looks sharp Steve. What Sean is referring to makes a lot of sense especially on harder pulls...

Don't think it's an issue Fred.The other versions I've seen had the crap milled out of the cases and almost nothing left of the engine mount. One poor soul had the ends snap off even in transport just the other day in a thread here.
I only milled just enough to clear the chain and no more, the mount is in great shape. I also have machined a boss which still screws into the threads from where the original output u/j /drive gear goes, it is clearanced of course to let the chain run around it. This ties up that area considerably, it can't flex there. I don't see that anyone has done that previously. I have solid mounts so it's all rigid.
Some of the others also milled grooves about the middle drive gear bearing to allow the sprocket to be removed without splitting the cases, whilst this is good for getting the sprocket out, it also weakens that entire area.
I'm able to get my sprocket in and out no problem but didn't need to mill grooves.
If I was drag racing or beating on it all the time I'd consider doing more but I'm confident I don't have a problem.
 
Hmmm wonder how this setup would handle a 1500 or a 1570 stroker? If this setup works long term will we see this be offered as a mod ?
 
Awsome indeed.
(When I read the title..I thought the chain was literally "hitting the street". Hehe..
 
Hmmm wonder how this setup would handle a 1500 or a 1570 stroker? If this setup works long term will we see this be offered as a mod ?

The parts I make are readily available although I'm not really interested in milling other folks engine cases nor am I really interested in making swingarms to suit.
 
Nice, the only comment I would make would be to add the engine strut to prevent the engine from walking rearward and having the chain jump the front sprocket. This was learned from various attempts over the years.

Sean, where would this go? From the left rear engine case to somewhere on the swingarm, like a parallelogram?
 
It is a simple bracket that bolts to the mid gear part of the engine and then back to the frame rail. Simply locks that in to prevent the engine from moving rearward.

Sean
 
Back
Top