coils over plug question

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jagco1

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Can some tell me what is the positive and negative wires, for 1 through 4 cylinder coil wiring.

And what side of the coil sticks would be + or - I went up to the junk yard for car parts and found they had few wreck motorcycles. I pick up 14 sets of 4 coil sticks and found 6 sets was 3.0 ohms short type. other sets range from 1.5 to 2.5 ohms.

"O" do it matter how the coil wiring is hook up.

They let me have all of them for $60.00 and 6 wiring harness.

Pick up few parts for the vmax to. Man just happen to be in the right place at the right time. I when went up to the junk yard.

Going to make a mounting plate and have all 4 coil wiring hook up over the battery. And do blue covering over the coil wires to match the bike color.
 
I don't know which is +/-, but I know the front coil wires are crossed. The one that comes from the right side of the bike actually runs the left front cylinder and left side of bike runs the right one. That's gonna be a whole bunch of extra wiring to get those coil feed wires run back to your battery and back up to the front cylinders, though. Not to keep you from doing it, but I'm wondering why you'd want all that wire running back and forth. Are you gonna remove your front coils?
 
I just did a COP mod on my max. I bought R1 sticks and the harness as a package deal for about $25.00. In order to get the proper +/- hook up I downloaded the R1 wiring diagram and used it as a reference. If you know what bike these came out of and you have the harnesses it should be easy to figure it out.
 
Why do you want to know that? That is only important to check the secondary resistance, anything you attach to it doesn't matter which wire to splice into as it is a coil, just like a lamp, you can put anything before or after the lamp and the circuit will be the same.
If you have them go with the 3 ohm ones as that will be closer to stock coils. Anything with less resistance will increase current in the TCI and the early type analog ones are more prone to burn transistors due that increase in current hence some use power resistors on the adapter leads to lower the current. Theres no need to run wires back and forth to the battery.
 
The wiring plugs like to have them together easy for me to get to them right under the seat. The wiring run is only a few inches from the front to were the battery location is. "O" in other words like to have all 4 coil wiring male and female plugs together 1 through 4 and number them.

So the front coils wiring are cross.

I thought you could install the wiring like a lamp just like to make sure.

When I start installing the coil sticks - I will hook everything up 1st to make sure the motor is running and no problems. Then I will start cutting in to the front coils wiring and move them to under the seat like the rear coil connector plugs .

Was going to buy the dyna ignition and coils. Don't think I will take the bike to the track any more.

I have to check my starter clutch so I install the coil sticks at the same time.

Thanks for your guy's input.
 
The wiring plugs like to have them together easy for me to get to them right under the seat. The wiring run is only a few inches from the front to were the battery location is.

I get the desire to have them all together, but on my bike it's about two feet from the front coil wires to the battery. Maybe I'm not understanding something.
:ummm:

Once you make the wiring harnesses for each front, they're pretty easy to deal with, though.
 
It seems he wants to be able to disconnect them all at the same spot? Can do that by just disconnecting the denso connectors at the cops? Im not getting either...
 
Can some tell me what is the positive and negative wires, for 1 through 4 cylinder coil wiring.

And what side of the coil sticks would be + or - I went up to the junk yard for car parts and found they had few wreck motorcycles. I pick up 14 sets of 4 coil sticks and found 6 sets was 3.0 ohms short type. other sets range from 1.5 to 2.5 ohms.

"O" do it matter how the coil wiring is hook up.

They let me have all of them for $60.00 and 6 wiring harness.

Pick up few parts for the vmax to. Man just happen to be in the right place at the right time. I when went up to the junk yard.

Going to make a mounting plate and have all 4 coil wiring hook up over the battery. And do blue covering over the coil wires to match the bike color.

The red/white wire on my '99 was (+) side

On the sticks the (-) sides are wired together, (+) sides are individual wires
 
If you prefer to rewire the coil connections that is ok in my book, to each his own. In my experience since I've had COP's for going on 5 seasons and other than changing plugs, or when I went from Birdoprey's original harness to Gannon's fused harness those are the only time I've even had to mess with the COP's.
 
It seems he wants to be able to disconnect them all at the same spot? Can do that by just disconnecting the denso connectors at the cops? Im not getting either...

Yes disconnecting all together under the seat, I do understand connecting them on the coil plugs. What I don't like is the connection up in the frame. Last year ran into another vmax rider at Pete's Cycles in MD he was having his bike service. He was having problem with the bike not running right they replace the stater something still happen bike back firing. Come to find out water got in to the front coils connections plugs rusted a little. So that's why a like to have all 4 connections under the seat. "O" to vmax guy had the plugs move under his seat thanks to me. I don't remember how they tap in to the wiring though. If I remember right they charge him a extra $95.00 to re-run the coil wiring.
 
The red/white wire on my '99 was (+) side

On the sticks the (-) sides are wired together, (+) sides are individual wires

Thanks again dannymax
 
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If you prefer to rewire the coil connections that is ok in my book, to each his own. In my experience since I've had COP's for going on 5 seasons and other than changing plugs, or when I went from Birdoprey's original harness to Gannon's fused harness those are the only time I've even had to mess with the COP's.

Thanks redbone for the info.
 
Use dielectric grease on the connectors? It will insulate it from water. its silicon grease type of stuff, prevents corrosion, or replace connectors by water tight ones. Check eastern beaver site for those goodies
 
Use dielectric grease on the connectors? It will insulate it from water. its silicon grease type of stuff, prevents corrosion, or replace connectors by water tight ones. Check eastern beaver site for those goodies
+1, use it on all my electrical connectors. Do not go crazy with the grease as it will just collect dirt if it squishes out of the connectors.
 
Absolutely....good stuff, squeeze a bit inside both sides of every connector, great for preventing 'green wires'. Also works the nuts as a lube, perhaps to pop carbs down on stiff, cold carb boots....:eusa_dance:
 
Use dielectric grease on the connectors? It will insulate it from water. its silicon grease type of stuff, prevents corrosion, or replace connectors by water tight ones. Check eastern beaver site for those goodies

Thanks for this info, I never use this before. I order some off of amazon...

I have used silicon grease, Dielectric grease is new to me.
 

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Dielectric grease works but, I've been trained to use Kopr-shield. It actually increases conductivity while being a corrosion inhibitor at the same time. It is specified for use on all grounding, bonding, and AC power connections by many of our clients.

It also works as an anti-sieze. We use it on stainless to stainless bolted connections to prevent galling.
 

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Absolutely....good stuff, squeeze a bit inside both sides of every connector, great for preventing 'green wires'. Also works the nuts as a lube, perhaps to pop carbs down on stiff, cold carb boots....:eusa_dance:

Never considered that but popping the carbs down on stiff boots is top of my list... :rofl_200:
 
Dielectric grease works but, I've been trained to use Kopr-shield. It actually increases conductivity while being a corrosion inhibitor at the same time. It is specified for use on all grounding, bonding, and AC power connections by many of our clients.

It also works as an anti-sieze. We use it on stainless to stainless bolted connections to prevent galling.

If it promotes conductivity i wouldn't use it as that seems to be something like melted copper grease and you want zero conductivity between the 2 adjacent terminals otherwise fuses start melting if things work like supposed to. A dab of silicon grease or dielectric grease on terminals is good enough. Like Brian said don't go filling the connector until it squirts... LOL
 
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