ok coool. that eliminates that
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ok coool. that eliminates that
satariel666
Well-Known Member
But that was with me.
This forum somethimes shows me that im wrong.
Even if I see it diffrent with my own eyes.
Garrett, use a framing square or machinist square and you won't have to try to level the swingarm and determine if the bubble is in the center of the level. Good Luck, Spurs
unk:Garrett, use a framing square or machinist square and you won't have to try to level the swingarm and determine if the bubble is in the center of the level. Good Luck, Spurs
would i then measure the height at the end of the level?
I am wondering if the driveshaft is rubbing the notch just barely in one spot??
Thevmaxrider
Well-Known Member
After reading this thread in it's entirety I think you may be on to something here Sean! Garrett, I have a brand new right side swingarm pivot pin you could put in the left side on your bike to adjust the swingarm if you want. Let me know.
strangely enough i have 4 spares. they came when i was doing my pivot cap buy out of ebay. thanks tho!
possible. can i use a spare right hand bolt and adjust it like a 1/4" to the right?
that would shed some light. i doubt it is it from the noises i'm hearing but it can't hurt. i wouldn't even have to loosen/remove anything, just make sure the arm is braced when i swap out the bolts.
unk: Garrett, you can put the square on the face of the final drive flange (that is welded to the swingarm) and check to see if it is square to the top and side of the swingarm. It's a standard type of welding/pipefitting alignment measurement. These bikes are so far off from the factory it's not funny. The rear wheel is not installed square or plumb with the frame. That's why you take them to an alignment shop like Computrack and have them corrected, then you will never have wobbles or turning problems. Good Luck, Spurs
satariel666
Well-Known Member
That should be visible with marks on the shaft.
Worth to check.
Worth to check.
how do i confirm its straight? measure distance between the swingarm shaft and the top of the level?
there are no marks on the shaft. i've checked quite a bit.
jedi-
Well-Known Member
Garrett, hate to suggest it again but you could test the situation again with a stock swingarm to isolate the problem.
If I was closer I'd come and give you a hand ...but if you want to pay my airfare :confused2::biglaugh:
If I was closer I'd come and give you a hand ...but if you want to pay my airfare :confused2::biglaugh:
i'm ok doing whatever. its a pain, but what is even more a pain is the problem! haha
what would swapping the arm prove? it was working fine with the stock arm on, then put the modified modified one back on and it started creaking again.
i think another good test at this point is the '03 wheel back on (stock) and make sure the creak is there.
i appreciate the offer! trust me i wish i had another set of eyes/ears on this.
still gotta find a square to check that. but heres a new one! old rim/wheel, new swingarm, NO creaking
so i'm at a utter loss.
new rim/old swingarm, no creak, old rim/new swingarm no creak.
wtf is going on here.
one thing i did notice is putting the old wheel on the new swingarm it was a lot tighter. ie the brake stay and washer were tighter fitting. not much though...
but if it was a problem with that spec, i would think the new rim/old swingarm would show that as well.
only other thing i do different is i line up the final drive via the rear axle with the old rim going on. can't do that with the new rim as it has to be in the differential or in the cavity, and if it is theres nowhere to feed the axle.
so i'm at a utter loss.
new rim/old swingarm, no creak, old rim/new swingarm no creak.
wtf is going on here.
one thing i did notice is putting the old wheel on the new swingarm it was a lot tighter. ie the brake stay and washer were tighter fitting. not much though...
but if it was a problem with that spec, i would think the new rim/old swingarm would show that as well.
only other thing i do different is i line up the final drive via the rear axle with the old rim going on. can't do that with the new rim as it has to be in the differential or in the cavity, and if it is theres nowhere to feed the axle.
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Ok, someone finaly needs to say that.
You have a Christine in Your machine :biglaugh:
You have a Christine in Your machine :biglaugh:
:ummm: Garrett, how are you putting the New Rim on the old swingarm, I thought you went to a 5-1/2 inch wheel? Is your old swingarm notched for this wheel? Maybe you don't have the tire installed on the new wheel? Sure is weird. Do you still have the problem of the wheel being too tight if you torque the axle nut to the correct specs? Spurs
NOOOOOOO!!!!!
that is correct.
no it is not notched but the tire will barley fit if the axle isn't torqued all the way. i know i don't want to ride like that but it was for a proof of concept. did about 6-8 miles. could fit a postcard between tire and swingarm but still some powder missing when all said and done so it rubbed a bit.
no, not once sean fixed the swingarm. i also could torque it all down before if i loosened all the acorn nuts. now, if i loosen the acorn nuts everything is fine; ie no creaking.
sean has offered to make a new arm and see what that gets me. stand up guy for sure!
tugla
Well-Known Member
so you cant really get the new tire on the old swingarm, torque it down right??? to check the noise disappear?
think maybe its the new rim adding to the issue along with new swingarm as you said its a little tighter installing the old rim on new swing?
think maybe its the new rim adding to the issue along with new swingarm as you said its a little tighter installing the old rim on new swing?
no not perfectly but its close. but when the noise happens on the new arm/wheel it won't go away utnil the acorn nuts are loosened or the axle is pushed out so the collar is out of the clamp. so having it but against the brake arm but not torqued completely said to me that was pretty close to an apples to apples comparison as i could get.
def haven't ruled that out yet!
