Do you think my problem were my plugs???

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LMAO.........like I am going to take my carbs apart, nope not going to happen.. thanks for the link though I asked for it. didn't realize what it was. Like many times on this forum you have a simple problem and some suggest the most major of fixes.. I like tapping on the carbs myself.......lol because I know what condition the bike was in when it went into storage and that was running perfect.

And since I am selling the bike I just want to get it running good again, if I have to I'll send the carbs to Sean again and pay him to look at them... I DON'T get into those kind of repairs......
"That's about a 9 on the tension scale there Rube"
 
+1 to what 4gasm says.

Also, like the posts above, (if you don't have a good 1/2 day or so to ride the problems out) you can do the peashooter easily. You don't have to do more than remove the faux cover and airbox lid to access the tops of the carbs.

I use an eyedropper and paper cup. I pour some seafoam or Berryman's B-12 into the cup, draw 1/2 an eyedropper of stuff into it, and with the bike running (the slower rpms seem to take it into the idle jets better) slowly dropper the stuff down into the jets from above. Start with any one carb and work your way around to all four.

When I do this, I usually have my small screwdriver ready for tweeking the air/fuel mix and also already have my carb synch tool attached and am reading the synch at the same time.

If all you're doing is trying to get the crap out of your idle, you won't need to readjust anything. I just use that opportunity to make darn sure everything is set 100% = better peace of mind for me.

Don't know why you're selling it, but if it's partly due to the carb frustrations you are experiencing, ......well, I can't emphasize enough how simple this proceedure should be, in order to get a good riding experience back into your Max. Maybe you'd not want to sell it so quickly then? :confused2:


Good luck with this, no matter which method you end up finding will work for you.
 
+1 to what 4gasm says.

Also, like the posts above, (if you don't have a good 1/2 day or so to ride the problems out) you can do the peashooter easily. You don't have to do more than remove the faux cover and airbox lid to access the tops of the carbs.

I use an eyedropper and paper cup. I pour some seafoam or Berryman's B-12 into the cup, draw 1/2 an eyedropper of stuff into it, and with the bike running (the slower rpms seem to take it into the idle jets better) slowly dropper the stuff down into the jets from above. Start with any one carb and work your way around to all four.

When I do this, I usually have my small screwdriver ready for tweeking the air/fuel mix and also already have my carb synch tool attached and am reading the synch at the same time.

If all you're doing is trying to get the crap out of your idle, you won't need to readjust anything. I just use that opportunity to make darn sure everything is set 100% = better peace of mind for me.

Don't know why you're selling it, but if it's partly due to the carb frustrations you are experiencing, ......well, I can't emphasize enough how simple this proceedure should be, in order to get a good riding experience back into your Max. Maybe you'd not want to sell it so quickly then? :confused2:


Good luck with this, no matter which method you end up finding will work for you.

I believe it's due to health issues preventing him from riding now.
 
Thanks for all the help, I drained my bowls and the full tank, in fact the tank is still dribbling now so it's almost empty. I have some fresh gas ( emough to start and get me to a gas station ) and then I plan to see what happens. when you guys say tap on the carbs, where about on the carb should I tap??

If this doesn't help I don't know what to do.. last year I tried the dealers around here and they fucked my bike up big time ask Sean !!! so everyone cross their fingers.. if I ride today and run it until it needs gas I should have run whatever it is out right?????

Thanks as always
 
Tap on the bowls with the handle of a screw driver. Thump them good.

Put 4-6 ounces of Seafoam or the like in the tank and drive it.

Chris
 
I was told that you can put too much Seafoam in and cause problems. I kinda would rather not use anything except gas....
 
When you guys say tap on the carb bowls do you mean where the arrows are in this pic?

carbs_out.jpg
 
It's deals like this that make me want to fab up a sheet metal intake for a Holley 4v....

I wish I was closer.....For the record.....I put Seafoam in about once a month just an ounce or so....and I put about 4 ounces in when I store it for the winter......

A little bit seems to help a lot......I think a lot of the issues are folks taking the "more is better" approach and using a whole can of the stuff in a tank hoping for huge and instant results:confused2:
 
thast why i dont use sea foam any more...

i use the blue stabil......yu can over do it without fukkin up anything...lol
 
4- 6 ounces... One tank... Won't hurt anything... I stored my SV with 4 ounces of it 18 months ago. Pulled it out just last Saturday and it fired right off...

I store ALL my engines with it.

Chris
 
OK Guys,

Here is my report......lol

As I said in a earlier post I had planned on draining the carb bowls and the tank completely and then add new gas.

I did that and I did add about 2 oz of Seafoam, went for a short ride 25 miles cause I didn't have the time to go longer today and it ran goodish....lol

I'm not sure if the new gas after draining did it
I'm not sure if the tapping of the bowls did it
I'm not sure if all the words I called it did it :rofl_200:

But it ran good and the only problem I still can feel is when I take off, it wants to bog down a bit, but not much.

I plan to go out now and take my Carbtune and see how my carbs look. I'm hoping that they need to be synced and that will make it perfect again.

Now I am happy that it is running good again ( not perfect but close ) and now I am going to put it on Ebay...

Thanks again for all your help guys...
 

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