Harley style wheels for the Max

[jedi-]

I'm putting these on my 88 project. These will work perfectly as I discovered today looking at some of my parts I have laying around. NO WELDING , no distortion, no sacrifice of the stock rear wheel and best of all these wheels are cheap and there are different styles of them.
The rear is an 18 x 5.5 and I'm setting it up so it would be possible to mount in a stock swingarm with stock axle etc., although I'm making my own longer swingarm I want to be able to having something available in the future.

 

[PATMAX]

you must have a chain drive bike as these will take a lot of modding to fit a shaft drive set up.:worthy:

 

[jedi-]

you must have a chain drive bike as these will take a lot of modding to fit a shaft drive set up.:worthy:

:ummm:No it's shaft drive, and requires very little modification.

 

[RazoR333]

Please keep us posted jedi,..I'm liking them....
What brand ,..is there different models?

 

[gunrunner]

:ummm:No it's shaft drive, and requires very little modification.

Very nice in deed , did you get nabbed from customs on these or did you get lucky . :ummm:

 

[jedi-]

Update: this has worked out to be something so simple that it is not even funny.:biglaugh:
I only have to machine one sleeve to carry a 20mm bearing and bore out the other side boss for another bearing and the brake carrier adaptor which is exactly inline anyway it's a joke.
This mod gives an enormous amount of available wheels without any welding of hacking up the old wheels and being 18" it helps the gear ratios.
I dummied it up on my old swingarm as per pics.

what brand ,..is there different models?

Just check ebay,they are cheap and plenty of styles about.

Very nice in deed , did you get nabbed from customs on these or did you get lucky

I got busted because of the total price, if I had got one wheel at per time I would have flown under the radar.

 

[TURBOVMAX]

Jedi,

Nice project... what tire do you plan to use?

 

[jedi-]

Jedi,

Nice project... what tire do you plan to use?

Well, I'm a cheap bastard, options are a little limited here in NZ but I did track down some Shinko 003's stealth in the USA 180/55zr-18 for only $112, so I might go with those.

 

[TURBOVMAX]

Shinko's are cool. The problem your going to run into that Patmax was referring to is on the shaft side of the arm. The wheel is deceiving as far as the width is concerned without a tire on it. Once you mount the tire you will have to notch the swing arm for the tire if you use the stock swing arm dimensions for your new arm. The problem will be in that area. The MAX wheel stock is offset approximately 3/8" (10mm) to the right if your sitting on bike. Mad Max at one time was able to shoe horn that width tire into the stock setup by adding a 3/32 washer between the cushy drive and the wheel making that offset more (not good) Even doing that the tire gets real close to the shaft.

Never liked the fact that the wheel is offset to begin with and I think this is good contributor to that handling wobble most experience at high speed. I do know that once I did my first chain drive conversion and was able to center the wheel the wobble never returned. You may want to grab an old tire of the same width from your local bone yard and mock up your arm. You'll quickly see what I'm talking about.

 

[TURBOVMAX]

Jedi,

You may want to follow this post http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=7813&page=7 xschop is doing bolt on chain conversion that will require a frame mod. With your crazy fab skills that would be easy. The conversion will require engine disassembly (splitting the cases) . Geese why can't it ever be easy? :bang head: But no machining to the cases. He's doing a good job of it! Just a little food for thought. Nice work so far on your project!

I spent a good deal of time in Auckland years ago at a glass plant back then called ACI is it still there? Probably has a different name now. You have a beautiful country.

 

[jedi-]

Shinko's are cool. The problem your going to run into that Patmax was referring to is on the shaft side of the arm. The wheel is deceiving as far as the width is concerned without a tire on it. Once you mount the tire you will have to notch the swing arm for the tire if you use the stock swing arm dimensions for your new arm. The problem will be in that area. The MAX wheel stock is offset approximately 3/8" (10mm) to the right if your sitting on bike. Mad Max at one time was able to shoe horn that width tire into the stock setup by adding a 3/32 washer between the cushy drive and the wheel making that offset more (not good) Even doing that the tire gets real close to the shaft.

Never liked the fact that the wheel is offset to begin with and I think this is good contributor to that handling wobble most experience at high speed. I do know that once I did my first chain drive conversion and was able to center the wheel the wobble never returned. You may want to grab an old tire of the same width from your local bone yard and mock up your arm. You'll quickly see what I'm talking about.

No, not a problem. If you research my posts you'll see I've done this before. I made a VTR wheel fit my 1990 bike, 5.5 rim without notching. The answer is shunting the swing arm over to the left which I did without issue. If you check the back end of my bike it is running in the centre.

 

[TURBOVMAX]

No, not a problem. If you research my posts you'll see I've done this before. I made a VTR wheel fit my 1990 bike, 5.5 rim without notching. The answer is shunting the swing arm over to the left which I did without issue. If you check the back end of my bike it is running in the centre.

Cool.. just never went there with trying to make the shaft work with a wider tire and stock arm. I like chains.

 

[TURBOVMAX]

Got curious and checked on that glass plant. The name has changed it's now:
Saint Gobain Glass
Catkin Way
Greenfields Industrial Estate
Bishop Auckland
Durham
DL14 9TF

Good luck with your project!

 

[jedi-]

Jedi,

You may want to follow this post http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=7813&page=7 xschop is doing bolt on chain conversion that will require a frame mod. With your crazy fab skills that would be easy. The conversion will require engine disassembly (splitting the cases) . Geese why can't it ever be easy? :bang head: But no machining to the cases. He's doing a good job of it! Just a little food for thought. Nice work so far on your project!

I spent a good deal of time in Auckland years ago at a glass plant back then called ACI is it still there? Probably has a different name now. You have a beautiful country.

Sorry, I should have corrected one part of my post after re-reading your previous one. Yes the NEW arm will be notched, but only as much as the stock one otherwise everything still works.

I have been reading that post about the chain conversion but stayed out of it.
Basically I think it's a waste of time unless someone wants ultimate HP , drag racing etc. Splitting the cases would put most people off the idea, and to be honest I don't like some of the methology involved.
Attempting to hang something outside IMO will look fugly and a convoluted mess. Again that is just my opinion.
However if someone wants to do it for the "cool factor" and doesn't mind about a slightly reduced power output, I have a solution that involves not touching the engine or gearbox etc at all. It would be for looks and the ability to alter the sprocket ratios and it would be unique. A bolt on solution that can also use the rear sprocket as a disc brake.

ACI are still going as far as I know, not that far from my factory, and we have done work for them in the past...small world:rofl_200:

 

[TURBOVMAX]

Sorry, I should have corrected one part of my post after re-reading your previous one. Yes the NEW arm will be notched, but only as much as the stock one otherwise everything still works.

I have been reading that post about the chain conversion but stayed out of it.
Basically I think it's a waste of time unless someone wants ultimate HP , drag racing etc. Splitting the cases would put most people off the idea, and to be honest I don't like some of the methology involved.
Attempting to hang something outside IMO will look fugly and a convoluted mess. Again that is just my opinion.
However if someone wants to do it for the "cool factor" and doesn't mind about a slightly reduced power output, I have a solution that involves not touching the engine or gearbox etc at all. It would be for looks and the ability to alter the sprocket ratios and it would be unique. A bolt on solution that can also use the rear sprocket as a disc brake.

ACI are still going as far as I know, not that far from my factory, and we have done work for them in the past...small world:rofl_200:

Small world it is... I guess it could end up looking fugly, but that remains to be seen. Sorry to get off topic. But I have but one more question. Some bastard liked my All Blacks Rugby shirt more than I did and lifted it from me. If I sent you some money could you post one to me? If you're interested PM me and we'll sort the details. I can return the favor if there's something you need from this side of the world.

Regards

 

[RazoR333]

Also off topic,..but my daughter plays Rugby, and her fav team is the All Blacks.
I would be deeply in her favor and me in yours if I could score one of these shirts as well.......with the same deal as Turbo,..:clapping:

 

[satariel666]

I've done gsrx600 rear wheel conversion and im in the middle of the zx10r and r1 conversions.
I have an 6" rim and it was not possible to fit it in center without notching the swingarm. Rim will fit without any problem but what about the tire?
You can put an 180 tire without notching i think but my goal was 190/200 tire.
I tought i've made this without any offset but when messured again and more carefuly it was about 2mm to the right.
I have moved swingarm to the left maximum...

BTW no problem here, no wobble at high speed and when you let go handlebar bike goes straight.
Anyway i bought an good used gixer rim for about 50$ and paid about 100$ for the rest(alu soild block, bearings etc).

 

[maxcruiser]

Jedi, you make most mods look easy! Very interested to see what custom pieces are needed to make this conversion. Now as far as the Harley rims, which model rims are you using? Is it the ones for the vrod?

By the way, I installed the rear brake caliper adapter you sent me for the larger rotor - went together with absolutely no issues - now have an R1 front rotor mounted in the back :eusa_dance:Your work is just perfect everytime.

Mike

 

[jedi-]

Sorry to get off topic. But I have but one more question. Some bastard liked my All Blacks Rugby shirt more than I did and lifted it from me. If I sent you some money could you post one to me? If you're interested PM me and we'll sort the details. I can return the favor if there's something you need from this side of the world.

No, problem at all I would be glad to help. PM sent shortly.

Also off topic,..but my daughter plays Rugby, and her fav team is the All Blacks.
I would be deeply in her favor and me in yours if I could score one of these shirts as well.......with the same deal as Turbo,..

No problem, I'll be in touch.

BTW no problem here, no wobble at high speed and when you let go handlebar bike goes straight.
Anyway i bought an good used gixer rim for about 50$ and paid about 100$ for the rest(alu soild block, bearings etc).

Sorry I wasn't really trying to poo poo anyone for using anything else, my own 90 max has a rear 17 which I made from a VTR rim and it was cheap and works well.
What I have found with these Harley wheels is so simple it is ridiculous. About 1 to 2 hours machining will make it bolt right in.

Now as far as the Harley rims, which model rims are you using? Is it the ones for the vrod?

Mike , check out the Chrome horse style wheels http://www.motorcyclekitonline.com/CH wheels 1.htm . The ones on ebay are usually cheaper, I paid $475 for the front and rear.
Also the ultima wheels would work , again these can be found also on ebay http://www.ultimaproducts.com/wheels.html
Basically provided the if the style is available in the required diameter and width, then they will work without question. Other wheel brands will also work.
Eg, check out Jirech cycles etc.

 

[Noxx72]

RC wheels makes some Vmax bolt ons that look very similar, those look like the RC "Slash" rims I've been eyeballing.