Idle screw adjustment

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yea i see the ones your talking about....they say you can run a sheetmetal screw in a couple threads and yank them out....
 
Be VERY careful when drilling, go too far and you'll hit the screws in there, and that might come back to bite you in the tail. If they still have the plugs over them, they're probably not part of your problem. Not that properly setting them wouldn't improve performance of the bike though. The original owner of my max completely gaffed one of the screws and couldn't figure out why it idled like crap. g/l
 
Be VERY careful when drilling, go too far and you'll hit the screws in there, and that might come back to bite you in the tail. If they still have the plugs over them, they're probably not part of your problem. Not that properly setting them wouldn't improve performance of the bike though. The original owner of my max completely gaffed one of the screws and couldn't figure out why it idled like crap. g/l


Put a wood countersink on the drill backwards, so the flat area hits the plug. not the countersink part that should be facing out toward you. Tape works on the drill bit too.
You have to drill way too far in before you hit the screw anyway, but I guess it has happened. Then do the self tapping screw extract thingy. It's super easy. Get someone to help you if you need to though.I should say- It's super easy after you've done it.
Steve
 
Jimbo i checked them today and they still have the plugs in them.....i feel like you do; probably not the problem anyway....i put them iridium E3-36 Plugs in it today and it did not make much of a difference......the old plugs i took out i kept; man they were in good shape...
 
Jimbo i checked them today and they still have the plugs in them.....i feel like you do; probably not the problem anyway....i put them iridium E3-36 Plugs in it today and it did not make much of a difference......the old plugs i took out i kept; man they were in good shape...
Adjusting the screws made a huge diff on how mine idled and ran off the bottom. You might consider pulling the plugs as recommended. If you do pull the plugs, you might consider spraying PB Blaster or something similar into the open holes prior to trying to adjust the screws. Also, carefully choose the screwdriver size.....want to go as large as possible to lessen the chances of stripping the screw heads. Hope this helps..........................Rick
 
Well i got the plugs out and am now 1/2 out ccw from where they were with all 4 screws and it idled the bike up where it needs to be with warm engine....My question now folks; is what is the factory setting? Should be about 2.5 turns out from seat...Someone let me know if i am right....I want to factory adjust all of them, then go from there....any opinions welcome...the screws turned easy..
 
There is no factory spec. When the bikes are built they are set according to an EGT gauge. There are ports to connect the gauge in the oem exhaust.

Tons of guys have found that they are all set differently anywhere from 2-3.5 turns out from lightly seated. Did you happen to turn yours all the way in and count the turns to see for yourself?
 
no i did not count them...most all a/f mixture screws in about every engine i think starts with 2.5 turns out.....from a weekeater to a hotrod....i got no EGT; will have to play it by ear...thanks..
 
I found "playing it by ear" on my Max to be easier when I temporarily set the idle speed down as low as I can get it (and still be running), then adj one at a time. Seems easier (for me) to hear the difference when idling lower than the 1000rpm OEM spec.
 
I ran all the air/fuel mix screws today in and backed all four out 3 full turns..bike seems to like the settings..idling around 900 to a 1000 rpm's when warmed up good.....tried to go in further but the bike idles down then......if i keep going out with the screws the bikes idles up.....seems about right....I appreciate the advice given....
 
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