lowering the max

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jinks

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I am going to lower my 98 max. I did my old 85 max several years ago. Luckily I saved the templates to lower the rear. It took me about a week of trial and error before I got it right. It lowers the rear 3 inches. I will post picks of the "lowering mounts" once I build them and install them on the bike. And if others like my "invention" ..I will mail you the templates so you can do the same.
So here is the question- I am going to unloosen the Fork tube brackets and slide the fork tubes up 1 inch to drop the front end. Will this throw off the handling or make the bike steer or track differently ???

here is a pick of the templates. Theres more to it but it will give you a general idea.

lowering%20blocks%20002_zpsvmenfxcm.jpg
 
Well lowering the front will make the bike steer quicker....but will not affect handling in a negative way.

Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk
 
Well lowering the front will make the bike steer quicker....but will not affect handling in a negative way.

That would be true if it was just the front lowered BUT assuming the rear is lowered by the same amount wouldn't that restore the status quo?

I seem to recall that if you drop the forks too far then there is the potential for the front mudguard to hit the radiator under hard braking. Don't recall how far that is though.

Final point, just dropping the front will reduce the castor angle and will, as you say, quicken the steering. This will make it more sensitive to rider input and the effect of humps and bumps.
Whether this could be construed as a negative handling issue would depend on how you feel about having a more 'flighty' front end (oo err missus!).
The above is why some bikes have steering dampers fitted to dampen the movements.
 
Well assuming that it has stock springs....you can't really lower past 1 inch. Anymore than that...aggressive braking will allow the bottom of the radiator to hit the back of the fender.
I liked mine when it was lowered at 3/4 of an inch...and the rear was still at the stock height.

For me it made the front end more stable because I now had more weight on the front.


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I lowered mine 1" internally with progressive springs and 1 1/2" with in the rear with progressives. Along with this I also have a Morley seat with the lower cut so my seat height is now about 2 1/2 to 3" lower than stock. I love this set up and the steering is definitely much faster. I would say that there is no adverse effect from this as I just did a quick squirt up to 125 m.p.h. about 2 hours ago on my way home from work, rock solid and loving it.

Matt
 
OK,... will lower the front 3/4 and see how that goes. Shouldn't have any clearance issues. Can always change it back if I feel a negative difference.
 
ok then,..well got the easy side done. Now start building the other and paint & install. I used old telepost metal plates LOL
mounts%20111%20002_zpsyvuq40b2.jpg


mounts%20111%20001_zpsqrfwjocz.jpg
 
I try to keep the original ratio front to back within 1/2" or so. My front fork lowered 1/2" more is beneficial to handling, for me. A bike's suspension matches the rider's size and preference, making every set up a little different.
 
Done ! My feet are Flat on the ground ! I didn't have to touch the front end, but I do have to Aim the Headlight lower....about 8inches high.
I used "car" shock mounts and pushed them through the lowering plates and welded them. Red- locktite on ALL the nuts. I have a smoother ride and the biggest difference I felt was "cornering"...it doesn't Fight you. The back-end seems more "planted" in the tight corners. This bike handles sooo much better. Why are these things so dam tall in the first place ??

max%20mounts%20007_zps9qgakugk.jpg
 
Looks like a job well done

No question about that!
Just one thing, Mr. Jinx - with the stock exhaust, removal of the axle is impossible, (with a lowered rear end), unless both shocks are completely removed.
Not a big issue. Just slows down the process of removing the wheel. Might be an inconvenience if you get a flat while on the road., unless you really like to wrench as much as possible!
There is a way around this, if you are interested........
Cheers!
 
No question about that!
Just one thing, Mr. Jinx - with the stock exhaust, removal of the axle is impossible, (with a lowered rear end), unless both shocks are completely removed.
Not a big issue. Just slows down the process of removing the wheel. Might be an inconvenience if you get a flat while on the road., unless you really like to wrench as much as possible!
There is a way around this, if you are interested........
Cheers!

Yup,...changing the tire will defiantly be a little problematic ,..however, if you unbolt the shocks ,you could just lift up on the rear seat handle and the axle wouldn't be in the road of the exhaust anymore.......maybe LOL
 
A small warning. When lowering traditionally with shorter shocks or internal spring kit (for the front) the amount of travel is reduced so that the effective ground clearance remains the same. Doing it this way will not change the travel so the bike could hit into the ground on hard corners or bounces. Still, for the average rider (one up) I see no real issue with this at all.
 
try an aftermarket seat. (morley,sportmax) well worth doing.
I can't even ride a vmax with a stock seat anymore.
lowerd my front 3/4"
rear depends on if the wife wants to ride. if she goes it's stock shocks.At stock height.
If I head to the track it's 1 1/2 " shorter than stock.using solid struts.
 
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