May have found a cheap coil/wire replacement option

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I'll look in a few minutes, but i think you'll need to get the connectors. Just add spade connectors for the other end or cut off your stk coils connectors to attatch to factory harness.
 
Oh man this is a great mod.

Now I can move that R1 voltage regulator from under the passenger seat and mount it where the front coils are not going to be.

Very cool. Thanks a bunch.:punk:
 
Oh man this is a great mod.

Now I can move that R1 voltage regulator from under the passenger seat and mount it where the front coils are not going to be.

Very cool. Thanks a bunch.:punk:
Gleno, great idea! Maybe in place of front coils I can build a hanging mini cooler for a beer or three? What do you think Hubeer?
 
Looking at it, one may be able to use some really small female spade connectors and not need the factory connector. Attatched is a pic of it. One would wanna make sure that they did'nt touch each other. Once would also need to know which was positive and which was negative....(hint, hint....left is negative, right it positive...wink, wink).
 

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What, you have something in your eye? wink-wink :)

Thanks for that. I'm sure I can find some small connectors and then heat shrink them to insulate.
 
Yeah, that would work. Just make sure they fit tight. There woud be a good deal of vibration. The factory type connector keeps it locked in place. Otherwise, should work great. The mod just got cheaper...:)
 
So has anyone been able to road test this yet? I would really love to see a really inexpensive fix to my cracked coils like this.

well- it runs and rides but as I said- have not put many miles under it yet- sorry. Be back in NC early next week through


Can I run regular wire to the coils or do I need that special connector?

I would STRONGLY encourage you to get a set with the original harness. the ends are weather tight/gasket fittings. Water + electrical = bad.
One could use small spade connectors and Goop/ liquid electric tape/ pot them in place. but that will make it pretty much a permanent connection. I used spades on the Max side, but will likely take the connections off the stock coil and use them if it does well in "long term" testing.

FWIW- I used the R1 coils so I could keep it "Yamaha" but the first set I looked at were actually off a Honda. I found that set while looking at the ins and outs of putting a Megasquirt (EFI only) on the Max. lots of folks using the motorcycle COP set ups on cars
 
Gleno, great idea! Maybe in place of front coils I can build a hanging mini cooler for a beer or three? What do you think Hubeer?


I'm all for it!!!!! To be honest, I haven't read this thread until just now, and I'm a little upset I haven't looked at it sooner. This is a great mod, and one that it worth keeping around.

As far as the reason for the wasted spark, Jim hit it on the head! It is for emmissions and you do get a more complete burn of the fuel going in. I'm not sure if it actually helps with performance or not (does the small wasted ignition push more against the piston (in the wrong way) or do you actually see a gain because it helps with exhaust flow?.... I know with 2-cycles, exhaust designs can make a huge difference, and the exhaust pulses /waves need to flow correctly for peak performance.
 
Gleno, great idea! Maybe in place of front coils I can build a hanging mini cooler for a beer or three? What do you think Hubeer?

I was thinking somthing on the lines of this. Just needs some cooling fins to help with the temp.
 

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I was thinking somthing on the lines of this. Just needs some cooling fins to help with the temp.

And then put a small party keg in a back back with fuel line running to your cans...along with a fuel pump of course. lol
 
hey how much trouble would it be for you to get me a primary and secondary resistence reading from one of these coils?im gonna do a megasquirt efi and ignition and am going to use cop logic style coils with a bosch 4 channel ignitor.im going to set up the ignition portion first.would be a big help. thanks mike
 
Do you think these things (or the plug ceramic) are going to be subject to vibrational stress?

On an R1 or a Busa they are just about buried into the head and cam shaft covers i.e. very well supported against mechanical stresses. Same on cars.

When fitted to the V-max they represent a fair bit of mass and would act like a long unsupported lever.

Do you think some sort of metal / rubber support bracket might be needed?
 
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Do you guys think that there would be any problem with running the COP and a non resistor plug or would that make things go haywire you think. I would thing that the COP would be just fine where they are at it is not like our motors are an unbalanced v-twin (harley) and would fly off ater 100 miles Stick em and go
 
hey how much trouble would it be for you to get me a primary and secondary resistence reading from one of these coils?im gonna do a megasquirt efi and ignition and am going to use cop logic style coils with a bosch 4 channel ignitor.im going to set up the ignition portion first.would be a big help. thanks mike

I'd be happy to. Happen to know how exactally to check each? I may have a Hayabusa owners manual somewhere. It may tell me?
 
Do you think these things (or the plug ceramic) are going to be subject to vibrational stress?

On an R1 or a Busa they are just about buried into the head and cam shaft covers i.e. very well supported against mechanical stresses. Same on cars.

When fitted to the V-max they represent a fair bit of mass and would act like a long unsupported lever.

Do you think some sort of metal / rubber support bracket might be needed?

The only support that the Busa/GSXR/R1, etc motors have is a rubber seal at the top where the coil stick pokes out. Though this would keep it from rocking back and forth. Though the coil sticks are not heavy, they would be totally supported by the plug. I don't see it being an issue, but i guess anything is possible. Guess some testing will show if it will be a problem.
Good thought though!
 
:bang head:
I'd be happy to. Happen to know how exactally to check each? I may have a Hayabusa owners manual somewhere. It may tell me?

The manual will have it. Primary resistance will be at the two pins of COP. Seconary resistance is probably plug boot connector to ground.
 
Do you guys think that there would be any problem with running the COP and a non resistor plug or would that make things go haywire you think. I would thing that the COP would be just fine where they are at it is not like our motors are an unbalanced v-twin (harley) and would fly off ater 100 miles Stick em and go

Would'nt cause a problem with the COP, but could cause problem with other electronics on the bike, as non-resistor plugs would/could anyway.
Guess i'm trying to say: If the non-resistor plugs caused a problem w/o COP, then they still would. If not, then there would be no issues with it.
 
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