Morley's Muscle Kit and Nitrous Install

[hubeerjw]

Well, I made it to Cordova and got 5 passes in this afternoon. Cool weather (around 55 degrees), pretty decent tail wind, and sunny. The track was pretty good, did spin my tire on my last pass, but it was also my best 60' time and the only time I launched at 6k rpm.

My first 3 passes were on motor alone, and my last 2 were with a 40HP shot of nitrous... didn't seem to do much... may need to tweak a few things and get some bugs worked out.

Anyway, had a great time, and the Morley carb kit seemed to help me out from last year's times.... gained over 5mph and dropped 0.25 off my time on the 1/4.

My times are below:

First pass: (4th in my life)
R/T... 0.266
60'... 1.923
1/8... 7.428
MPH... 98.23
1/4... 11.427
MPH... 122.1
Launched around 4000rpm 20psi rear tire
A busa beat me and went 177mph @ 8.14

2nd pass of the day
R/T... 0.163
60'... 1.939
1/8... 7.368
MPH... 98.77
1/4... 11.325
MPH... 123.43

3rd pass
R/T... -0.176 (got a little trigger happy.... my first red light)
60'... 2.293
1/8... 7.703
MPH... 99.10
1/4... 11.688
MPH... 122.42
18psi in the rear

4th pass - Tried to use nitrous this pass only had 800psi in the bottle
R/T... 0.052
60'... 1.927
1/8... 7.474
MPH... 98.52
1/4... 11.454
MPH... 122.93
Launched around 5000prm 18psi in the rear tire

5th and last pass of the day - with nitrous again
R/T... 0.145
60'... 1.874
1/8... 7.439
MPH... 97.43
1/4... 11.46
MPH... 121.61
Launched around 4000rpm 20psi rear tire
A busa beat me and went 177mph @ 8.14

I was using a progressive controller going from a 50% shot to 100% in 2 seconds. I was shooting in 2nd gear on up. I have a full throttle switch (for safety) and the horn button to activate the flow. I think I am going to start spraying and only using the full throttle switch and the progressive controller... maybe a 30% to 100% in 3 seconds, or something like that. Anyway, my MPH shows good potential, now I just need to work on my launch.... 6k is where it's at!
Keep practicing, and maybe I'll be in the 10's on motor alone!

Cheers,

Jeff

 

[mnmax]

Was it that busy you only were able to do 5 passes? one time at band camp. well at CFR i got 22 runs in it wasnt to busy. typical is a dozen runs.

 

[lankeeyankee]

5th and last pass of the day - with nitrous again
R/T... 0.145
60'... 1.874
1/8... 7.439
MPH... 97.43
1/4... 11.46
MPH... 121.61
Launched around 4000rpm 20psi rear tire
A busa beat me and went 177mph @ 8.14

You gave that busa a run for his money LOL just messing with ya Jeff cause you can take it :cheers:
Not bad runniong Jeff for the amount of time you been down the dragstrip With practice and strapping the front end down your 60 ft times should drop atleast 2 tenth which will pick your ET up through the run
You have avg power basing it on the MPH
I raced last night still no NOS but this TUE I will post some of my NOS passes hoping for some 620's at around 112 MPH in the eighth
I gave up on the progressive timer thing The VMAX makes so much torque in first actually more than what a street tire can handle
Throw some more juice to it Jeff you should feel it when it kicks in and pick up your MPH by atleast 10 on the soft side
I am going up to 21 23 jets from 20 22's
I didnt really notice the NOS until I got in to the 20 size jets KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON THE PLUGS AND DONT JUICE IT ANYTHING BELOW 7K


I DONT THINK YOUR NOS IS WORKING no increase in MPH

 

[KJShover]

Your progressive is off. You are running light. pm me your number and lets gab about it.

2 sec is a pretty long time when you are running the 1340.

2 sec on the controller was the difference between 8.00 and 7.60 on my Turbo/N2O bike.

Sounds like your loosing on the launch. Need to step up the N2O (controller wise), should be full on by the time your in 3rd gear.\

What controller are you using?

 

[QuarterHorse]

Most imoportant, up that bottle pressure! No less than 900 psi, should be around 1000-1100. Makes a BIG difference.

 

[lankeeyankee]

His nos doesnt seem to be working
He didnt pick up any MPH Should atleast see 8MPH increase atleast I pick up 12 MPH in the eight mile

 

[hubeerjw]

Well, after talking with a few people, I have decided to try and make a few changes to my nitrous setup. I am going to eliminate the horn button, and just use the full throttle switch for activating the spray.

I'm going to try and play around with the funny gas a little more and see if higher pressure makes a difference.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Jeff

 

[QuarterHorse]

Good call on just using the WOT to activate the solenoids. I never ran a button to do that in any of my cars.

As this is a carb'd set up, it shouldn't matter when the NOS comes in, as there is no puddleing of the fuel. I would run a cut off switch at whatever R you want it to stop at though via a window switch.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Well, after talking with a few people, I have decided to try and make a few changes to my nitrous setup. I am going to eliminate the horn button, and just use the full throttle switch for activating the spray.

I'm going to try and play around with the funny gas a little more and see if higher pressure makes a difference.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Jeff

WRONG!!! You need a button to prevent 2 things

1) from flipping over in first gear (no wheelie bars)
2) Preventing NOS activation in low RPM (below 6K)

Good luck with that!!

 

[lankeeyankee]

Good call on just using the WOT to activate the solenoids. I never ran a button to do that in any of my cars.

As this is a carb'd set up, it shouldn't matter when the NOS comes in, as there is no puddleing of the fuel. I would run a cut off switch at whatever R you want it to stop at though via a window switch.

I agree that you would or could run it on a race car due to it having a high stall convertor such as a 9 in keeping the RPMS 3500 and above
Read any post you should never activate NOS on low RPM

I know I am WOT as soon as I get the clutch completly out on my VMAX this is going to put an extra load on the stock bottom end or wheelie your ass over if you dont break the tire loose
I believe its a waste anyways using NOS in 1st on the VMAX even more so if you dont have bars
This motor creates so much torque it can pull you through first right with a Hayabusa hell I am 60FT'n 1 60's with no slick and able to 60 ft in the 1 50's with a car slick
Whats the purpose of NOS on a street tire in first gear

 

[QuarterHorse]

Again, from what I've built in automotive, in a carb'd app, there are no ill effects from activating nitrous from a low RPM. In a fuel injected wet app there is, and that's that there isn't enough velocity to run the fuel with the air in a long runner style EFI intake, the fuel can puddle in a low RPM activation, causing nitrous only in the engine, it backfires, and ignites the puddled fuel in a long runner EFI intake which isn't good.

I don't know of any ill effects and can't think of any in a carb'd app on a lower RPM activation. Further more, the runners on these bikes are damn near straight down from the carb like a high rise, and anything above 4-5K R's should be fair game regardless.

Hell just to see if it was working on a fogger set up or a plate set up, with the car at idle, we would tap the WOT switch. She revved well, it was workin!

 

[hubeerjw]

Well, here are some pictures of the bike after the weekend run at the track. I got the wiring mess pretty much sorted out. I did use quite a few connectors, but I wanted this until to be fairly removable. I needed a simple and easy way to mount the purge solenoid so I made a simple angle bracket and mounted it to one of the engine mount bolts. The purge button is the small red button above the nitrous solenoid and between the carbs. It is kind of hidden, but it is basically impossible to "bump" it without trying. I used 18" SS braided lines to run from the solenoids to the nozzles. I do not really like the loop/pretzle look, but there wasn't much else I could do. I wanted everything to be easily accessable and interchangeable. There are a few wires that still need moved, but it is pretty much done.

 

[KJShover]

WRONG!!! You need a button to prevent 2 things

1) from flipping over in first gear (no wheelie bars)
2) Preventing NOS activation in low RPM (below 6K)

Good luck with that!!

Nope, not wrong.

1) Running a progressive N2O controller will prevent this.
2) Running a WOT switch will also prevent this.

Many Many bikes and car are running with just the WOT switch and Progressive controller. I eventually got rid of buttons and went to this set up many years ago. Not once have had any problems with it. The big 7-8 sec busas and ZX14s are also running this type of setup.

Here is the box I've used on my other bike, and will be putting on the max this winter. You have total control over your N2O, even set timers to start the activation. Progressive controllers are your friend.

http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Schnitz/no05d.asp

There are a few two dial units for about $250 on eBay, there is a sweet digital unit for $600 as well.


The key is to tune the progressive to the track. The percentage you throw at the track at the beginning and the time span til 100% on.

 

[4gasem]

Hey Jeff,

I think you need to figure out how to bend some hard lines...:thumbs up:

 

[lankeeyankee]

Hey Jeff,

I think you need to figure out how to bend some hard lines...:thumbs up:

Dont even go there with the hard lines :bang head: I took jeffs advice and went out and purchased some 5 16 steel brake lines and its been a headache since :bang head: part of the reason I havent been running nos yet this yr
I know Thomas Powell had them on his bike and they looked great and I am sure they worked all power to the Powell but its not working for me
Guess I am just going to have to spend the 200+ dollrs for the NOS steel braided 3 an hoses :bang head:

 

[hubeerjw]

Lankee... I got all my SS lines for around $180... I may be able to hook you up, let me know if you are interested.

Also, I think I found my NOS problem. I had to adjust my fuel pressure safety switch to ground... at first, I had 6 to 7 psi and the switch wasn't grounding. We tweaked it to open at anything below 4.5psi. I think when I activat the nitrous, my fuel pressure goes below that (and basically shuts the system off) I screwed out the adjustemet another 1/2 turn and walla! FUN Juice!

I sprayed it a few times... it got up to 145 quick!
I think I am back in action.

What types of pressure should I have the safety switch set at (when should it shut off?)

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[KJShover]

What types of pressure should I have the safety switch set at (when should it shut off?)

Thanks,

Jeff

According to the spec sheet, NOS' fuel pressure switches are preset for 4 psi and are adjustable from 4 to 7 psi. Not sure what switch your running but this will get you in the ballpark.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Lankee... I got all my SS lines for around $180... I may be able to hook you up, let me know if you are interested.

Also, I think I found my NOS problem. I had to adjust my fuel pressure safety switch to ground... at first, I had 6 to 7 psi and the switch wasn't grounding. We tweaked it to open at anything below 4.5psi. I think when I activat the nitrous, my fuel pressure goes below that (and basically shuts the system off) I screwed out the adjustemet another 1/2 turn and walla! FUN Juice!

I sprayed it a few times... it got up to 145 quick!
I think I am back in action.

What types of pressure should I have the safety switch set at (when should it shut off?)

Thanks,

Jeff

Jeff if your running a safe spread )rich) meaning 4 space in your fuel and now you can set your fuel cutoff at 3 When you start closing the gaps on the fuel and nos spread such as a 2 spread you better have atleast 5 psi
I didnt think you had that much PSI that night when you said 7-9 PSI from a stock pump with a NOS kit
You can get the Holly Blue Pump that puts out a constant 7-8 PSI
My PSI sits right around 4.5 and drops to 4 when on the juice so I set my cutoff at 3.5 I am close to the lean side but the last time I sprayed my plugs have no speckle so I think I am good on the jetting
What jets are you running again

 

[hubeerjw]

Nitrous Express:
For a 40 HP shbot
18 - Nitrous
16 - Fuel

I think I have the safety switch set right around 3.5 - 4 psi and it seems to work!

Hopefully the weather will be nice and I can get to the track on Friday to try it out.
Thanks for the help!
Jeff

 

[lankeeyankee]

Again, from what I've built in automotive, in a carb'd app, there are no ill effects from activating nitrous from a low RPM. In a fuel injected wet app there is, and that's that there isn't enough velocity to run the fuel with the air in a long runner style EFI intake, the fuel can puddle in a low RPM activation, causing nitrous only in the engine, it backfires, and ignites the puddled fuel in a long runner EFI intake which isn't good.

I don't know of any ill effects and can't think of any in a carb'd app on a lower RPM activation. Further more, the runners on these bikes are damn near straight down from the carb like a high rise, and anything above 4-5K R's should be fair game regardless.

Hell just to see if it was working on a fogger set up or a plate set up, with the car at idle, we would tap the WOT switch. She revved well, it was workin!

Very interesting article on NOS tuning. One of the paragraphs reads as the following in quotes
"Dialing in a sophisticated nitrous system requires a patient, methodical approach. "Do not get greedy," says Holley/ NOS. "When you're going from a compressed liquid to a gas, the density changes constantly, and you don't have as much control as you'd like to," says Shafiroff. Go conservative on timing, be careful not to run too rich or too lean, use really cold plugs, and learn how to read the plugs. Institute a nitrous-system maintenance schedule. And hit the nitrous at the top of each gear, not the bottom. If building from scratch, design for high rpm--it's easier on a nitrous motor.