New vmax owner headshake

[Saint]

I cant express how grateful I am for these fast informative responses. I've found a good price on the metzler 880s and you are right, Im running factory exedras 150 15s and 110 18s. the metzlers would be 170 80 15 and 110 90 18. I understand radials are better but more expensive, plus i would need new rims? I would prefer the less expensive bias 880s, but I didnt buy a vmax to go slow so Ill do what it takes to eliminate my wobble

 

[one2dmax]

Get a good new tire and see how that works for you. No reason why you can't get it to work well with the stock parts. Now, when you are really ready for the bike to go to the "next level" in handling then buy a set of the Carrozzeria wheels from us. Radial tires and much lighter weight make it a whole new bike. Of course other options are braced and or braced/extended arms and better shocks.

Sean

 

[Saint]

Sounds good Sean, I think Ill start with the 880s then if thats the best option here within reason (im 26 and recently started a mortgage). For now I would just like to be able to accelerate hard in a straight line without wobbling everytime. I just got the bike last week but I do have big plans already . oh and thanks for taking to time to upload all those youtube how-to's.

 

[donnelly317]

Maybe go with me880 110/80-18 in front. The 90 is taller than the 80 and 170/80-15 would be identical size.. and when u sit on it with your weight will make front lighter. Ideally you want 55% weight on front and 45% on rear so when you sit it will even out? As stated in on of the thread links I posted on handling.. just a thought im not a tire guy just making sense of sizes.

U can use this calculator to see the differences http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

 

[jfeagins]

This last Dunlop OEM I installed had an issue with runout. Put on the centerstand and observed while idling along in about 3rd gear, the tire had the most runout I'd ever seen. My first thought was that I'd not gotten it seated properly on the rim when I installed it. But letting the air out and refilling didn't make much difference. However, after a couple highspeed runs up and down the hwy near my house, the tire seemed to seat a bit better, and so, I went ahead and rode it. Rode it hard. Rode it 3-4 hundred miles on the 3 Twisted Sisters near Bandera TX. Then I rode it 4 hundred more miles hard at the Eureka Springs VMOA ride. That tire had (still has) enough run out that it's easily felt at lower speeds in town on smoooooth pavement. (That's how I first noticed it to begin with after it's installation). Anywho, I also put 2oz's of Dyna Beads in it from the git go. So...........even though this tire was never spin-balanced, and even though it has the most side to side runout I've ever seen before, and therefore, should have been one high-speed wobbling Mother, it runs as straight as an arrow!!! I'm going to chalk that up to the Dyna Beads, even though I can't be 100% sure.

Incidently, this particular Dunlop is going to be lucky if it makes 1500 miles before I have to change it out again - getting pretty thin back there again for sure. (This past couple rallies have been really fun to ride)

I only run Dunlop OEM's because, to me, they/that tread, just looks like it belongs back there. After all, the Vmax is the only bike that tire is made for in the first place. PLUS, I really like the bike with raised whites.

 

[Saint]

so im having a hard time with the 110 80 18.. they only have lasertec in that size... so lasertec and 880 rear? or 110 90 18 880 front?

 

[donnelly317]

I looked again and the one I found on ebay says me880 but the manufacture part number says its a lasertech.
I guess its a personal preference if you don't care if there two different types?? I like the same tread pattern. I Donno maybe someone with more info can chime in..

 

[grimmie]

I had a similar issue when I first bought mine. It had 7XXX miles on it and the original tires. The front tire was starting to cup slightly and I had the same issues at higher speed. Almost immediately I had Metzlers installed. I went with the 120 on the front stock rim and the head shake went away. Now having that said, I changed both the tires at the same time so it could've been a rear tire issue as well. I never had any other issues after the new tires though.

Good luck

 

[Saint]

Thanks for the input, I'm now wondering if the wider front (120) contributed as well.. either way I'm sure new rubber can't hurt...the bike is 5 years old and that's about the max life of any bike tire before you should replace. I'm here to stay so I'll let you guys know if I figure this out. I'll also be sure to properly introduce myself with some pics of the bike!

 

[donnelly317]

Haha yes do it! And yea I think those 120's fit but your putting a bigger tire on than what the rim is really made for which will case it to pritty much lump? I think that's a good word to use lol.

 

[naughtyG]

What's the rear shocks preload setting and what's your weight?

Try a lower (less) preload setting and see if you get an improvement. Also make sure both shocks are on the same setting.

 

[Saint]

I weigh about 165..with backpack on maybe 175..what setting should I have? it came set as number 1

 

[Saint]

I order new tires last night, metz 880s. and I put 13.5 psi in each fork (no clue if the oil levels are correct) but didnt have a chance to test the wobble on the way to work this morning. 120km/h is very stable its just that 160km/h mark. rubber should be here next week.

 

[jfeagins]

I run between 10-12 psi in my 85 forks, but it has a cross-over tube connecting both sides, with only the one air inlet.

 

[naughtyG]

I weigh about 165..with backpack on maybe 175..what setting should I have? it came set as number 1

Number one is the damping setting on the top ring of the shocks. I'm not actually sure this setting makes any difference whatsoever but I left mine in the middle - on 3.

What I was talking about was the springs preload setting at the bottom of the shocks. You will need a preload wrench to adjust these - I believe there should be one in the toolkit - otherwise they're available at most stealers.

Considering you're quite light at around 170lbs, I would most definitely try the lowest setting - that's the least possible amount of spring compression. You may find that yours are set way too high for your weight, and that will most definitely make the high speed wobble worse.

Remember to reset it higher if you ride 2-up, otherwise it may bottom out over big bumps.

 

[Saint]

Just an update... my preload is at 1, forks are around 12psi each, head steering bearing is tight (maybe a bit too tight), and my new metzelers are mounted and balanced and my first ride with them felt great this morning. I didnt push it past 120kph, need to let the new tires wear in/seat. the 170 rear has tons of clearance without swapping washer sides. looks good and will give an update on the wobble soon! (ps. picked up a 4-1 hindle exhaust used and will be installing without a jet kit right away.. should be ok for little while? im up in Alberta, sort of high altitude)

 

[DMAN999]

This has turned into a quite long thread.
From my experience, tightening the Steering head bearing and have a GOOD Front tire will eliminalte the High and Low speed wobbles even with Stock fork springs, Stock Rear Suspension and Stock Fork Brace.
Personally I have always run a Sport Touring front tire (Currently a BridgeStone BT45V 110/90-V18) with a similar treaded Rear (Currently the Shinko TM 230 150/90-V15), but I also like to hit the 35-40 MPH Twisties at 70-80 MPH.
I run up to and over 130 MPH at least 3-4 times a riding season and hit 130+ MPH three times at Thunder in the Valley this year alone.
Reading your post about the cupping front tire would have led me to believe that Step one would be to Buy A Quality Front Tire (not the OEM SH*T) and then to adjust the Steering Head Bearing as per Sean's Bounce Test before worrying about anything else.
If the Steering head bearing is too tight it can also cause issues, so watch Sean's Video and adjust it accordingly.

PS
I run 33 psi front and 36 psi rear as per the VMax Owners manual.
And I have recently Installed the Progressive Front Springs and could NOT be happier with the increased cornering stability.
See attached Mauanl excerpt.

 

[shicks16]

(ps. picked up a 4-1 hindle exhaust used and will be installing without a jet kit right away.. should be ok for little while? im up in Alberta, sort of high altitude)

I live in Edmonton an have been running my marks exhaust this entire season without a jet kit and it's running a little rich but not really bad. I put 1000 km on it and nothing bad happened. I am putting a muscle kit in right away so it will fix me right up

 

[Saint]

ok sounds good, I work in Edmonton but live 15 minutes west, can't say I've seen many vmax's here. I'll run the exhaust as is , then go for the jet kit hopefully before summer ends.

As for the wobble, I'm confident the new front tire fixed it but I wont test that theory for at least a fill-up or 2.
I find it strange that the manual says 33 and 36psi but the sticker on my frame says 36 and 39

 

[DMAN999]

As for the wobble, I'm confident the new front tire fixed it but I wont test that theory for at least a fill-up or 2.
I find it strange that the manual says 33 and 36psi but the sticker on my frame says 36 and 39

^ and yet over inflation causes the exact problem you describe.
If you run your front tire at 39-40 psi you can expect to experience cupping which will cause the high speed wobble you describe.
The Owners maunual was printed by Yamaha for a reason.