Newbie, needs help. 13-17mpg now it won't run.

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Are you sure you got the switch in the correct position? ''On'' is the correct position for regular riding,'' Res'' is used when you need to use the reserve fuel. I just want to throw this out there because it has confused people in the past.
 
Are you sure you got the switch in the correct position? ''On'' is the correct position for regular riding,'' Res'' is used when you need to use the reserve fuel. I just want to throw this out there because it has confused people in the past.

Ha! I'm not that bad! I've pulled some DOH moments but I do realize when it's on "reserve" it's sucking from the reserve and standard is up until it hits the reserve portion on the bottom of the tank.

I've posted this on another thread and I think it's associated with the resistance of the LED vs. Incandescent bulb that is causing the issue. I'll be changing out the LED back to the stock and report progress.
 
Yes, replacing the incandescent bulb with an LED does affect proper fuel pump function. The bulb is part of the circuit. It has been noted here in the forum before. I can't remember if someone figured out how to get around it or not. There was talk of installing a resistor to mimic the incandescent. If you search around, you may find a few threads on the subject.
 
Yes, replacing the incandescent bulb with an LED does affect proper fuel pump function. The bulb is part of the circuit. It has been noted here in the forum before. I can't remember if someone figured out how to get around it or not. There was talk of installing a resistor to mimic the incandescent. If you search around, you may find a few threads on the subject.
I think it was Prez that did that mod Mike?Was he the one that did the mod that split the dash light to flash L or R?
 
Don't know about the fuel indicator, but yes it prez who pioneered the L/R diodes on the guage cluster

Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
 
It wasn't prez. I've done some extensive searching and found veritably nothing... until I found this. and this was the ONLY thing I found.

http://vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=159212&postcount=23

So to quote MaxMidnight
"You can get an LED to work in the pod provided you also use a ballast resistor (4.7 Ohm, 7 watt) wired in parallel to the LED to mimic the bulb."
Now, I did have it working with a High intensity red LED but I burned it out because I used the wrong resistor and was putting too much power into it. I've got another on order and will adjust the resistor accordingly, but until then, nothing. I will probably offer up some for sale if folks are intersted.

So might not be a good idea to swap the fuel light bulb at all. You pull all those other indicator bulbs so you have plenty of spares eh! :) I will pull it apart and put the stock bulb back in the fuel spot until I can build my High power one.

Next thing with the carbs is to sync them. I did order a unit from the UK on ebay (the one with ball bearings) that will allow me to sync the carbs. If that doesn't make it run smoother, I will tear into the carbs and clean them.

On a positive note, seems I'm getting better mileage now. Don't know exactly how good yet as I'm still running on a tank.. I'll update as we go, but thus far I've got about 68 miles on teh tank.
 
The reserve light finally came on. 86 miles now! MUUUCH better. If synchronization is off, will that cause it to not want to idle with the choke off? I still have to keep the choke on in order for it to idle and it has to be pretty fast or it will die. About 2k rpm. Kind of annoying when I come to a stoplight. :)
 
Sounds like ur not getting enough fuel.. jets are probably clogged.. had this problem on many toys lol. Still wouldn't be a bad idea to sync ur carbs before tearing into them.
 
I wouldn't settle for anything less than a new diaphram myself - but that's just me.

If a person gets too carried away with shooting pressurized carb cleaner down all the orifices in those carbs during a shotgun proceedure, you can accidently cause significant damage to the coasting enrichener diaphrams. (don't ask me how I know :whistlin:) That would cause it to be VERY DIFFICULT to restart the bike. Those diaphrams are running over $45.00 per carb the last time I checked. The only way to tell would be to yank the carb rack off the bike and go through them properly.

Carb diaphragms can be had here for 18$ plus shipping.
http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=3988

Its not oem but work. There all rubber I think oem has some sort of threading in it.
 
Sync will affect idle.

Get a set of sync gauges. Set the sync, idle and a/f screws at the same time - after you have performed any/all peashooter or shotgun proceedures you plan to do.
 
well, I've just finished syncing the carbs and lemme tell ya, this baby idles like a dream now with the choke completely off!

I would like to thank everyone that assisted in getting this baby tuned back up.
 

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