Rear Shocks

[TOTHEMAX]

What are the length or the rear shocks? And does anyone know where I can purchase some progressive black shocks?:ummm:

 

[Buster Hymen]

I believe stock length is 13 inches. Not too sure where yo can get the Progressives from. I've seen them on Ebay, but they are always the shorter 11 1/2 inch ones.

 

[gleno]

What are the length or the rear shocks? And does anyone know where I can purchase some progressive black shocks?:ummm:

From http://www.progressivesuspension.com/hd/412series/index.html

"The 412 Series shocks are simply the best value shock on the market today. The 412s simple, durable design means they will be an improvement to your motorcycle?s suspension performance for as long as you are riding it. The double-wall steel body construction with nitrogen charged, multi-staged velocity sensitive valving gives you smooth, consistent damping. A five position cam style preload adjuster lets you dial in your ride whether you?re a light rider or heavy hitter. With multiple options like full show chrome or black covers, chrome or black springs in progressive rate, Standard or Heavy-Duty, and lengths from 11? to 14.2?, there is sure to be a 412 that?s right for you and your bike."

Dealer locater here http://www.progressivesuspension.com/dealers.aspx

 

[Rusty McNeil]

I ran the 412's for about a year before one of them popped a seal and all the oil ran out. Might have been my fault since I took a pretty long ride with my wife on the back and forgot to raise the pre-load and bottomed them out hard several times and some big dips, the kind where the rider stands up but the passenger can't.

For the price they perform very well but if you've got the money an extra $100 on shocks will buy a considerably better shock I believe.

Rusty

 

[4gasem]

You can get the 412's in all black from J&P cycles but the springs are the lighter ones... I bought chrome shocks and had the chrome stripped and then powder coated the parts!

Looks the shit now! :thumbs up:

 

[Redbone]

I am looking for shocks...was wondering if the $$$ difference between the Progressive 440's and 412's are worth it? I weigh 260 lbs (down from 273 lbs) but I should be around 235-240 by the time I will get to ride again, should I be looking at the heavy duty versions of the 412/440?
Thanks!

 

[m-cman]

I prefer the 418 series myself. They have adjustable preload and damping and are available in stock and shorter lengths. Also HD springs are available for the "larger" of us.

 

[4gasem]

The 440's are the schitt! I have the 412's and wish I had gotten the 440's... Go with at least the 12" rears too. I may have to get the 440's as I need 12" shocks now that I'm running the 18" rear.:thumbs up:

 

[jon6.0]

I like the 440's, but I do two up riding with the wife and I also load my bike down with luggage for two week long roadtrips. So I need to be able to add stiffness to support the extra weight when I need to.

Works shocks have a deal called ARS, adjustable rate suspension. You can get that feature added to their basic Steel Tracker or their more high end shocks.

I had a set of the Steel Trackers on my old GS1100E and also had Works dual rate fork springs. I did a 6000 mile road trip on them and it was awesome. I was keeping right up with my buddy on a Triumph Daytona 955. Although you could still feel the frame flexing in corners. Just makes it more interesting right.unk:


Here's a paste straight of of the Works website:

The cast or billet ARS is an option on most Dual-Rate Spring sets offered for Street Bikes and limited utility ATV applications. The ARS system allows the rider to increase or decrease the load-carrying capacity of the shocks without changing the pre-load of the springs. Depending on the application and spring set, the rider can increase the load capacity of the shocks up to 50 percent. This allows the shocks to be correct for solo riding, but still be able to handle the increased weight of a passenger and/or baggage. ARS can also be employed during solo riding to stiffen the rates for aggressive riding, or for riding on rough, broken pavement.

The ARS system consists of an indexing lever and a stepped cup that contains the short spring of the dual-rate. The position of the lever in relation to the steps in the cup determines how long the spring set remains on the soft, or initial, rate of the dual-rate spring set. On most ARS applications, four positions can be selected from full stiff to full soft. Indexing is done in a matter of seconds by rotating the lever or the cup by hand.

The aluminum-bodied shocks, the Racer and Pro Racer have threaded pre-load as standard. The ARS cups for these are also threaded to allow the spring pre-load to be changed. Pre-load is changed by turning the cup to either shorten or lengthen the spring stack. When the spring stack is shortened (measured from the retainer to the ARS cup end) the pre-load is increased. That means that the ride height will be higher and the shock will be slightly stiffer. Conversely, if the ARS cup/pre-loader is "unscrewed" the stack will get longer and there is less tension on the spring set. This means that the ride height will be lower and the shocks will be slightly softer.

With the ARS system, once the ride height is established, stiffer settings for rough roads or increased load capacity are accomplished by turning the lever -- or the cup if the lever position will cause interference with the tire, chain or belt guard, or passenger.


http://www.worksperformance.com/html/street.html

 

[4gasem]

I like the 440's, but I do two up riding with the wife and I also load my bike down with luggage for two week long roadtrips. So I need to be able to add stiffness to support the extra weight when I need to.

Works shocks have a deal called ARS, adjustable rate suspension. You can get that feature added to their basic Steel Tracker or their more high end shocks.

I had a set of the Steel Trackers on my old GS1100E and also had Works dual rate fork springs. I did a 6000 mile road trip on them and it was awesome. I was keeping right up with my buddy on a Triumph Daytona 955. Although you could still feel the frame flexing in corners. Just makes it more interesting right.unk:


Here's a paste straight of of the Works website:

The cast or billet ARS is an option on most Dual-Rate Spring sets offered for Street Bikes and limited utility ATV applications. The ARS system allows the rider to increase or decrease the load-carrying capacity of the shocks without changing the pre-load of the springs. Depending on the application and spring set, the rider can increase the load capacity of the shocks up to 50 percent. This allows the shocks to be correct for solo riding, but still be able to handle the increased weight of a passenger and/or baggage. ARS can also be employed during solo riding to stiffen the rates for aggressive riding, or for riding on rough, broken pavement.

The ARS system consists of an indexing lever and a stepped cup that contains the short spring of the dual-rate. The position of the lever in relation to the steps in the cup determines how long the spring set remains on the soft, or initial, rate of the dual-rate spring set. On most ARS applications, four positions can be selected from full stiff to full soft. Indexing is done in a matter of seconds by rotating the lever or the cup by hand.

The aluminum-bodied shocks, the Racer and Pro Racer have threaded pre-load as standard. The ARS cups for these are also threaded to allow the spring pre-load to be changed. Pre-load is changed by turning the cup to either shorten or lengthen the spring stack. When the spring stack is shortened (measured from the retainer to the ARS cup end) the pre-load is increased. That means that the ride height will be higher and the shock will be slightly stiffer. Conversely, if the ARS cup/pre-loader is "unscrewed" the stack will get longer and there is less tension on the spring set. This means that the ride height will be lower and the shocks will be slightly softer.

With the ARS system, once the ride height is established, stiffer settings for rough roads or increased load capacity are accomplished by turning the lever -- or the cup if the lever position will cause interference with the tire, chain or belt guard, or passenger.


http://www.worksperformance.com/html/street.html

Ok so I give... How much for some 12 inchers??:ummm:

 

[jon6.0]

Ok so I give... How much for some 12 inchers??:ummm:

They have a chart in the lower left corner of the web page. It says they are 13.0 inches, but you can get whatever length you want. When I had them do the shocks for my GS1100 I had them make them 1" longer to get more weight on the front end and help handling.

According to the chart the Steel Trackers with the ARS are $519.

The other ones I like are the Black Trackers/Street Trackers which are $609 with the ARS.

Of course if you really hit it hard on corners you could get the Pro Racer for $959 and also get the ARS on it.

On a another topic:

You are running 12" rear shocks, but is your front lowered at all or stock? Do you drag in the corners?

 

[4gasem]

They have a chart in the lower left corner of the web page. It says they are 13.0 inches, but you can get whatever length you want. When I had them do the shocks for my GS1100 I had them make them 1" longer to get more weight on the front end and help handling.

According to the chart the Steel Trackers with the ARS are $519.

The other ones I like are the Black Trackers/Street Trackers which are $609 with the ARS.

Of course if you really hit it hard on corners you could get the Pro Racer for $959 and also get the ARS on it.

On a another topic:

You are running 12" rear shocks, but is your front lowered at all or stock? Do you drag in the corners?

I'm running 11.5's now and it looks great but I need the 12's for more clearance of the rear tire to the inner fender...:whistlin:

I have ground down the stock pegs and am now running COO's pegs and have also touched down the front engine guard which are also COO's. That one could have turned out BAD if I had taken too much weight off the front tire...:surprise:

I have my SV for the corners but the Max does VERY well now. The front is lowered 2 inches and of course the rear is 1.5 under stock. The bike looks great setup like this, but if I ever get a pillion I will need another half inch of travel...:whistlin:

 

[jon6.0]

I'm running 11.5's now and it looks great but I need the 12's for more clearance of the rear tire to the inner fender...:whistlin:

I have ground down the stock pegs and am now running COO's pegs and have also touched down the front engine guard which are also COO's. That one could have turned out BAD if I had taken too much weight off the front tire...:surprise:

I have my SV for the corners but the Max does VERY well now. The front is lowered 2 inches and of course the rear is 1.5 under stock. The bike looks great setup like this, but if I ever get a pillion I will need another half inch of travel...:whistlin:

How did you lower the bike with the Racetech springs?

 

[maleko89]

Probably preload spacers that come with the Racetech kit.

Mark
#1098

 

[4gasem]

Probably preload spacers that come with the Racetech kit.

Mark
#1098

Basically yep!

Progressive springs come with some short 1" springs to lower them but race-tech just uses spacers.