Steering bearings

[maleko89]

After 2 years, I'm finally going to take the time to replace these bearings. I'm going to order the following parts from University. Anything else I need?

Thanks.

Mark
#1098

93332-00001-00 - bearing
93332-00008-00 - bearing
1J7-23415-00-00 - bearing race cover

 

[turbostang]

do you still need a pic of that socket I made?

 

[maleko89]

Jarrett, last night I bought a 1 1/2 inch deep socket and some woodruff keys. I just need to get the keys welded on.

I did find this picture on the Yahoo! list.

Thanks.

Mark
#1098

 

[turbostang]

That is very similar ot mine, except I only used two keys.
considering it is only torqued to 30lbs, I did not think any more was necessary.

 

[one2dmax]

all that is really needed is a spanner wrench. If you want mark we can always re-adjust them if you don't quite get it right on when you come down to Topeka. I could mail you my wrench too and bring it with you. I don't use any torque reading since they are really never the same to get the right "feel".

Have fun getting the bottom race out. We generally weld a bead on the race and have the punch ready to "pop" it out. Works quite well.

Sean Morley

 

[pageophile]

With all the associated bearing issues with the V-Max has anyone tried going with an aftermarket tapered bearing set? Or am I completely off base?

 

[maleko89]

Yeah, worried about that bottom race. Is there a lip to use a center punch to get it out? Otherwise I'll have to find a MIG.

Here is the article by Eric Harnish I'm going to use to set the bearings correctly...I hope.

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/vmaxshakes.htm

Mark
#1098

 

[maleko89]

all that is really needed is a spanner wrench. If you want mark we can always re-adjust them if you don't quite get it right on when you come down to Topeka. I could mail you my wrench too and bring it with you. I don't use any torque reading since they are really never the same to get the right "feel".

Have fun getting the bottom race out. We generally weld a bead on the race and have the punch ready to "pop" it out. Works quite well.

Sean Morley

One more thing, funny thing is I don't have a weave or a wobble. It's rock steady at 130+ mph. The only thing that feels "weird" is in a curve...especially slower turns. The front just wants to flop over to the steering lock. Basically, I have to counter steer to keep the front end straight and consistent.

Mark
#1098

 

[shawn kloker]

One more thing, funny thing is I don't have a weave or a wobble. It's rock steady at 130+ mph. The only thing that feels "weird" is in a curve...especially slower turns. The front just wants to flop over to the steering lock. Basically, I have to counter steer to keep the front end straight and consistent.

Mark
#1098

I like the damn screw driver and hammer method.

 

[one2dmax]

They are tapered bearings already.

No lip to get ahold of until you grind some into the seat area the race seats against (but you have to have the old one out).

Your bearings may be fine. You might want to simply tighten them up a little as that sounds like what is wrong with it.

Screwdriver and hammer does indeed work!

Sean

 

[pageophile]

They are tapered bearings already.

No lip to get ahold of until you grind some into the seat area the race seats against (but you have to have the old one out).

Your bearings may be fine. You might want to simply tighten them up a little as that sounds like what is wrong with it.

Screwdriver and hammer does indeed work!

Sean

Thanks Sean

Any benefit to going out to a bearing house and getting a set there versus the Yamaha bearings in your opinion?

 

[turbostang]

I like the damn screw driver and hammer method.

That is the next method I will use to 'fine tune' my bearings after I road test it.

 

[one2dmax]

there is aftermarket bearings available but they will not have the built in seal on the lower bearing. Since that is the case I do recommend just buying new yamaha bearings (at least for the lower).

Sean