Sticky front forks??

[Mr. Max]

I have had some bouncy-like shaking for a quite a while now, it feels like up&down movement to the handlebar and isn't the usual woble everyone is talking about. I had same issue with stock springs too, now I have progressive fork springs with 1" lowering and rear is progressive too.

Today I noticed, that frontend feels a bit weird when I pumped it, it doesn't go smoothly but kinda sticks in place. I put synthetic steering fluid to both forks to max. level as was stated in installation guide (might be 140mm from top to fluid, can't remember), and preload is OK I think. How much it should go down when sat down?

Is it wrong kind of fluid (Sean used some kind of steering fluid in that how-to video), wrong preload or should I put some air in the shocks? If I remember right, it said in spring installation guide that no air is needed with these springs.

Edit: I have just changed the steeringhead bearings too, old ones were pretty bad. But still bouncy-shaky especially at around 40-45mph, help please..!! I will thank forum with donation if this gets solved

 

[Traumahawk]

Here was my problem with a fork that was completely stuck.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=41706&highlight=stuck+forks

 

[jfeagins]

Up/down skaking on the front end would indicate a bad front tire. If it still has tread, it might be worth a try to have it balanced.

Your minor fork sticking problem could simply be the fork seal & dust cover fitting tightly enough to create some resistance short of being back up to the top.

 

[Mr. Max]

I put some lube under dust covers, it actually did help a bit but theres something wrong here, what is that clanking noise?! Something is loose somewhere.. I bought new tire last year and they said that bearings are fine, no need to put in new ones..

Turn volume up and watch this: https://youtu.be/3q8LBgggFdg

In video I have front brake pressed, so is it forks that are clanking? Between top and bottom bit? Is it normal?!? :ummm:

 

[maleko89]

Mine did that years ago and it was a loose head nut. Top triple could be loose so check that nut and the slotted steering nuts under the top triple.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[Mr. Max]

I just recently changed steering head bearings, and everything should be nice and tight.. I did torq it down first 50nm, then loosen and then tighten as Sean showed it in his video. Stem nut is as tight as I dared to turn it.

 

[MaxMidnight]

I just recently changed steering head bearings, and everything should be nice and tight.. I did torq it down first 50nm, then loosen and then tighten as Sean showed it in his video. Stem nut is as tight as I dared to turn it.

If I tighten mine to the recommended torque it will additional load on the bearings. May be worthwhile slackening off a bit.
Alternatively, use a spring balance to assess the pull needed to move the forks from the stops with the front wheel off the ground. Tighten the top nut in increments until this value starts to increase.

Also you could try raising the front wheel so that it is just on the ground then loosen off the axle nut and yoke clamp fasteners. Shake the handle bars side to side a bit which will allow the fork tubes to align themselves in the yokes.

 

[Mr. Max]

Thanks for the tips, I'll check all the bolts and try that alignement trick too. Bearings are torqued to 50nm only to get all the possible slack off, then loosen and then final torque to 3nm by manual, I didnt have such a torque wrench to do that so I tightend it up as much as it didn't bounce back anymore when steering hitted to limits. It might be loosen now when I have ridden it about 100 miles, have to check it.
I hoped that changing steering bearings would've cured the bouncing but no, its still there.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Head bearings would not cause the 'sticktion' you have described but can cause issues with the steering such as notchyness, weave and bangs and crashing from the forks over bumps.

The torque you are applying to the nuts under the top yoke is only 3 Nm which is sufficient to remove any free play. It is when you apply the 150 Nm to the stem top nut that unwanted pre-load can be applied.

The stiction you describe is more symptomatic of misaligned forks, a bent station or an internal problem.