Anyone every try notching out their own swing arm to allow a wider tire to be installed? If so how much did you cut away and what size tire did you use? From what I've been reading you can install a 170 with no mods at all, but I'd like to go with a 190 or maybe 200. My swing arm has a couple of chips on it so I'll most likely remove it to powdercoat it anyway. I don't want to fork out 4-5 hundred dollars to buy one or have someone do it when I have all the tools to do it myself. What do you guys think?
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hubeerjw
Well-Known Member
Here is what I have learned:
You are going to need a new wheel, so there goes a good chunk of change.
You should probably get a second adjustable swingarm pivot bolt so you can adjust the swingarm for maximum clearance with the driveshaft.
Some swingarms have enough clearance for a 170 without any mods, some people need to do the washer swap.
I have a 190 tire on my bike now, and it rubs on the driveshaft side (which is notched) and is VERY close to the brake side, so I'm goingn to say with a 200, you will need to notch both sides and will probably have to move the rear brake stay bar as well.
You might as well brace the swingarm while you are welding on it.
Oh, and probably the most important thing is to make sure it is straight when you weld it back up... if you have a jig use it... that is where the $$ comes in for someone else to do it for you. It is a pain in the arse to try and straighten it after welding.
You are going to need a new wheel, so there goes a good chunk of change.
You should probably get a second adjustable swingarm pivot bolt so you can adjust the swingarm for maximum clearance with the driveshaft.
Some swingarms have enough clearance for a 170 without any mods, some people need to do the washer swap.
I have a 190 tire on my bike now, and it rubs on the driveshaft side (which is notched) and is VERY close to the brake side, so I'm goingn to say with a 200, you will need to notch both sides and will probably have to move the rear brake stay bar as well.
You might as well brace the swingarm while you are welding on it.
Oh, and probably the most important thing is to make sure it is straight when you weld it back up... if you have a jig use it... that is where the $$ comes in for someone else to do it for you. It is a pain in the arse to try and straighten it after welding.
Diablotin
Well-Known Member
170 without any mods ? I thought it was not possible specially with the stock wheel.
Diablotin
Well-Known Member
I'm running a regular Metzler 150, but it's good to know I can go for 170 without any change.
So even with a 190 I'd have to buy a new wheel? I thought the stock rim would fit at least a 190? If that's not the case then it's going to have to wait until next year since x-mas is right around the corner.
They do not make a 15" that wide (actually they do make a 200 but even the 170 is not recommended for our measly 3.5" wide wheel). It will for sure not fit.
We have run the 180/70 that is available but the contour is really pulled in and handles poorly. I would not suggest this either.
Sean
We have run the 180/70 that is available but the contour is really pulled in and handles poorly. I would not suggest this either.
Sean
Diablotin
Well-Known Member
it's totally clear now thanks Sean.
That's what I understood before, if we want a wider tire we need to change the wheel to 17/18 inches and adapt or change the swingarm.
Someone has an idea of cost of such mod ?
That's what I understood before, if we want a wider tire we need to change the wheel to 17/18 inches and adapt or change the swingarm.
Someone has an idea of cost of such mod ?
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