rarick123
Well-Known Member
Can anyone recommend a good choice for a valve spring compressor? I checked all of the local auto parts stores, and none of the choices look like they would fit the recessed spring design.
Valve spring compressor
- Thread starter rarick123
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They won't. Not sure what to tell you to get. I use a brake spring tool and do it by hand but it ain't easy!!!! Most of the time I let the machine shop guy I have do the task.
Sean
Sean
hubeerjw
Well-Known Member
Here is a link describing what I did: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=57831&postcount=10
I can post pics if needed
I can post pics if needed
rarick123
Well-Known Member
yeah, pics would be great!
hubeerjw
Well-Known Member
Digital cameras are F-ing great! It really blows my mind that these things have only been around for 10-15 years.... and I can't image being without one.
Anyway, please don't laugh, but it did work.... also having a 300+lb brother in law with arms the size of my legs helps too.
Anyway, please don't laugh, but it did work.... also having a 300+lb brother in law with arms the size of my legs helps too.
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pegscraper
Well-Known Member
Here's a drawing of a valve spring compressor that works nicely on this engine. It bolts down to the camshaft caps and pushes down on the springs. It works with the engine in the bike or on the bench. I can post pictures of mine when the wife gets back with the digital camera.
It's very easy to make. Note that the valve spacing is 1.43" rather than the 1.34" specified in the drawing.
It's very easy to make. Note that the valve spacing is 1.43" rather than the 1.34" specified in the drawing.
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Very clever tool. Good job :clapping:
pegscraper
Well-Known Member
I can't take credit for the idea or the drawing, or I would fix the dimension on the drawing. I don't remember where I got it. I used 1/4" steel for the main bracket and threaded that. It's thick enough that it doesn't need additional nuts welded on. I used 1/2" black iron pipe for the other piece, welded an end on it for the bolts to push on and ground it all smooth. This tool works real well. Y should make one themselves.
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rarick123
Well-Known Member
Peg, that tool is brilliant! Is 1.43" the only change (other than spelling)?
Jeff, where is our lazer machine!!
Sean
Sean
rarick123
Well-Known Member
So I found a piece of 3/8" bar stock, but how the eff is someone who doesn't own a machine shop supposed to get a 17 degree bend in it? Myself and a friend supported our combined weight over each end (over 400 pounds) and we couldn't bend it on the long axis, let alone the cross section.
Side note: I've got about an 18" long section, so if someone out there has the ability to bend this and needs a piece to make their own, you can have some if you'll bend a piece and send it back to me!
Side note: I've got about an 18" long section, so if someone out there has the ability to bend this and needs a piece to make their own, you can have some if you'll bend a piece and send it back to me!
pegscraper
Well-Known Member
The valve spacing is the only dimensional change. Fortunately when I was making mine, I measured the actual valve spacing just to double check the drawing or I would have been starting over. Any other non-critical differences can be seen in the pictures.
Use a piece of 1/4" steel. A piece of 3/8" might be too bulky to fit properly. Or it might work, I don't know. Try heating it with a torch to bend it. I put mine in a vise and used a 5 lb. hammer to bend it over. Quarter inch steel is easier to bend and is plenty strong enough for the job. The valve springs aren't that stiff. The 17? angle is difficult to measure accurately. I think I tweaked mine a little more to get it to fit better after trying it on the bike.
I almost didn't need a wrench to turn the bolts down and compress the springs. I could almost turn them with my fingers. I had thought that the next time I needed this that I would weld some wing nuts on top of the bolts. That would make things easier.
How could I forget where I turned this up? From a link on the Royal Star board. Obviously this tool works on the Royal Stars and Ventures also. The article is a little dumb, but the tool works well. I suppose if Yamaha did make one of these it would be $200.
http://www.wisiwiw.com/StarGallery/res/splash/StarFXMain.htm
http://WWW.WISIWIW.COM/mttech/archives/000066.html#000066
Use a piece of 1/4" steel. A piece of 3/8" might be too bulky to fit properly. Or it might work, I don't know. Try heating it with a torch to bend it. I put mine in a vise and used a 5 lb. hammer to bend it over. Quarter inch steel is easier to bend and is plenty strong enough for the job. The valve springs aren't that stiff. The 17? angle is difficult to measure accurately. I think I tweaked mine a little more to get it to fit better after trying it on the bike.
I almost didn't need a wrench to turn the bolts down and compress the springs. I could almost turn them with my fingers. I had thought that the next time I needed this that I would weld some wing nuts on top of the bolts. That would make things easier.
How could I forget where I turned this up? From a link on the Royal Star board. Obviously this tool works on the Royal Stars and Ventures also. The article is a little dumb, but the tool works well. I suppose if Yamaha did make one of these it would be $200.
http://www.wisiwiw.com/StarGallery/res/splash/StarFXMain.htm
http://WWW.WISIWIW.COM/mttech/archives/000066.html#000066
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pegscraper
Well-Known Member
If you need to pull the springs with the heads and engine still in the bike, you'll need the pneumatic spark plug tool to hold the valves up. This is a piece of 1/8" pipe welded into an old spark plug and with a 1/4" pipe adapter welded on the other end to fit standard air lines. There was no room in my bike for quick disconnect fittings. Overall length is 3.75". I've had these tools for a few years now. I didn't realize y'all didn't have them here.
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I've got the homemade spark plug tool (it's not all that easy getting the old guts out of them I will note).
Sean
Sean
rarick123
Well-Known Member
Updated the diagram with the correct measurements (and fixed the spelling mistakes, just because they bugged me).
pegscraper
Well-Known Member
Hey I appreciate that, really. Now I don't have to remember to make mention of the wrong dimension anymore when I give this to someone.
satariel666
Well-Known Member
Personally i use to remove engine from frame when i want to play with the heads.
Its not that bad when you've done this couple of times.
IMO its not worth to play with the heads with engine still in the frame.
For spring compressing i use table driller, i have some special tool
mounted in the driller head.
Very fast method.
pegscraper
Well-Known Member
Yes, but if you're not playing with the heads, if you're only swapping cams and springs, it's a lot easier to not have to pull the engine to do it. Not much you can do with the heads still in the bike anyway. On the bench, there are many options. Before I made this tool, I used a hydraulic press for lack of anything else.
