valve stem installation?

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gamorg02

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hey all.

gonna have to put a valve stem on the new rim once its done at the coater.

i have some aftermarket stems and i attached a pic.

in a test put-on today, the problem is i can barely get the second lock-nut on.

i removed the original rubber nub closest to the outside-side and replaced it with another one as it had a flange which was costing me space. still though with 2 rubbers that are thinner i can barely get the lock nut on. should I maybe put a lockwasher inbetween the flange and the other nut? how does the OEM one work? maybe a longer thread?

i have a few as they came in a set of 5, but any thoughts would be helpful!

-g
 

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hey all.

gonna have to put a valve stem on the new rim once its done at the coater.

i have some aftermarket stems and i attached a pic.

in a test put-on today, the problem is i can barely get the second lock-nut on.

i removed the original rubber nub closest to the outside-side and replaced it with another one as it had a flange which was costing me space. still though with 2 rubbers that are thinner i can barely get the lock nut on. should I maybe put a lockwasher inbetween the flange and the other nut? how does the OEM one work? maybe a longer thread?

i have a few as they came in a set of 5, but any thoughts would be helpful!

-g

Are the wheels maybe too thick for those stems Garrett?
 
Are the wheels maybe too thick for those stems Garrett?

maybe, its possible. i'm wondering if maybe a lock washer would solve the problem?

does anyone have an OEM rear wheel valve stem to take a pic of? or they could ship me asap?
 
oh also its an '85 wheel if that makes a difference?
 
It might. They were a different kind of wheel so not sure. I don't mess with them often enough to remember what we did the last time we replaced the stems. I know we usually use OEM which aren't a problem.
Sean
 
It might. They were a different kind of wheel so not sure. I don't mess with them often enough to remember what we did the last time we replaced the stems. I know we usually use OEM which aren't a problem.
Sean


you have one lying around u'd sell?

devin had a decent idea, get a non flanged spacer (ie washer) and a lock nut with the serrated edges on it.

so it'd go, valve stem (with flange attached) rubber washer, rim, rubber washer, metal washer, serrated lock nut. that'd leave me more than enough room.
 
we got pretty much the same ones on the planes. end up drilling a little hole in the nut and lock wire it so it wont un-do. is there a place you can run .020 lock wire or even back around the stem, it wont come off. can you find a thinner nut would be a second option.
 
that one looks different only in the fact you put it thru the top and double nuts inside, you can get others that are the other way around, go from inside to out and double nut outside.
 
whatdya think about serrated locknut ro?
 
you mean where you put in a cotter pin? so a casstle nut?

i would use a reduced dimension nut. basically like a nylon nut but without the nylon, slightly tight on purpose to hold. way better then lock washer i would not use a lock washer on that.

can drill the stem low enough and put a castle nut then split pin(cotter) or lock wire
 
hmm. this shouldnt' be this complicated! hehe..

i have one on my other rim thats holding just fine. i wonder what it looks like..

anywho, i meant one like these two.
 

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Rov, he means a washer nut with the washer face being serrated.

Truthfully Garrett, I wouldn't use that style at all. Admittedly, it looks nice and clean with just the metal spacer showing, but I don't like ANY of the solutions we've come up with so far to overcome the lack of adequate threadage! See problems with each!


Don't think you would be able to tighten down the serrated nut type enough to get any advantage without mashing the rubber washer all to hell.
 
oh ya ok, well both good, the one on the right be my choice of the two since its on the rim.

for sure you should be able to go to a tire store and find a few options that will make it easy, wish i knew i have a bunch in whitehorse sitting in my tool bag, and im sitting in vancouver airport D'OH!!!!!
 
tire store will have a bunch used for trucks cars what ever and they sometimes have skinny nut.

we only use one no need for a gam nut, there is enough tension with the rubber it holds
 
with the serrated nut i would use both rubber washers still, don't think there'd be enough to lock it in well though?
 
that could work.

heres the 100$ quesiton though, would you do it on yours?

so you're saying. stem/rubber/rim/rubber/washer flanged or flat/nylon nut?

here is a link to what i got a hwile ago:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/45-D...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

i think problem #1 is as well, see the top rubber has a flange that goes in the hole? that doesn't fit in our openings like that (hole in rim is too small). or maybe i'm not trying hard enough....
 
it should pull it in garrett, keep tightening it and use the washer that comes with it and a nylon nut or reduced dimension nut(better choice)
 
Yeah, if I wanted that kind of valve stem, I'd use a nylon lock nut, they tighten down real good.

But tell me, is it just my eyes or is that locking nut thinner than the top nut....ey? Looks like a reduced dimension nut to me!! :punk:
 
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