Where to get the "good" VMAX starter?

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

texas-ss-tornado

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2008
Messages
941
Reaction score
32
Location
Lexington, KY
OK, have a 90 V-MAx, with the notorious hot start issue. Bought the heavy duty kit and replaced all the wiring, no change. Battery is good, and is still completely charged during the hot start issue, so I'm pretty convinced it's the starter. I see a bunch of them on eBay, but nothing to distinguish which ones are the 2 brush, and which ones have the 4 brushes? How do I know I'm getting the "good" one, or where else can I buy one? Thanks for the help!!!!
 
One thing I might suggest if you want another try at fixing the issue with your current starter is to just pull it off and apart and clean it with the non-chlorinated brake cleaner, regrease the necessary bearings and reassemble. I had the same problem with my '88. Did almost all of the wiring fixes and still no dice. Pulled and cleaned the starter and it is much more reliable. Before, if I rode for an hour and stopped for gas I would be pretty nervous. Sometimes needing to let it sit for 15-30 minutes to cool off a bit before it would start again. Now, it is no speed demon but I don't worry anymore about being stranded. Much better!

Can be a bit of a pain, you have to drain the radiator and pull it off to get the starter off but for me it was well worth it.
 
Here's a starter mod I learned about on the Euro board.

Hi

After years of putting up with my 1985 max not starting when it was hot I finally got round to looking at it the other day and came up with a really simple fix that cost nothing and works like you would not believe - turns over and starts like a brand new bike - I can't believe I (and a few of my friends on a trip in France we did back in May) have put up with it not starting for so long.

Modification involves drilling a small hole in the end-cap of the starter inline with the earth connection terminal on the plate that holds the brushes - getting a short length of reasonably heavy cable (around the same size as the battery earth cable), crimping a connector on the end of it to suit the screw size that holds the wires from the brushes and connecting it along with the brushes (the ones that are grounded to the plate) and then crimping another connector on the other end suitable for the starter motor mounting bolt to pass through and fitting it under said bolt.

Basically what I am doing is providing a proper earth route for the starter motor current instead of relying on the plate that holds the brushes being gripped between the parts of the starter motor to provide the earth route.

The difference is amazing especially when you consider that my max is a 1985 import with the old 2-brush pickup - it really is like a brand new bike starting.

If anyone thinks this would be usefull let me know and I will produce a proper how to sheet with pictures - unfortunately I didn't take any when I did it so I will have to take it apart again so may take a few days to do but won't be a problem.

Cheers

Neil
 
Yea, I know what you mean about the gas stops! I took a 450 mile ride a few weekends ago, and had the issue twice out of about 5 gas stops! Embarassing to say the least! Each time though, it cooled off and then it was fine! You actually have to take the radiator off? GOOD GRIEF! Oh well, I'd just as soon buy a new 4 brush starter and be done with it, I just can't find one online!!! HELP!!!!!!!!
 
Yeah, and nothing looks or is stupider than leaving it running like a semi while filling up! (don't worry, I've never done this!)

Yeah, unless I'm an idiot and completely missed something obvious, I'm pretty sure you have to pull the radiator. All that to say, if you are cleaning, rebuilding, or replacing your starter you will have to get that far into the bike I believe.

Hard to tell on the new starter though... sorry I can't help there.

Thanks for that info Mark.... did he ever work up a "how to"? I might do that next time I pull the starter as I'm sure my fix will only last a couple years before buildup slows it down.
 
Correct me if I am wrong but I really dont think you have to pull the whole radiator just to get the starter out????:ummm:

I pulled mine and I really dont remember pulling the entire radiator.

Oh yeah, I really didnt understand what that guy was talking about. Sounds like he is running a ground (earth) strap from some where to some where but I couldnt tell where.
 
Correct me if I am wrong but I really dont think you have to pull the whole radiator just to get the starter out????:ummm:

I pulled mine and I really dont remember pulling the entire radiator.

Oh yeah, I really didnt understand what that guy was talking about. Sounds like he is running a ground (earth) strap from some where to some where but I couldnt tell where.

That's what I was thinking too?? Can anybody else confirm this, about removing the radiator I mean? I sent an email to a couple eBay sellers, and one came back and said his starter IS the 4 brush one, so I guess I will be buying one from him, 99 bucks plus shipping............
 
I've never removed my starter, but in my Clymer manual it says to remove the draincock assy. Nothing about the radiator
 
I bought a used 2001 starter off a bike with less than half the mileage as my 85. Haven't installed it yet, though, but it should be the 4 brush version.
 
I suppose you could open it up and take a look. I'm wondering if you can put late model brushes on early model starters?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top