Why does my Vmax shift like a tractor???

[decarls]

I'm sure the answer is somewhere in these forums and I haven't read enough but... I could use some help.

Recently purchased a 07 Vmax, I've wanted one since I was a kid. I've always owned Honda's and this is my first Yamaha. It's a real nice bike but I have to ask... why does this thing shift like a D-17 allis chalmers?? (without the clunk!)

The bike had 1500 miles on it when I bought it, now has 2400. Finding neutral also seems to be a challenge when the bike is on. Also, when first starting it and shifting into first, it seems to grab a little but that goes away after warming up.

Thanks in advance for any advise on this subject.

BTW... great forum here, lots of good info.

Donald

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

What oil are you running?

 

[decarls]

Not sure, still has the oil from previous owner who said it was changed around 1000 miles.

What do you recomend??

Thanks

 

[Buster Hymen]

The grabbing of the clutch when it is cold is normal. Sometimes adjusting the shifter leverposition makes a large difference in how it shifts, especially for missed shifts. Also see if you can find out what weight of oil is in it.

 

[lightninggrant]

I kinda just went through the same thing after the storage for winter.
Could not find neutral while running, shift to first wanted to take off, had to use the kill switch. Put it neutral let it heat up. Changed to fresh oil.
(Lucas SAE 20W-50 High performance motorcycle oil)
Bled clutch as per this advice found in the clutch forum.

the best way I have found for difficult hydro fluid is to use a syringe and small hose I picked up at the auto parts store

1. attach small hose to syringe
2. open clutch (or brake) reservoir, empty fluid.
3. fill syringe with fluid of choice
4. loosen the bleeder screw and attach hose/ syringe
5. open bleeder up, close syringe/ pump fluid through line. Do this until the fluid coming into the reservoir is clear/ clean.
6. empty the fluid reservoir of the fluid
7. pump one more syringe through the lines, close the bleeder and disconnect the syringe
8. top off reservoir and close it up.

Since bubbles try to rise, you are getting them to work with you instead of against you.

I used two syringes one to empty the reservoir and one to push clean DOT 4 fluid through. (Push gently till you see it coming and not so hard that it squirts out of the resivoir)
Used a small brush and the fluid to clean reservoir . Sucked out the grime with the syringe.
Found the fluid was dark, dirty and now nice and clean.
Just kept going till it was clean. (Do not get fluid on any paint!!)
Used old table cloths to protect the bike.
Found that I should of done this a long time ago.
Never been better than now!
Just did this on Sunday and have been riding since!
Next will be the brakes as I am now sure they must need it too.
Grant

 

[naughtyG]

Yea if your oil is too thick or the wrong kind it will really not help.

Many of us are using Shell Rotella-T and it's working wonders. I use 15W40 because I'm in Florida and it's really hot here, but in cooler climate many use the 5W40.

Try that first, or try the OEM-recommended Yamalube oil, and see where you get.

Also, when having trouble with getting into neutral, from 1st gear, just let the clutch out a tiny bit - just enough for the bike to roll a couple of inches forward - then try again, for me that always works, even though 99% of the time I have no problem find neutral at all.

 

[sidwin]

i'm with ya... the tranny on this guy definitely feels like 86 technology

this is my first bike with a hydraulic clutch though...

i have rotella 5w40 synthetic. If you have a hard time find neutral at a dead stop, i rock the bike a tad and then i can get neutral.

 

[satariel666]

Yea if your oil is too thick or the wrong kind it will really not help.

Many of us are using Shell Rotella-T and it's working wonders. I use 15W40 because I'm in Florida and it's really hot here, but in cooler climate many use the 5W40.

Try that first, or try the OEM-recommended Yamalube oil, and see where you get.

Also, when having trouble with getting into neutral, from 1st gear, just let the clutch out a tiny bit - just enough for the bike to roll a couple of inches forward - then try again, for me that always works, even though 99% of the time I have no problem find neutral at all.

I tought that first number is the WINTER number and the second number is the SUMMER number?
Id say that You should go with higher with second number when you have hotter weather.
15W is like gelly in cold weather.

Maybe US oil class is not the same as EU class? :ummm:

 

[gamorg02]

i thought the first number was the warmed up weight and the second number was the oil at room temp?

 

[satariel666]

We use to say that "W" means WINTER and the number before W determine
liquidity at low temperatures. Then smaller number then oil is more designed to colder weather.

Number after W determine liquidity at high temperatures.
Then higher number then the oil is more designed to high temperatures.


Thats how it is in my country...but again, it could be diffrent then in the states...

 

[gamorg02]

haha, more likely than not przemek, i'm wrong!

 

[[email protected]]

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/index.html

This explains it well IMO

 

[Redbone]

I would like to see a 10W40 Rotella non synthetic weight ideally for my neck of the woods. But I haven't seen any issues with the 15 weight oil, I just make sure I have it good and warmed up before I start putting too much stress on the engine. I have Sean's HD oiling system now so I should be good to go.

 

[satariel666]

haha, more likely than not przemek, i'm wrong!

ok

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/index.html

This explains it well IMO

+1

I would like to see a 10W40 Rotella non synthetic weight ideally for my neck of the woods. But I haven't seen any issues with the 15 weight oil, I just make sure I have it good and warmed up before I start putting too much stress on the engine. I have Sean's HD oiling system now so I should be good to go.

Im running with 10w40 full synth Motul.

HD oiling kit form Sean is a kick ass. No more funny oil pressure lags at low rpms!

 

[naughtyG]

I always thought that having a thicker oil was better was hot weather, and thinner oil for cold weather. That's why I use the heavier 15W40, since it's always pretty hot here!

 

[lightninggrant]

The manual states for my climate to use 20W40.
Or the 10W30 but I don,t ride in down to minus 10 and our summers get pretty hot.
Only problem is the 20W40 no one carries it.
Went to the stealership and they did not carry it.
They told me to use the 20W50 and have not had any problems with it.
They told me that they looked forward to me bringing the Vmax in,
Ha! they will never see it. Not with great help found here!!
Grant

 

[KJShover]

the 10W30 but I don,t ride in down to minus 10 and our summers get pretty hot.

I run 10w40 Valvoline synthetic blend. I've been known to take the bike out in sub zero temps (rode it to school at -4deg F this spring) and during the summer it hits the 90's.

When I took it to school at the begining of spring, It sat out for almost 3 hours at 0 temps and still fired off. But, another hour, I don't know what would have happened. The 5 hour mark I know it wouldn't have started.