LED turn signals wont blink

jedi- said:

Others can confirm if this rating is ok, but this is basically what you need to do...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOAD-RESIST...-R1-R6-fazer-FZ1-FZ6-v-max-1100-/231156324674

Click to expand...

I bought this resistor for my 07 VMAX, it isn't enough, I'm pretty sure an 8ohm is required not a 6ohm! Any thoughts?

Another Idea I had was replacing the clicker in the factory flasher with an LED relay, has anyone tried this, is it possible? If so it would be sweet to get a little extra amperage out of the bike to power my heated jacket, instead of blowing it on resistors!

You can do it without resistors. You need diodes. They can be purchased at radioshack. They used to cost 99 cents. Price went up to around 1.50. 1 watt, 50 volt diodes work.
You install them on the "idiot light" in the gauge cluster.

Diodes will fix part of the problem. An LED flasher relay will be needed to correct the blink rate. You will lose the self cancel function if you use this relay.

There is a writeup on how to do this: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10877


Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Yeah I'm trying to re-invent the wheel. I'm talking about de-soldering the solenoid and hooking up an led relay in its place, leaving the auto-off circuitry in tact.

Marc85 said:

I bought this resistor for my 07 VMAX, it isn't enough, I'm pretty sure an 8ohm is required not a 6ohm! Any thoughts?

Another Idea I had was replacing the clicker in the factory flasher with an LED relay, has anyone tried this, is it possible? If so it would be sweet to get a little extra amperage out of the bike to power my heated jacket, instead of blowing it on resistors!

Click to expand...

How many resistors did you buy?
You need 4

Marc85 said:

Yeah I'm trying to re-invent the wheel. I'm talking about de-soldering the solenoid and hooking up an led relay in its place, leaving the auto-off circuitry in tact.

Click to expand...

You will be our hero here if you succeed! Good luck my friend............and welcome to The Forum..............

Marc85 said:

Yeah I'm trying to re-invent the wheel. I'm talking about de-soldering the solenoid and hooking up an led relay in its place, leaving the auto-off circuitry in tact.

Click to expand...

Resistors will do the trick. No other mods needed.

It might be possible to combine the OEM flash relay with an aftermarket LED unit and wire them up in series to retain the self canceling feature. I'm not sure this would work but, its worth a shot. You would still need to do the diode mod to prevent voltage bleed over across the idiot light bulb.

LEDs without resistors will free up a few watts but nothing substantial. Not enough to power up heated gear.

@jedi If you're doing the resistor method you only need two, but they must be rated at 50Watts instead of 25watts, my math says 8omhs is the requirement to equal the two bulbs plus the LEDS. I wish I would have done the math before blindly hitting buy on an ebay link. If you look at a wiring diagram for the bike you can see that the lights are in parallel, which is why if one goes out the other still blinks. This problem also causes the ohms law to kick in, if you've ever wired up old subs to a new amp you know that 8ohm+8ohm in parallel + 4ohms @ 12v.. (series is 16ohms @ 24v).. Apply this to the lights and you have mixed ohm issues running two lights in a parallel plus a resistor. 1/r1(resistor) + 1/r2 (light1) +1/r3 (light2) = 1/r (should equal the same as the original lights amperage draw)

I found this Diagram on another forum, for a replacement self cancel relay, assuming the factory is similar it's a simple matter of cutting out the relay and attaching the LED flasher module to the power line that feeds the turn signal switch.

I will be using the ELFR-1 module to replace the relay in the stock flasher. If I'm understanding the diagram correctly the Relay uses the wht/brn line to supply the pulsing positive voltage to the left or right side, from the brown lead. We'll see when I open it up.

Here's the forum link for the source of the diagram if anyone wants to nerd out.. http://vmaxchat.yuku.com/topic/1377/LED-Indicator-Self-cancel-unit#.U3EKR_ldV8F

I used two 50 watt resistors from an EBay seller, wired to the rear signals. Works fine, and the resistors do NOT get hot at all....

+1 this is a great way to go if you're trying to pinch out as much juice as you can.
I've completely converted everything on my max to led(6 turn signals, tail light, headlight, license plate lights w/ running lights), no resistors anywhere, and have fixed all (I hope) of the power vampires in the harness and now at warm 2k rpm I'm pushing 14.7v to the battery with minimal power loss if I turn on my high beams or my radiator fan.

[email protected] said:

You can do it without resistors. You need diodes. They can be purchased at radioshack. They used to cost 99 cents. Price went up to around 1.50. 1 watt, 50 volt diodes work.
You install them on the "idiot light" in the gauge cluster.

Diodes will fix part of the problem. An LED flasher relay will be needed to correct the blink rate. You will lose the self cancel function if you use this relay.

There is a writeup on how to do this: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10877


Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Click to expand...

14.7 is on the high side. Don't want more than that

For anyone following my insanity I moved it to a new thread.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?p=364670#post364670